Odd knots

Phil

Phil

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Oak Lawn, IL
I'm looking for people to share some lesser known knots they've found useful in this line of work and what application they were used for. I didn't make a comprehensive list of what I consider to be well known but I think most of us here have a good idea of what those are. Bowlines, alpine, clove etc.
 
One odd knot I now know (I like this beginning...) is the Romano knot. It is a midline directional loop which has a much better strength than the directional figure 8 loop.
Unluckily I did not find any info about it in english but on wikipedia France,
(https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nœud_de_Romano)
they explain how to tie it. Pictures only should be good enough.
If anyone knows the name in english..
 
Romano knot. It is a midline directional loop which has a much better strength than the directional figure 8 loop
Click to expand...


The notional concept of 'strength' is an urban myth that is endlessly propagated.
There is no load that a climber can generate that will reach the MBS yield point of a knot (eg eye knot). Of greater importance (and relevance) are the properties of jam resistance, whether it is 'TIB', biaxially loadable, either-end-loadable and easy to adjust.

The so called Romano knot is TIB and biaxially loadable (which is good). However, depending on loading profile, it is not jam resistant.
You will find that #1074 'Bowline with-a-bight' has all the qualities of the 'Romano knot' and is totally jam resistant and easier to adjust to the desired size.
 
agent_smith said:
The notional concept of 'strength' is an urban myth that is endlessly propagated.
There is no load that a climber can generate that will reach the MBS yield point of a knot (eg eye knot). Of greater importance (and relevance) are the properties of jam resistance, whether it is 'TIB', biaxially loadable, either-end-loadable and easy to adjust.

The so called Romano knot is TIB and biaxially loadable (which is good). However, depending on loading profile, it is not jam resistant.
You will find that #1074 'Bowline with-a-bight' has all the qualities of the 'Romano knot' and is totally jam resistant and easier to adjust to the desired size.
Click to expand...

When I translated from french, I picked the wrong word... Instead of strength I should probably have kept the original one 'resistance'. That said, in my world, the urban legends or myths are never about knots... They are not that important in my life.
If I understand right, you consider that the romano knot has good qualities but can be difficult to untie. I suppose it really depends on how you load it as I never had problems to untie a romano. Could be because the ropes I use are a bit stiff.

There is a knot which is never mentioned in the tree world but has become very popular in France in the climbing and caving worlds, to the point that it is recommended as a replacement for the bowline upon the bight. Its name is the fusion knot.
@agent_smith, since you're an expert on knots, what do you think about that fusion knot? The question is obviously also directed to anyone having an opinion on that knot :)
 
Batla said:
When I translated from french, I picked the wrong word... Instead of strength I should probably have kept the original one 'resistance'. That said, in my world, the urban legends or myths are never about knots... They are not that important in my life.
If I understand right, you consider that the romano knot has good qualities but can be difficult to untie. I suppose it really depends on how you load it as I never had problems to untie a romano. Could be because the ropes I use are a bit stiff.

There is a knot which is never mentioned in the tree world but has become very popular in France in the climbing and caving worlds, to the point that it is recommended as a replacement for the bowline upon the bight. Its name is the fusion knot.
@agent_smith, since you're an expert on knots, what do you think about that fusion knot? The question is obviously also directed to anyone having an opinion on that knot :)
Click to expand...
I like the look of the fusion knot. Less likely to loosen up than a BoB but less bulky than a bunny ear figure 8.
 
Karash Double Loop is the first, and probably proper name for the Fusion knot, after a quick google search. Kind of like Double Fishermen’s and the Scaffold situation that we’re familiar with. It’s easy to tie and untie and I like how the loops stay open.
 
Easier for a climber to tie an easier to untie knot, than find better groundworkers.

Anything the climber can do to easy the work on the groundies is helpful. Unless I'm taking hangers out, or similar (lots of climbing, little material), I'm always waiting on ground-crew.
 
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