BC1400 Infeed roller gap/spread. Tightening issue.

burtonbc1400

burtonbc1400

Participating member
Location
Enderby, BC
Hi, This is my first post.
I recently bought a Vermeer BC1400, my first chipper. It sat around for a while before I bought it and I had to solve some problems to get it running and chipping. It does chip now!
But, I brought it to a job and was chipping some pretty big stems, probably max capacity 14".

Now, the (vertical) infeed rollers have about a 3" gap between them and I can't get them to spring together again.

I tightened the springs to max tightness, and cleaned under the infeed rollers as best as I could.

The machine still chips OK, but I would prefer the infeed rollers to be closed so they can grab small branches, and just to keep it in proper order.

Can anyone help me with advice or troubleshooting tips? How do I tighten these rollers together again?

Thanks!
 
I am not familiar with this machine, but double check that the top and bottom of the rollers are clear of debris and moving parts are greased. Someone who has used that setup will speak up with more advice, good luck.
 
In addition to what DTS said above, when you have the springs off, use a spray lube like WD40 to lubricate the slides that the rollers move along. Spray it really well. The gap is usually cause by a build up of junk on top of the roller slides, which doesn't allow them to move through their full range of motion.

When the springs are off you can manually move the rollers back and forth and you should be able to see the gunk that is preventing the movement. Clean it out and you should be good to go.

Good luck
 
@burtonbc1400; Welcome to the TreeBuzz forum! I think you are going to like it here! Great first post!

Please read the previous three posts for answers to your original question, if you have not done so already. A handy tip about using this forum is that using the "@" symbol in front of someone's avatar name, with no spaces in between, will generate a notice to that individual that they have been "mentioned" in a post, along with a link that they can click on that will bring them back to the thread. Which is why I used it on you in this thread, just in case you forgot where it was, or the thread gets buried under others.

I hope you have a good time here, and I look forward to reading more from you. Congratulations on getting your new chipper!

Tim
 
Thanks everyone. I took the springs off again and pulled the rollers apart and sprayed it more. It seems to get somewhat closer. When I'm operating it anyways, but right now there's a gap again. I think the springs might not be as strong as they should be anymore. Good enough for now I'll work it, and look into getting newer springs.
 
Once again I am not familiar with this model, but is there an adjustment for the springs? My woodchuck has horizontal rollers and the upper one has springs that you tighten down a nut to adjust the tension. Maybe the bracket that the spring hooks to on one end or the other will have an adjuster?
 
There are adjustments for the springs. There are several holes to hook into, which spread the springs further apart. I'm in the most spread apart holes for the springs.
 
burtonbc1400 said:
Thanks everyone. I took the springs off again and pulled the rollers apart and sprayed it more. It seems to get somewhat closer. When I'm operating it anyways, but right now there's a gap again. I think the springs might not be as strong as they should be anymore. Good enough for now I'll work it, and look into getting newer springs.
Click to expand...
Bring it to the dealership and have the pros take a look and get the job done correct
 
Reliable tree man said:
In addition to what DTS said above, when you have the springs off, use a spray lube like WD40 to lubricate the slides that the rollers move along. Spray it really well. The gap is usually cause by a build up of junk on top of the roller slides, which doesn't allow them to move through their full range of motion.

When the springs are off you can manually move the rollers back and forth and you should be able to see the gunk that is preventing the movement. Clean it out and you should be good to go.

Good luck
Click to expand...
U can use a vacuum to get the majority of debri .then Use a pressure washer to clean it ,And a good lube once it’s dry
 
Reliable tree man said:
Being that you are a service tech, why don’t you say which lubricant is best instead of just telling him to use a better one. The sticker on our machine actually says wd-40.
Click to expand...


A long while back, the Vermeer dealer used Vermeer branded spray lube, IIRC, FWIW. I got a can in the shop, still.



https://my.vermeer.com/custmain/user/loginRegisterOptions.jsf?wec-appid=APPL&wec-locale=en_US

Manuals, etc, etc.



You might want to pay for an inspection. Get a list of recommended work to bring it to serviceable, not rebuilt, condition.

Savings by avoiding breakdowns with a machine you've just got running and chipping may pay for any dealer work.


I think the 1400s had some problems.



Vertical axis feed-wheels? They jam up in certain situations, and there is the 'in-the-know' way of avoiding and clearing these jams. My friend had a 1250 that I jammed, once.
 
BTW, congrats on the truck and chipper.

I mention down time, because I bought a fixer-upper dirt cheap when I started. It ran, but ended up needing this and that, messing around on job-sites, the occasional rental chipper. If I had the money ahead of time, some I could have done things preventatively, and saved headaches and delays.

I've had the same chipper since 2007, which i figured would be a stepping-stone, and still do, but when its reliable and hungry... runs better than ever. Not quite as hungry as a 1400!


Have you maintained chippers before? Anvil-gap and knife changes? Greasing, etc?
 
@southsoundtree Thanks
This is the first chipper i've had or maintained, used rentals often enough.

The rad fan was brittle and broke a fin, so i replaced it, replaced the fan drive belts, pulled the rad fixed the fins (60% were bent, now 10%), flushed it. The hydraulic fluid tank had 3/4" ice block at the bottom (explains why it didn't work this december) so pulled that cleaned it and replaced the fluid, put gasket sealer on it and methyl hydrate in the tank to keep the lines from freezing. like i said the tension springs made a difference for sure.

i guess i'll sharpen the knives this season too? The rear hood is someone bent, so I've been heating and hammering that back into shape at my buddy's place.
also there's a grease nipple i can't find, i think it's something to do with the clutch, i'll double check.

i got it for $7500 CAD, plus costs associated with purchase (travel, out of province registration etc.). its a 2002 and has 36xx hrs. Afer I bought it, I saw a BC1500 with albeit less hours for 26000CAD, so I think I'm OK. I can look into getting a different one when my business is more established, I'm going into year 3.
 
Just pop the blades out now before you need them and send them out to get sharpened if they are still in good shape and within spec...then they'll be ready when you are. It's pocket change to have done, even correctly...while youre at it, pull off anvil and see if its rounded or knicked.

May also want to make sure drum belt is in good shape and tight, she'll be hungry, which can lead to squealing belts.
 
craneguy1 said:
Just pop the blades out now before you need them and send them out to get sharpened if they are still in good shape and within spec...then they'll be ready when you are. It's pocket change to have done, even correctly...while youre at it, pull off anvil and see if its rounded or knicked.

May also want to make sure drum belt is in good shape and tight, she'll be hungry, which can lead to squealing belts.
Click to expand...
What he said, and get new bolts. The can be used x-amount of knife flips before needing replacement so how old are the ones in there...? Each chipper model has varying torque specs for the bolts too so double check what yours is.
 
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