Crane Friction Saver

Magnum783 · Jan 5, 2016

I have no idea what you guys use for frictions savers when ridding ABOVE the ball. I used to use an old bickingham steel ring 3' long friction saver. While it worked ok it did not work great. It tended to hang up just a bit on the spliced eye in my arbormaster rope further more it out my rope right near the grease. So with some work and research I built this one. It is a #2 ABR thimble and a penstar ring in on the other side. 5' long total with the chaff sleeve over the whole thing with spliced eyes of arbormaster. Let me know what you guys think.

flyingsquirrel25 · Jan 5, 2016

Looks like it will do the job. Why the different rings? As a saver for the crane retrieval isn't really a requirement.
Several rears ago I built one out of a buckingham ring and ring (4' long). I cut the rings off and put the large version of these on and wrenched them tight. Worked great till my crane guy put a giant ring and cable (with some ungodly working load rating) above the ball permanently. Now I just use that.

Magnum783 · Jan 5, 2016

I put the two different rings so it was useable as a remote retrieval saver if wanted. I like the ABR thimble in there to keep a superb bend radius.

Jeff · Jan 5, 2016

So how do you install it? 1-1/2 wraps around the cable, directly above the ball? Around the becket on the ball? Or above that, around the cable, in the space between the working part of the cable and the tail of the cable?

Corbin Tattersall · Jan 5, 2016

Hey there.
I set up either a simple short sling cinched onto the spine of the hook (ball) so its away from the gate and above where the chains attach, with a pinto rig connected to the sling with a mallion which i tighten up prior to lift off. Otherwise I use a small loopie sling with one of those small green Dmm mini blocks.
Only concern with the Dmm mini block is if somehow the spring was depressed and turned then it could open up.

I like these set ups as there's no chance of sideloading a biner, keeps the running rope higher above the chains and away from grit and ofcourse great bend radius n super smooth descent.
What are your guys thoughts?

Magnum783 · Jan 5, 2016

Jeff said:
So how do you install it? 1-1/2 wraps around the cable, directly above the ball? Around the becket on the ball? Or above that, around the cable, in the space between the working part of the cable and the tail of the cable?

In my case our crane op has a shackle he keep installed above the ball. I simply girth hitch what ever friction saver I choose to use there. Thus the reason this one is much longer than the standard. Also the risk of exposure of grease/ sharp objects is the reason I had the anti chaff installed.

Z'sTrees · Jan 5, 2016

Looks good, especially like the chafe sleeve and steel ring. Did you have tree stuff make it for you? If so, how much did it run you(if you don't mind my asking)?

Simpleiowaguy · Jan 5, 2016

Magnum use something almost identical to this for rigging redirect and make them out of husky 9/16 double braid

Magnum783 · Jan 5, 2016

Z'sTrees said:
Looks good, especially like the chafe sleeve and steel ring. Did you have tree stuff make it for you? If so, how much did it run you(if you don't mind my asking)?

Yes it was a custom deal cost About $74 mind you they make one very similar sans the anti chaff. The difference from theirs to mine is mine has anti chaff, pen safe ring, and #2 thimble. Just so you know. I
Love the size of the pen safe ring big making it little to no friction and strong to boot.

Magnum783 · Jan 5, 2016

Simpleiowaguy said:
Magnum use something almost identical to this for rigging redirect and make them out of husky 9/16 double braid

That would be a neat tool to have, do you just tie them with double fisherman's or do you splice them.

Simpleiowaguy · Jan 6, 2016

Magnum783 said:
That would be a neat tool to have, do you just tie them with double fisherman's or do you splice them.

I splice them. Husky splices super easy and is pretty durable. I use a large ring and a rigging ring. A carabiner will pull through the rigging ring so you can just pull the redirect to you and throw it in the next spot.

The_Archdruid · Jan 6, 2016

I haven't found any improvement over the old Norm Hall or Todd Kramer approach with a big shackle and a carabiner keeping everything lined up (also impossible for the shackle pin to rotate out). I have a few different length friction savers with steel rings and select whatever length sits well against the ball or slightly below, depending on the size of the crane and the terminal configuration.

The Norm Hall version is good for normal use, but if the splice is sticking, throw the carabiner in the loop that holds the small ring, a la Todd Kramer.

The_Archdruid · Jan 6, 2016

Mark Adams did a piece, back in the day, demonstrating this. http://treebuzz.com/pdf/mar07-cb.pdf

Magnum783 · Jan 7, 2016

Much thanks for the article and I agree totally with you thoughts on simple and multiple lengths. I only had the one old buck and it was damaged so I needed a new one. So I built this. Oh I have a Usaver but didn't want that near grease.

Magnum783 · Jan 7, 2016

Simpleiowaguy said:
I splice them. Husky splices super easy and is pretty durable. I use a large ring and a rigging ring. A carabiner will pull through the rigging ring so you can just pull the redirect to you and throw it in the next spot.

Gotta learn to splice that's all there is to it.