ultrasling instruction

[monkeylove]

Looks like two pieces of cordage. That seems to be the easier way to go, I did it with one and it was sort of a pain in the ass

How do you like it? I got a bunch of singles I spliced for light duty and redirects but had nothing with two rings. Well other than cabium saver style.

 

[Z'sTrees]

I love it, much lighter than a block, quick and easy to setup. I generally use mine in a knotless rigging type setup with a 9/16" rope with a tight eye. It's incredibly fluid and easy to move and reset when blocking down a spar.

 

[monkeylove]

Perfect, that's good to know. 99% of my rigging is done with 5/8 and below. I just did a job with Mert and Jon that made me want one. I really like the friction control with the combo we used. Twin rings, 9/16 rope, GRCS bollard. The combo worked really well together.

 

[Z'sTrees]

Hard to beat the 9/16", seems like a half step to 5/8 but the strength per diameter/weight is fantastic.
I'm sure you'll enjoy the ultra sling. Almost everything I have is an ultra anymore. Stupid simple to splice and use, and they break test at really high %'s

 

[bonner1040]

Ultra slings are the best! I'll keep saying it!


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[ATH]

Digging up an old thread... Looking to make an ultrasling.

Anybody have a video or know of a video? Youtube comes up empty...unless I am just searching for the wrong thing?

Or should I just spring for the TreeU splicing class? (Assuming it is covered there?)

 

[Z'sTrees]

Three locking brummels between the pockets, finish your last brummel with a bury. Dead nuts simple

 

[ATH]

1) Is the first loop (or is the the last?) just a bight in the rope, then work back towards the ends?

2) I'm familiar with doing a locking brummel for an eye in the end. I'm assuming this is the same, just without the bury (until the last)?

3) When you say 3 locking brummels, just so I am clear (and this is what it looks like), does that mean: End A passes through (#1), End B passes through (#2) (now at a 'normal locked brummel), then End A passes through again (for #3)? And on that note, do I start with "End A" again on the next one or alternate to "End B" on the next one?

Finally, how much rope do the splices eat up? (Asked differently: If I want a 15' long product at the end, how much rope should I be starting with?)

Thanks!

I think these are all simple questions...but knowing will save a bunch of time and increase confidence.

 

[Z'sTrees]

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes, and I alternate to keep the two ends more even as you go
4. It doesn't take up a ton of extra cordage. If you are shooting for 15' total length you might start with around 35' of tenex. You can cut any extra off. I prefer a fid length buried at the end and finish it with heat shrink, or you can back splice to finish, or you can make another eye with a straight bury.

 

[Tree-Taylor]

The first couple I made I just terminated the ends with two double fisherman's to form a final pocket instead of the bury. Strength is obviously reduced on the last pocket but at least it's usable as opposed to the bury. I was planning on doing an endless loop splice but I miscalculated the total length required for that splice. Splicing is a constantly humbling experience.

 

[bonner1040]

Digging up an old thread... Looking to make an ultrasling.

Anybody have a video or know of a video? Youtube comes up empty...unless I am just searching for the wrong thing?

Or should I just spring for the TreeU splicing class? (Assuming it is covered there?)

It is covered there and you should get it!


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[ATH]

It is covered there and you should get it!

I've tried the ultra sling with what I could find. Probably worth watching Nick do it so I can see what I did wrong.

I still may (should) get TreeU Spicing...not that I'm surprised you endorse it - but I also know you aren't in the business of peddling junk!!! I have lots to learn, and that is good price for 4 hours of instruction. I'm also thinking the other stuff that can be found online is to be taken with a large grain of salt unless it is from the rope manufacturer.

 

[ATH]

The first couple I made I just terminated the ends with two double fisherman's to form a final pocket instead of the bury. Strength is obviously reduced on the last pocket but at least it's usable as opposed to the bury. I was planning on doing an endless loop splice but I miscalculated the total length required for that splice. Splicing is a constantly humbling experience.

I thought about the end to end too, but that eats up a lot of rope and leaves a giant last loop.

The ironic think about the last loop being reduced strength is that if you are using the last loop, you are tied onto a big tree = more likely to need all the strength you can use on big pieces. But then again, this isn't necessarily the best tool for monster pieces.

 

[ATH]

I'm not a youtuber/didn't want to spend time compiling and editing a video that I do not want to be instructional, so I took a few pictures to document what I did. The following pics/posts by me are NOT instructional, intended to hint at any instruction, suggestive of what anybody else should or shouldn't do...just what I did. If you take them as such, know you are in the footsteps of a rookie - no not even a rookie, just playing around in training camp. This is the first I have done, and it hasn't even been around a tree. Please find somebody who knows what they are doing (might I suggest the above TreeU splicing!) if you want instruction.

With that said...I appreciate all of the input and instruction I have received from others!!! So, here it is. First, the numbers and a picture of the finished product:
*Started with 34' length of 5/8" Tenex-tec (received 68' in a Bag-O-Rope).
*Ended with 15' long laid out flat, not pulled tight.
*Includes 12 pockets at 12" each
*Like everybody else, I wasn't sure the best way to do the end...will explain in picture caption below.

Finished product:

 

[ATH]

Started by finding the middle, sliding a nylon sleeve to the center, and measuring down 12" for first loop:



Stuck a fid through making sure I had 3 right twist strands and 3 left twist strands on either side of the fid with no stray yarns separated by the fid.

 

[ATH]

I taped one end with masking tape and one end with electrical tape to make it easy to keep track of "black" and "white" ends. Pushed white end through first:


Then the black end:


And the white end again to finish off the first loop:


And tightened everything up:

 

[ATH]

My helper measured and marked for the next loop:


This time I started with the black end:


Then, of course, the white;


...
I say "of course", but as I was finishing loop #4 with "white", I realized I messed up somewhere... Loop #3 got white fed in for the first two, then black for the 3rd which led to #4 starting and finishing with white. Pulled out loop #4's splices and the 2nd and 3rd in loop #3. Lesson learned (thankfully caught early!)...don't be so distracted:

 

[ATH]

12 loops later, I am nearing the end.

So...like I said above, I haven't loved any of the finishes seen so far (no offense - just didn't seem like the perfect answer, and neither is mine!). Wasn't quite sure what my plan was, but figured I'd see how much rope I had when I got down there. Started to run low on rope, but didn't want to have a too short of a sling (or a really long tail).

What I did was to run locking brummels until I didn't have rope to do another (used 5). Part of my thinking is: "If it is good for the goose on the first 11 pockets, its good for the gander on the last!" Right?????

I don't expect there is any less strength from this last spice (even if only 3 like the rest). As long as the ends won't back out, I'm thinking I have the strength. I finished off each end with some whipping twine and shrink tubing. I ran some lock stitches to hold the 2 ends together, then "lashed" the 2 ends with more whipping twine. They aren't moving. If we see them start to pull in use, we'll just have to abandon the last loop and redo that end with a bury after the last brummel and lose the #12 pocket.

 

[Tree-Taylor]

12 loops later, I am nearing the end.

So...like I said above, I haven't loved any of the finishes seen so far (no offense - just didn't seem like the perfect answer, and neither is mine!). Wasn't quite sure what my plan was, but figured I'd see how much rope I had when I got down there. Started to run low on rope, but didn't want to have a too short of a sling (or a really long tail).

What I did was to run locking brummels until I didn't have rope to do another (used 5). Part of my thinking is: "If it is good for the goose on the first 11 pockets, its good for the gander on the last!" Right?????

I don't expect there is any less strength from this last spice (even if only 3 like the rest). As long as the ends won't back out, I'm thinking I have the strength. I finished off each end with some whipping twine and shrink tubing. I ran some lock stitches to hold the 2 ends together, then "lashed" the 2 ends with more whipping twine. They aren't moving. If we see them start to pull in use, we'll just have to abandon the last loop and redo that end with a bury after the last brummel and lose the #12 pocket.
View attachment 48933

You're finish makes a whole lot more sense than mine. I feel like such a dummy haha. Good job! I'll be redoing my ends tonight.

I'd still like to make an ultrasling with a clean last loop...endless loop splice or otherwise.

 

[flyingsquirrel25]

You're finish makes a whole lot more sense than mine. I feel like such a dummy haha. Good job! I'll be redoing my ends tonight.

I'd still like to make an ultrasling with a clean last loop...endless loop splice or otherwise.

Good, clean, rated loop at the end! It’s been tested too since this picture was taken.

Disclaimer: it has already been pointed out, via PM, that I only did 2 pass throughs for my Brummells (which is spec for a dead eye sling). I have seen no ill effects of this as of yet. No pockets getting smaller or larger and certainly no strength issues as this was mainly my winch redirect for the chipper.