Shelter In Place East Coast

Tony

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Lancaster, PA
Like many of you sittin' on my ass only goes so far. While I could head out into the field and work if necessary, I choose to leave those opportunities for others I work with that do not have the capacity to earn some income by sitting at a desk. Which, for good or evil, I do have the capacity for.

However, this does not keep me from finding the odd tree job to do solo.

This was a small wind thrown white pine.

 
Has anyone successfully righted one of those? I have a smallish one in my yard (30' x 5") leaning 45 degrees. Over the winter I found a 1" maple root growing across the base of the pine, adjacent to the trunk, and cut it away. Not realizing the maple root was keeping the pine upright, the first heavy rain this spring sent it over. I tried rigging a 5:1 to a fence post but couldn't get it to budge more than an inch. Wondering if it's worth the effort to get a crew with more puling power to attempt to save it?
 
Has anyone successfully righted one of those? I have a smallish one in my yard (30' x 5") leaning 45 degrees. Over the winter I found a 1" maple root growing across the base of the pine, adjacent to the trunk, and cut it away. Not realizing the maple root was keeping the pine upright, the first heavy rain this spring sent it over. I tried rigging a 5:1 to a fence post but couldn't get it to budge more than an inch. Wondering if it's worth the effort to get a crew with more puling power to attempt to save it?

I am sure I could generate enough force to pull it back up, but in my experience in this part of the world, when that many roots have been severed, the tree will have a very difficult time reestablishing itself. The tree essentially responds as it would to severe drought stress.

With less uprooting and an aggressive soil mitigation plan to encourage root growth as well as a guying system, we have had some success with conifers of similar size.

Tony
 
Thanks for the opinion. I wouldn't care much about removing it, but I planted it 40 years ago so I have a soft spot for it and don't want to throw in the towel just yet.
 
What we would do in a case like that is to upright it, and install a pair of duckbill anchors in the ground to guy it to, attaching the cables to the tree with bolts like you would use for cabling. It’s a permanent solution, with the expectation that the tree will not live forever, but would live a bit longer at least.
 
Thanks for the opinion. I wouldn't care much about removing it, but I planted it 40 years ago so I have a soft spot for it and don't want to throw in the towel just yet.

I’d give it a shot. If you can loosen all the soil up on the pulled out side with an airpsade, not only to make it easier to raise, but extend the airation out as far as reasonable to encourage root growth. Even if you can’ get it straight, not all trees are perfect. Use a stout guying System like Reach said And figure on it being permanent . For hardware at the tree use through bolts and spread the load on the tension side with plenty of wide plates.

2 cables will be far more stable and lesson the load on a single point in the tree

Also don‘t pull with the hardware. Use slings. Get t it as far as ypu can/dare, then install the through bolt(s). If you are restricted in footprint, we have used spreader bar set ups like a sailboat mast.

good luck.

Tony
 
Good demonstration of that technique. Do you find the wider spaced snap cut works better? One looked like a 6”+ span b/t cuts. Would drive me bonkers doing that for a small tree though, mult tree blow down would take days to just get them on the ground!
 
Good demonstration of that technique. Do you find the wider spaced snap cut works better? One looked like a 6”+ span b/t cuts. Would drive me bonkers doing that for a small tree though, mult tree blow down would take days to just get them on the ground!

There are 2 ways to destabilize wood fiber with a snap cut.
1) Increase the amount of bypass
2) Put the cuts closer together.

The first makes the cut the break less predictable, but is easier to judge.

The second gives more control, but is harder to gauge as species, condition, etc. all come into play.

Do both and you essentially have a horizontal jump cut.

For this work, I think the perfect snap cut has the lower cut in the direction of pull and the cuts bypass by about one wood fiber, with the cuts spaced appropriately for the species.

In the end, the goal is to get out of the danger zone before the tree moves, so what ever method you use should be a means to that end.

Yes, I see what you are saying about time. If I would have taken the crew out there, one snap cut at the base and the chipper winch would have pulled the whole tree into the chipper.

I would have rigged a sling and made about three other trees ready to follow suit if there were more, while the first was turning into chips.

I am just looking for excuses to break a sweat and avoid a hospital trip by taking the risk level to as close to zero as possible.

Tony
 

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