speed line learning

Worked out a large dead rotten valley oak Quercus lobata the other day.
I set a speed line (SL) 3/4" attached to the main stem pretty high and attached the end to a capstan attached to a pickup on the road below and to the side.
The branches ubove the SL and the branches all around the SL (pretty wide canopy) were all far away from the SL. Some of the branches had to be winched up and away from the trees below.
My problem with the SL was all the branches had to be either dropped down and lowered to be within reach of the SL or had to be winched around the tree and up to the SL.
I need some sort of trick to raise branches up to or down to the SL and then lock them off so they can then be released to slide down the SL. I thought of a fiddle block or just buy another GRCS capstan ($)
Any tricks or techniques you all could share?
Thanks
Frans
 
Franz,

As I mentioned in another thread, I tie the SL as high above the branch as possible, and then just slack the SL down to the branch, tieing it as far out as needed or practical, and lift away--with a Z pulley, fiddle blocks, chipper winch or my chain saw capstan winch....being as I don't have a GRCS and the Hobbs is too slow for sizable lifts. This can work for branches that are up to 135% away from the SL if lifting is required, moreso if not. And the lowering line can be tied on the butt for more control and to use for a balancing effect if desired. If lifting is not needed, then limit the bight by slinging off the SL near the work of the moment.
 

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Hi, Roger;

I need a some clarification about a couple of things you have mentoned.

The 135% means to me the limb which needs to be removed can be, for example: 135% of 10 ft= 13.5 ft. I'm not making a clear relationship between where the SL is located and what is 135% away.

You're stating if no liftng is needed, then limit the bight by slinging off the SL near the work at the moment. Are you saying to redirect the SL to where the work is located?

Joe
 
Hi Joe,

Oops, I meant degrees, for example, 180 degrees means a branch heading directly opposite the SL direction. Actually, with a good high tiepoint, even a branch 180 off can be swung. And if the bight can be reeled in quickly enough, there will be little or no drop.

Re bight control: Reason for having the SL way above the work is to allow lifting the load by tensioning the line, thus reducing the bight in the line, and lifting or swinging the branch. When lifting is not needed, then the SL should be snubbed off nearby (redirected), thus limiting the bight. Otherwise the branch will drop. In this scenario, I will often sling several branches on my way down, then cut from the bottom up.

Hope I was a bit more clear this time. More than likely I'm talking about techniques that many good riggers already use.
 

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