opinions on half hitching smooth bark limbs?

X

xman

Location
Costa Rica
Hey Guys,


Just curious on your thoughts/ experiences with half hitches on smooth barked limbs. Have you ever seen a halfie slip off, and was it because there was no pretension. Others have mentioned that a marl or marline hitch bights better than a half hitch... To me if the limb has no decent taper or nubs, I would create my own notch, just for safety measures, it takes a little more time but is better than having a huge limb blast through a spanish tile roof... Now has the Marline hitch been proven to bight better, and does the extra bend reduce rope strength. What do you all prefer?

Thanks in advance,

X-man
 
When in doubt, use two half hitches with a running bowline.

Haven't had one slip off.

A notch doesn't hurt. If it helps you to keep your calm with a rigging decision, and keep on your game plan focused, why not spend an extra 5-30 seconds to cut a notch, especially over a target, especially especially a fragile and high dollar target?

What smooth bark trees are you having in mind? Probably some Costa Rican trees we haven't heard of.
 
[ QUOTE ]
When in doubt, use two half hitches with a running bowline.

Haven't had one slip off.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree completely with Sean.

I do a lot of Beech removal work and the above knot combo has never failed me.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I use a marl ahead of a running bowline. I can't see a reason for half hitching.

[/ QUOTE ]

My reason if that it is fast to untie. If it is slipped off of the end of the branch, then untied, the half-hitch falls out and the marl will become an overhand knot. Nothing wrong with a marl that I know of. I'd just rather have an effective knot that doesn't have to be untied.

Similarly, I like things sent up on a rope with a 'biner to be clove hitched, as opposed to slip-knotted or overhand on a bight, as I can unclip and drop the rope, not unclip, hold the rope, hang whatever I needed to pull up, and make sure the knot is out of the line.

To me, it is effective and saves a step.

There are many right answers/ solutions in rigging (life, too).
 
On smooth bark trees, I use a marling and a double clove if a branch union isn't utilized. The marling hitch absolutely holds better than a half hitch. Not really worried about the bends. It's actually the same bend as in a half hitch.
I have used 2 half hitches and running bow in the past, but since I've been using the marling and double clove, don't need to.
 
Norm,

By "double clove" is that two clove hitches in series, along with the marling?

When a union is used, what do you use then?




Part of what I like about a running bowline is its versatility. Groundies learn to tie it early with me, as they need to know how to tie it, and untie it frequently.



I can bet that the marl may be superior in holding power, but if the bends are the same, and no difference in effectiveness is one better over the other, IYO?
 
I would be talking about lemon eucs, citriadoras with no taper and smooth bark, like greased owl dung... So, I have never had a problem with a half hitch slipping off, however, I am interested to know if a Marl is not as strong as a half hitch do to the extra bends, and does a marl bite better than a halfie? I would personally take the time to make a notch for the half hitch if I was in doubt!

X-man
 
[ QUOTE ]
Norm,

1. By "double clove" is that two clove hitches in series, along with the marling?

2. When a union is used, what do you use then?

3. Part of what I like about a running bowline is its versatility. Groundies learn to tie it early with me, as they need to know how to tie it, and untie it frequently.

4. I can bet that the marl may be superior in holding power, but if the bends are the same, and no difference in effectiveness is one better over the other, IYO?

[/ QUOTE ]

1. I'll tie the marling hitch 1st, then tie a clove hitch and lock it w/2 half hitches, which is actually another clove hitch. So, it's a clove hitch locked w/2 half hitches.
(double clove)

2. If I can comfortably reach a branch union, I'll tie a running bow.

3. Agree 100%.

4. What I like about the marling hitch is; it grabs better, stays in place better and doesn't loosen up during drop hitching or rigging above the block. I still use a half hitch in some scenario's, but use a marling most of the time.

Xman, in my opinion, a marling hitch does "bite" better than a half hitch.
 
I had a half-hitch & running bowline slip of the end of a square rigged red alder log a few months ago. In retrospect it wasn't that surprising as it was pouring rain, the bark was mossy and the piece was stopped short as it was the last log. A good wake-up, groundman was in the right place so he was fine and no property damage.
 
Are there any specs on rope strength loss due to the extra bends on the line? A half hitch has fewer bends and at a smaller ratio. I think as long as the line is pretensioned with a half hitch it is stronger than the marl line. When in doubt, put in a small notch for safety measures.

X-maniac
 
[ QUOTE ]
I had a half-hitch & running bowline slip of the end of a square rigged red alder log a few months ago. In retrospect it wasn't that surprising as it was pouring rain, the bark was mossy and the piece was stopped short as it was the last log. A good wake-up, groundman was in the right place so he was fine and no property damage.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thats a great point that you bring up about the shape of whatever you are to be tieing off. Any round object is going to give you the optimum griping. With a square object you will have four void spots where the rope is not touching the load. round= 100% grip and a square only four points of friction.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom