Compact Bulldog Bone

Something Paul Cox has also recommended previously to me, is a dab of epoxy on the cotters would be a good idea. I decided that I would rather see what was going on with the cotters but may have to reconsider.
 
In my above photo the cotter pin legs are only bent a small amount for a trial fitting of new parts. I agree on only climbing with the legs fully bent.

I only use a cotter pin one time. They frequently have a leg break off on the second bend. Get a bag of 100 stainless steel pins if you're going to be taking the bone apart...they're only ~$5.

I haven't had a problem with the upper tending point. In fact, it tends to force the upper arms to grab. There are a few unusual situations where the BDB and RR don't grab, but from my experience, it requires stiff legs weighting the rope through a foot ascender below the device and a strong pull backwards on the device. Passing out/collapsing will cause limp legs and the BDB will grab even with a straight back pull.
 
There are pros and cons to everything, but you know that Gordon. If replacing a cotter pin from time to time is the biggest complaint, I would consider that a job exceptionally well done.
 
TreeLogic said:
Funny how everyone thinks they'd be the easiest of trees to climb. Wrong! You gotta plan your pruning like crazy. Single leader straight trees are much easier and faster to climb.
Click to expand...
Definitely. Tall doesn't always mean hard. I love the challenge of de-mossong live oaks.
 
Shem said:
Definitely. Tall doesn't always mean hard. I love the challenge of de-mossong live oaks.
Click to expand...
Yeah, just keep that moss out of the chainsaw sprocket. I remember once pruning by myself I made that mistake. I had to come down out of the tree and open up the saw. Now I make sure I have a saw tool handy or a groundie nearby. For those of you that dont know, spanish moss works just like chainsaw chaps on a chainsaw. Jams the sprocket in an instant.
 
TreeLogic said:
Yeah, just keep that moss out of the chainsaw sprocket. I remember once pruning by myself I made that mistake. I had to come down out of the tree and open up the saw. Now I make sure I have a saw tool handy or a groundie nearby. For those of you that dont know, spanish moss works just like chainsaw chaps on a chainsaw. Jams the sprocket in an instant.
Click to expand...
Yea that always blows. I hand pick it before I try to make a cut.
 
TreeLogic said:
Funny how everyone thinks they'd be the easiest of trees to climb. Wrong! You gotta plan your pruning like crazy. Single leader straight trees are much easier and faster to climb.
Click to expand...
I've only free climbed them (respectfully) while I was visiting the coast but I would often sit on a larger limb and daydream about working the Live Oaks. They seen like perfect trees to DSRT.... at least set several lines before leaving the ground.
 
Worthaug said:
I've only free climbed them (respectfully) while I was visiting the coast but I would often sit on a larger limb and daydream about working the Live Oaks. They seen like perfect trees to DSRT.... at least set several lines before leaving the ground.
Click to expand...
Worthaug said:
I've only free climbed them (respectfully) while I was visiting the coast but I would often sit on a larger limb and daydream about working the Live Oaks. They seen like perfect trees to DSRT.... at least set several lines before leaving the ground.
Click to expand...
I run two bridges and a hitch climber stays set up on the tail end of my srt line allot of times. It helps because some of these limbs are so long and low that a pendulum swing would land you on the ground before your rope catches.
 
Shem said:
I run two bridges and a hitch climber stays set up on the tail end of my srt line allot of times. It helps because some of these limbs are so long and low that a pendulum swing would land you on the ground before your rope catches.
Click to expand...
Do you keep a rope sleeve (cambium saver) on your tail too? Seems like there is more than cambium to be saved on these trees when DdRT'ing...
 
Shem said:
I run two bridges and a hitch climber stays set up on the tail end of my srt line allot of times. It helps because some of these limbs are so long and low that a pendulum swing would land you on the ground before your rope catches.
Click to expand...
What he said.

Come down sometime Worthaug, we'll climb a big one. I know you like Chucktown.
Quercus virginiana are definitely trees worthy of DSRT. But they're not in the thin-skinned category when it comes to cambium savers. They're one of the toughest trees we have. And oldest/longest living.
 
Pardon if this has been tried, just cant read all 102 pages.

I'm still very much in the thinking stages and working out the tending. Hole in the spine vs. hole in the top arm...

Looks like I'm going to try hole in the spine with the bungee that I have sewn eyes into. In my mind the least friction tending will be in the configuration shown in this photo. The bungee can be removed after ascent or left in place with I think little impact to operation of the device.
Question: Is the top arm hole favored because it keeps the link engaged? Most other mechanical devices' have some sort of spring to initiate engagement of friction, (Unicender, Rope Runner, ZigZag, rope grabs with a cable, even the RW with a rubber ring on the tether) Seems I have read a lot about minimizing friction on the ascent.

Note: Hairpins are temporary.

BDB (Large).webp
 
Last edited:
I clip right into the spine w/o issue. I think the top arm tending point started from someone getting a lot of drag on ascent, not because it wasn't engaging.
 
Yoyoman,

It was found that the top tether provided for smoother slack tending alhough this isn't universal accepted.

Also, if you do use the top tending spot you need to be aware of the potential for slipping when force is applied by pulling back on the tether.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom