adjustable speed line slings

If I'm working with limb wood I have a selection of 1" tubular nylon slings in one foot increments. They're color coded. To keep them neat I sew a tight eye about an inch from the sewn overlap. Just a couple of passes back and forth. Then I run a row of stitching with a very long stitch up one side and back down the other. I make an eye big enough to easily pass the biner through. The stitching is just to make a neat eye n eye sling not for strength.

To adjust the length I'll just wrap the large eye end around before I choke it off.

The nylon slings are inexpensive and durable...strong too.
 
If I'm working with limb wood I have a selection of 1" tubular nylon slings in one foot increments. They're color coded. To keep them neat I sew a tight eye about an inch from the sewn overlap. Just a couple of passes back and forth. Then I run a row of stitching with a very long stitch up one side and back down the other. I make an eye big enough to easily pass the biner through. The stitching is just to make a neat eye n eye sling not for strength.

To adjust the length I'll just wrap the large eye end around before I choke it off.

The nylon slings are inexpensive and durable...strong too.
I was very indescricptive with my op . I have a whole slew of the nylon loops like your talking about Tom. Use them frequently and I get what your saying about the adjustment process I think..I'll choke limb then take up access if there is some with a marl then clip biner onto sppedline , have ground tension up line and its perfect 95% of the time I think . Just seem to get that bit of slack that devolps in the sling in certain setup that transfers to excess drop I'm trying to avoid and readjusting can be less than fun when the mainlines tight and you lose a bit on the sling. I've thought up a sling useing a Blake's hitch on a loop with a floating biner on the end to choke off limb . I'll take a pic and maybe someone can enlighten me on the advantages and limitations of the system . If their so kind as to do so . Thanks Tom.
 
14198000716250.webp something quick , I just threw together for an idea . lmk what you think. Oh yeah and it should be the other way around hitch on side your cutting duhhhh :rayos:
 
14198005788041.webp or would it ,?? Use your imagination dealing with this scenario . it is of course a spoof ,but I did just get a go pro for Xmas I'd like to try it . I thought about useing a prussik on a single line as well . looking for an option for and some ideas . Just wacked a good climb line some months back that was near new and I'm trying to give it a new life for some light rigging duty possible.
 
Clever idea.

Another way to gain some height is to rig two slings to the piece. Choke them as far apart as possible. That way when you send it flying it stays more horizontal which can gain precious height.
 
If you don't like hauling 100 different slings of different colours, and it works better with a haul back system, I use a whoopie. A 4 or 6' 1/2" tenex sling (I have a 6') can clear a lot of limb wood, tops, etc. Then I have a 5/8" dead eye sling 10', or to stay on theme a 3/4" whoopie 12' (if I remember right).

Your adjustable eye gets binered, shackled etc to your zip line and your dead eye with or without a biner/shackle gets choked to your limb, block,etc. This system is super easy to adjust and fit to so many lengths.

This system I find works best on poplars, ash etc. If the spruce is large enough with enough space this also works and I will some times carry the 1" nylon loops for sending down bouquets and then the whoopie is just a single loop for a tether.

Hope this helps someone if even just a little
 

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