ZK2 wrench tether v4
- Thread starter moss
- Start date
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
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I made the tether with 4 or 5 hog rings on each eye, alternating the orientation as I worked away from the eye. I covered it all with electrical tape a shrink tubing to finish.
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Can you post a pic, I would like to see that.
Thanks
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If its what I am thinking off we call them netting clips or by their brand name Jambro's. We use them for cinching wire netting onto line or picket wires in fencing. Do they have a sharpened points?
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I made the tether with 4 or 5 hog rings on each eye, alternating the orientation as I worked away from the eye. I covered it all with electrical tape a shrink tubing to finish.
[/ QUOTE ]
Can you post a pic, I would like to see that.
Thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
If its what I am thinking off we call them netting clips or by their brand name Jambro's. We use them for cinching wire netting onto line or picket wires in fencing. Do they have a sharpened points?
They have a bit of an edge to them, but not sharpened like some versions of the same thing. They're made out of a very thin wire, and cut to length with a perfect cross-section. Even still, I was concerned about the edges, which is why I covered them so much. I also oriented the bypass points such that they wouldn't effect the hitch.
Try a web image search for "hog ring" and you'll see 'em. The version I used is more like a letter "C" and does not have sharpened ends.
Try a web image search for "hog ring" and you'll see 'em. The version I used is more like a letter "C" and does not have sharpened ends.
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
Ta Eric, I forgot about google, they are the same design as what we use yet I didn't realise there were different variations.
I made this last night and posted a short vid this in the FB SRJ forum here's the you tube link for those that may not get over there. Also a few pics.
Flex Tether Link
I made this last night and posted a short vid this in the FB SRJ forum here's the you tube link for those that may not get over there. Also a few pics.
Flex Tether Link
Bixler
Participating member
- Location
- Nevada City, CA
Nice photos Tony, that spring tether should slide over branches easily.
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
Cheers Bix, its bloody awesome.
I thought about shortening it surveyor but its handy for the longer hitch cords (30" i2i's) etc and the short it is the more resistance there is to flex. It works really well. I started another thread so as not to continue choking Moss's.
I thought about shortening it surveyor but its handy for the longer hitch cords (30" i2i's) etc and the short it is the more resistance there is to flex. It works really well. I started another thread so as not to continue choking Moss's.
- Location
- Bellingham
[ QUOTE ]
They have a bit of an edge to them, but not sharpened like some versions of the same thing. They're made out of a very thin wire, and cut to length with a perfect cross-section. Even still, I was concerned about the edges, which is why I covered them so much. I also oriented the bypass points such that they wouldn't effect the hitch.
Try a web image search for "hog ring" and you'll see 'em. The version I used is more like a letter "C" and does not have sharpened ends.
[/ QUOTE ]
Did you find it led to a stiff enough tether? I tried doing more or less the same thing and the flex seemed a little high still, versus the (if something so new can be called traditional) tradition sewn tethers. Maybe you went about it smarter than I did
They have a bit of an edge to them, but not sharpened like some versions of the same thing. They're made out of a very thin wire, and cut to length with a perfect cross-section. Even still, I was concerned about the edges, which is why I covered them so much. I also oriented the bypass points such that they wouldn't effect the hitch.
Try a web image search for "hog ring" and you'll see 'em. The version I used is more like a letter "C" and does not have sharpened ends.
[/ QUOTE ]
Did you find it led to a stiff enough tether? I tried doing more or less the same thing and the flex seemed a little high still, versus the (if something so new can be called traditional) tradition sewn tethers. Maybe you went about it smarter than I did
- Location
- Bellingham
Three layers of shrink wrap- that'll do it. Cool, glad that worked out!
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
This is a "no stitch" tether, experimenting with the length, this is an extreme short version at 7.5" e-2-e. The eyes are as long as the entire tether, then taped with vinyl tape, then two layers of adhesive shrink tube. Appears to be very strong, I'll test to verify. Without stitching the production time is reduced dramatically.
More photos...
-AJ
More photos...
-AJ
- Location
- Randolph, MA
moss, have you flown on that short tether yet?
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
I put a band on up under the wrench like yours and that seems to limit the pivot a lot. The wrench engages way better and seems the lack of downward pivot seems like it would keep the wrench well above the hitch. If the band works out well I could probably shorten my tether another 3" or so.
Keep us posted how that shorty works out.
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
I put a band on up under the wrench like yours and that seems to limit the pivot a lot. The wrench engages way better and seems the lack of downward pivot seems like it would keep the wrench well above the hitch. If the band works out well I could probably shorten my tether another 3" or so.
Keep us posted how that shorty works out.
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
[ QUOTE ]
moss, have you flown on that short tether yet?
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
I put a band on up under the wrench like yours and that seems to limit the pivot a lot. The wrench engages way better and seems the lack of downward pivot seems like it would keep the wrench well above the hitch. If the band works out well I could probably shorten my tether another 3" or so.
Keep us posted how that shorty works out.
[/ QUOTE ]
Cool, I've been thinking about a slic pin attachment to the HC. I think you need the wrench to pivot down to horizontal at least so the rope will drop through it easily during ascent. It doesn't seem to release the hitch though when it contacts in the horizontal position, once the hitch sets the wrench goes up like it's supposed to do.
Weather convinced me not to test outdoors today. I did some limited tests on my indoor anchor. It works but I think I want the tether an inch longer for the minimum shorty. That's for a Hitch Climber, I tried it with a Micropulley and it was damn near perfect, probably excellent with a Pinto or one of the fixe type pulleys, I have neither to test.
Nice thing about a normal length tether is you can go to a different hitch or cordage when you want to. It seems like hitchs and cords behave differently on different days, different trees.
-AJ
moss, have you flown on that short tether yet?
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
I put a band on up under the wrench like yours and that seems to limit the pivot a lot. The wrench engages way better and seems the lack of downward pivot seems like it would keep the wrench well above the hitch. If the band works out well I could probably shorten my tether another 3" or so.
Keep us posted how that shorty works out.
[/ QUOTE ]
Cool, I've been thinking about a slic pin attachment to the HC. I think you need the wrench to pivot down to horizontal at least so the rope will drop through it easily during ascent. It doesn't seem to release the hitch though when it contacts in the horizontal position, once the hitch sets the wrench goes up like it's supposed to do.
Weather convinced me not to test outdoors today. I did some limited tests on my indoor anchor. It works but I think I want the tether an inch longer for the minimum shorty. That's for a Hitch Climber, I tried it with a Micropulley and it was damn near perfect, probably excellent with a Pinto or one of the fixe type pulleys, I have neither to test.
Nice thing about a normal length tether is you can go to a different hitch or cordage when you want to. It seems like hitchs and cords behave differently on different days, different trees.
-AJ
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
[ QUOTE ]
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, brilliant approach. I've been fiddling around with a slic pin tether attachment today. I think it's going to be a very good solution. Very doable. I think I want the "washer" to be a single piece, can be aluminum, essentially a U made from flat stock with holes for the slic pin drilled in the legs of the U. The U is integrated into the tether so it can't be dropped, likewise the slic pin, captive same as it is on the ZK2, quick on/off, nice and secure.
-AJ
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, brilliant approach. I've been fiddling around with a slic pin tether attachment today. I think it's going to be a very good solution. Very doable. I think I want the "washer" to be a single piece, can be aluminum, essentially a U made from flat stock with holes for the slic pin drilled in the legs of the U. The U is integrated into the tether so it can't be dropped, likewise the slic pin, captive same as it is on the ZK2, quick on/off, nice and secure.
-AJ
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
The problem I had with too short a tether was my gloves getting eaten by the wrench.
- Location
- Randolph, MA
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, brilliant approach. I've been fiddling around with a slic pin tether attachment today. I think it's going to be a very good solution. Very doable. I think I want the "washer" to be a single piece, can be aluminum, essentially a U made from flat stock with holes for the slic pin drilled in the legs of the U. The U is integrated into the tether so it can't be dropped, likewise the slic pin, captive same as it is on the ZK2, quick on/off, nice and secure.
-AJ
[/ QUOTE ]
I was thinking the same thing about the aluminum U. Right now if I drop a washer it's gone. There isn't enough meat to drill a washer to retain it.
My second slic pin should be here by the weekend so I can start to fine tune something.
I did make a shorter tether but I think I'll be ok with the gloves. With a micho' there's a good amount of space in there. And the rubber band at the top really seems to keep the wrench up and engaging quickly.
[ QUOTE ]
I've been messing around with a similar tech cord tether that goes in the top hole of the HC with another slic pin and a couple stainless washers. I'm happy with it so far but I'd like it better if it were shorter.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, brilliant approach. I've been fiddling around with a slic pin tether attachment today. I think it's going to be a very good solution. Very doable. I think I want the "washer" to be a single piece, can be aluminum, essentially a U made from flat stock with holes for the slic pin drilled in the legs of the U. The U is integrated into the tether so it can't be dropped, likewise the slic pin, captive same as it is on the ZK2, quick on/off, nice and secure.
-AJ
[/ QUOTE ]
I was thinking the same thing about the aluminum U. Right now if I drop a washer it's gone. There isn't enough meat to drill a washer to retain it.
My second slic pin should be here by the weekend so I can start to fine tune something.
I did make a shorter tether but I think I'll be ok with the gloves. With a micho' there's a good amount of space in there. And the rubber band at the top really seems to keep the wrench up and engaging quickly.
I run my wrench with a short dogbone from one of my quickdraws and a biner through the top hole of my hc. can someone explain the benifit of these long tethers? Right now with the dogbone and biner setup I can pull the wrench out of the system and switch to ddrt if I want without removing everything from my main biner.
[ QUOTE ]
I run my wrench with a short dogbone from one of my quickdraws and a biner through the top hole of my hc. can someone explain the benifit of these long tethers? Right now with the dogbone and biner setup I can pull the wrench out of the system and switch to ddrt if I want without removing everything from my main biner.
[/ QUOTE ]
http://vimeo.com/57726543
Here's a video that Moss took to show the versatility of the stiff tether.
I think the dogbone will let things flop around a bit much...if what you're using is what I think it is.
I run my wrench with a short dogbone from one of my quickdraws and a biner through the top hole of my hc. can someone explain the benifit of these long tethers? Right now with the dogbone and biner setup I can pull the wrench out of the system and switch to ddrt if I want without removing everything from my main biner.
[/ QUOTE ]
http://vimeo.com/57726543
Here's a video that Moss took to show the versatility of the stiff tether.
I think the dogbone will let things flop around a bit much...if what you're using is what I think it is.
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