Puma/Viking/buckcat bridge question

N

Nkymatt

Location
Northern Kentucky
I recently got the buckingham viking saddle and I really don’t care for the bridge. Doesn’t allow me to rotate easily and my carabiner or ring I installed always gets caught on the rubber stopper or the outside edge of the black cover on the bridge. I used to climb in a tree motion and loved the range of movement but due to the budget on this go around I opted for something easier on the wallet. I have seen lots of conversations about the liger mod or even just tying 1/2 inch rope onto the rings but until money allows for it I’d like to just put new rope onto bridge because I have plenty of that.

My question is what is the go to length for plenty of range of movement but doesn’t push you too far away from the tree when doing spar work or similar?
And would that still be safe to clip into the rings similar to lower d’s on the tree motion? Or would it risk too much wear on the webbing for the saddle?

I just want to find a good place to start and test it from there with having to make lots of adjustments and to see if anyone has any advice or ideas I haven’t considered.
Thanks in advance, Matt


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Nkymatt said:
I recently got the buckingham viking saddle and I really don’t care for the bridge. Doesn’t allow me to rotate easily and my carabiner or ring I installed always gets caught on the rubber stopper or the outside edge of the black cover on the bridge. I used to climb in a tree motion and loved the range of movement but due to the budget on this go around I opted for something easier on the wallet. I have seen lots of conversations about the liger mod or even just tying 1/2 inch rope onto the rings but until money allows for it I’d like to just put new rope onto bridge because I have plenty of that.

My question is what is the go to length for plenty of range of movement but doesn’t push you too far away from the tree when doing spar work or similar?
And would that still be safe to clip into the rings similar to lower d’s on the tree motion? Or would it risk too much wear on the webbing for the saddle?

I just want to find a good place to start and test it from there with having to make lots of adjustments and to see if anyone has any advice or ideas I haven’t considered.
Thanks in advance, Matt


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I have no experience with the viking saddle, but I think if I were in your shoes I'd start with 4 feet of suitable rope (16 strand is nice- durable and easy to inspect) and tie appropriate attachment knots to the rings. That would allow you to simply re-tie the knot with more tail if you wanted to shorten your bridge or experiment with different lengths.

I wouldn't hesitate to clip into the rings with my lanyard, but I'd keep an eye on the webbing to make sure it wasn't wearing prematurely.
 
You familiar with the Liger mod?
That’s what you want I think. Rock Exotica Tri-rig plates are nice, or the CT ones he uses in the video. You’ll have lower positioning Ds, and a stopper knotted bridge as long or short as you’d like.

 
Last edited:
Thank you guys for the responses. I will probably go ahead with the liger mod but didn’t want to have to spend the extra money for the rigging plates yet. But for the added comfort and ease of use I feel it is probably the best option.


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The liger mod will feel completely different than just linking the two rings with your new bridge since it separates the straps coming from the waist and legs a good bit more. I believe my liger bridge is 2.5 feet or so, with the double overhand knots.
 
I am going to look into options for plates for the liger mod but until they come in I will try some 1/2 inch line for the bridge to find a comfortable length because this is my work saddle and I just don’t feel comfortable on the factory bridge. I tried the lanyard clipped into the front rings and it is much more comfortable and balances the weight better, that would probably be even better once I do the mod.


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