What splice to use for Blue Moon

evo

Well-Known Member
Location
My Island, WA

evo

Well-Known Member
Location
My Island, WA
Im going to try splicing a yale blue moon 11.7 mm. Would the 1/2 inch (12mm) fid in my samson splicing kit be the right size?
nope, go with a wire fid on this one... A coat hanger folded in half will be much better... Now for measurements sure, just make sure you taper well
 

Hosocat

Active Member
Location
Alabama
Referring again to the samson instructions, and splicing yale blue moon. Instructions say to go to a point T, which is 8 strands toward the tail from point R. At. That point start cutting every fifth pair of strands of the cover until you reach the tail. But if i do that i actually have 13 or 14 marked pairs for removal. If i remove all those paired strands i actually end up shortening the tail slightly because it is a 24 strand cover, and i end up with only a couple of strands at the tail. Doesnt seem right. Am i misunderstanding something?
 

evo

Well-Known Member
Location
My Island, WA
Referring again to the samson instructions, and splicing yale blue moon. Instructions say to go to a point T, which is 8 strands toward the tail from point R. At. That point start cutting every fifth pair of strands of the cover until you reach the tail. But if i do that i actually have 13 or 14 marked pairs for removal. If i remove all those paired strands i actually end up shortening the tail slightly because it is a 24 strand cover, and i end up with only a couple of strands at the tail. Doesnt seem right. Am i misunderstanding something?
That does happen with some ropes etc. when splicing “unsplicable’ ropes I actually add a few inches so I have a much longer taper. This is the trick with kernmaster, and how to make a ‘super taper’
The goal is to make a longer bury and a much longer smoother taper.

Another trick is to do essentially the same but cut off the excess. This is actually how I do all my splices, and really comes in handy for the core bury. I just take about 2-3” of the end of the core. Heavily taper so when you do the bury with a wire fid you are pulling a “bullet” through and not a doubled over end. All this gets cut off later so it really it just a tool to help.

The tapers are there for a smooth transition, the lay or weave matters very little within the taper. The pattern of taper is designed to give a uniformity and to keep the braid together. It’s my understanding that some of the first double braid splices didn’t even bury the cover, and just seized the cover and whipped.
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Location
Michigan
Maybe stop when it gets shorter than the recommended bury length and just fan taper at the end.
The doubling over when using a wire fid is made easier by adding a small piece of bent wire shaped like old wire fids that Samson shows, but smaller. Bend in middle with a barb at each end, squeeze, and tape on.
B22A0B1E-A986-4561-8F89-A935668C1E71.jpeg
The first double braid splice had the core ending in the middle of the eye. This caused the eye to break too soon. Moved to end and finally settled on going past the eye one rope diameter to a long fid for the core bury, many suggested lengths. Samson’s used db splice says no bury is needed??????
 
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Rope Surgeon

New Member
Location
Bellingham
I've had good success using a 7/16 fid. You get 11 taper strands marked and a nice smooth taper.

Break testing did better than 1/2 fid, as that one had more slippage before breaking.

I set it with a belt and never have a problem with it being difficult, especially compared to Blaze or Hyperclimb.
 

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