Basal Anchors

RyTheTreeGuy

RyTheTreeGuy

Branched out member
Location
Canada
Hey guys, I am brand new to SRT and am looking for some insight on base tying. I did my first climb today on single rope with a rope wrench and HH pulley. The climb went fairly well considering...well it is definitely not Ddrt. I used a tensionless hitch in an alpine butterfly for my base anchor and was wondering if this is a good system. My thoughts were any dolt could belay me down if necessary.

Thanks for any and all insight
 
Normally I set my line so that I can pull only enough tail through the tip that is needed to work the tree. When doing this, for the base anchor I tie a running bowline with a bight, and it is recommended to finish the tail of the bowline in a way that will prevent it from slipping from load/unload cycles, for example tying another knot. I have given up with lowerable systems because I have to climb fast and also work with many who I don't want to trust to figure it out and lower me.
 
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Many seem to like more complex base tie systems. I like to leave an alpine butterfly above whatever I use to tie to the tree. A smart person with another rope, or the tail of mine could probably rescue me. For the non-thinking types, I'll take my chances in the tree.

For me I'm much more worried about simple security that doesn't move and can take a reasonable load and shock load. I sometimes even switch to a cinched TIP once I'm in the tree, which will defeat the lowerable functions anyway. I'm sure the more complex, and maybe better systems will be described soon.
 
Base ties have morphed into systems that are over-complicated. When the chips are down and a rescue lower might be needed I fear that the victim will
Be dropped or left hanging

When I was working on a base anchor I would test them with non-climbers. Before doing the job I'd let the person know that I'll need some help at the end. I'd descend to about three feet from
The ground then tell them that I just got hurt and they needed to lower me. A bit of play acting. If they figured out my rescue easily I kept it
 
When I'm using the full length of my rope, backed Running Bowline. When I'm using part of the length of my rope Alpine Butterfly with Singing Tree Quickie locking the AB eye to the standing end of the rope, end of the Quickie slic pin facing out as recommended.
-AJ
 
I use a base tie for 99% of all my climbing. A Running Bowline with a Yosemite finish gets used most of the time. If I need to shorten the climbing line substantially then an Alpine Butterfly with a 3/8" Maillon oval gets used. I, personally, don't give much thought or effort into making it a rescue system. Safety, simplicity and a fast setup give me the most function and peace of mind.
Also, if there is any way possible, and there usually is, I will not tie onto the base of the tree I'm working on. Keeping the base end of the climbing line away from the work zone is a strong safety consideration. If the tie must be to the base of the tree being worked on, redirecting it away from the trunk is a very good idea.
 
Or

clipping it back to your bridge, inside your lanyard's "circle", keeping both loaded strands close, as in DDRT.

I did both, yesterday.


It's an extra measure of safety to be lowerable.
If you think you are about to do something where you might need that feature, STOP!!!!
DON'T!!!!
The base-tie is for unforeseen things, like a mother swarm.

Best bet is being able to bomb out of the tree to the ground ASAP.
 
Something else to consider when using knots in general and base ties in particular. Many climbers have gone to super-static ropes. They may be fun for banging up a single rope but many of them tend to have less knot-ability then the softer and more pliable standard tree climbing ropes. A base tie, set up correctly will not be under much load and the knot, if that is what you use, will be under even less. I have seen knots in stiff lines loosen from small movements when not under a constant load.
 
Srt's low stretch ropes could benefit with a Yates Screamer integrated.

I with have lots of rope in the system, or am redirected lot enough to really see the redirection branch.

Always test before climbing!!
 
I thought about adding a Screamer too. Actually bought one and incorporated it because I liked the Cool Component concept too

Then I started to do some math.

Since arbos learn from day one there is usually very little slack in a climbers system.

What I found was that the climber would have to use a frictionless anchor point, super low stretch rope, a direct line from TIP down to the anchor...and the biggest variable...a long fall

Like David says...a base anchor has very little load on it
 
Levi.CO said:
I heard a good, funny (funny because apparently no one was injured) story recently about a bicyclist running into an anchor leg which was diverted from the climbing tree to another, across a bike path... itcc I think it was.....
Click to expand...

See, yet another reason climbers shouldn't be smoking cannabis during the day ;-) [joke] Seriously though, a climber has to be pretty distracted to set a rope across a path or throughfare in a public place.
-AJ
 
True, this story was told to me from a friend who traveled to work with some of the most renowned heads in the scene. He was surprised, I think, to see this happen at itcc, maybe it was natcc. Maybe it never happened! :sorprendido3: The lesson though, I think, is to consider unintentional clothes line effect from diverting base anchors.... or something.:coffe:
 
I just did a base-tie on a cedar removal for a builder. By not having it redirected, I could drop limbs every which way. I had choked my base-tie as high as I could fling it up the base of the tree. When I came down, I could stand on the pile of limbs and reach the base-tie.


Having the base-tie higher protects it (more out of reach) from groundies, and chunks of wood. 6' is better than 2' off the ground.
 
southsoundtree said:
I just did a base-tie on a cedar removal for a builder. By not having it redirected, I could drop limbs every which way. I had choked my base-tie as high as I could fling it up the base of the tree. When I came down, I could stand on the pile of limbs and reach the base-tie.


Having the base-tie higher protects it (more out of reach) from groundies, and chunks of wood. 6' is better than 2' off the ground.
Click to expand...

Nice! I like moving the base tie up in the tree, broadleaf or conifer depending on the situation and goals of the job. Bright colored rope is helpful though, especially while limbing up a conifer ;-) Of course.
 
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