Trouble searching threads - tail management

total_wood

New Member
Location
St. Paul
Hoping someone could point me in the direction of a post or two about managing the tail of my SRT climbing system. The word tail is too prolific here for me to make a decent search apparently hahah.

Any advice would be appreciated greatly as well.

I've been climbing Great Plains Cottonwoods so I'm often 80+ ft up, and I'll run either two independent SRT systems or have another system on the end of my tail which just makes a huge loop that I worry will bring me down with wood if I don't manage it properly. Either way, lots of tail to manage.. anyways, thanks.

Cheers.
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Location
Montana
One of the many nice things about an SRS is that you will be needing only half the tail that you would for an MRS, so management is much easier. Try to set your climbing line with just enough length to get the job done with only a small amount of extra for redirects.

I do not like using the tail of an SRS for a second climbing system for the very reason that it is so short that it is easy to get in trouble. An independent second system is a better choice if it is needed.
 

Mitch Hoy

Well-Known Member
Location
Rochester
I definitely understand concerns with tail systems, but I would advocate for their use with precautions.
Sometimes using your tail as a second system is a great way to also manage your tail. I haven’t had the bight cause me any more issues than a bitter end. If you are using one end MRS and get into a bind, you can ditch it and pull it through. I haven’t ever had to do that with almost daily use for a couple years now. It is a nice way to halve the amount of line you have out. I also prefer it to managing two independent lines, although I work on multiple lines plenty as well. For me, each method has its place. I like to ditch my tail system when I don’t need it. Spliced ends and the akimbo make it quick to set back up again.

For management of either a bitter end or a doubled tail, my technique is this: Throw your tail over an open inner union away from the side of the tree you are working on. Flake out just enough line into your work column to get where you are going. If you need more, drag more through. If you need less, whip it back through the crotch.

Of course, as @DSMc recommends, shortening your line is the simplest fix of all.

Be careful in those cottonweeds! However you do it, two TIPs is probably best!
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Location
Montana
I used to use my rope tail for setting a second tip all the time and it does work well. However, the extra caution needed when using such a closed loop system always bugged me. Plus, I am a firm believer in maintaining instant ground access.

I now mostly use a long lanyard with an Akimbo as the adjuster. I find that works great and if I really needed to bail in a hurry, I could just unclip it and go.
 

total_wood

New Member
Location
St. Paul
Thanks for the replies!

I also like to be able to bomb to the ground, ive been playing around a bit with coiling and securing my tail so that it can come uncoiled while rappelling. Something I picked up from a canyoneering friend of mine. It's been hard to integrate efficiently and being mindful of whether your tail would actually touch the ground or not is just another factor to keep in mind. Could be something useful there though but I've yet to make it worth the squeeze..
 
I do remember a discussion about rope tails and redirects etc. One thing, at that time it was mentioned that if there's any doubt about your tail reaching the ground (and even if there's not) to remember to tie a figure 8 or some such about three or four feet above the end of your rope so if you ever do hit the knot, you don't go off the rope and you also have enough rope left you can get back on your foot ascender and go back up. My 2 centz.
 

SomethingWitty

Arkansawyer
Location
LR
I do remember a discussion about rope tails and redirects etc. One thing, at that time it was mentioned that if there's any doubt about your tail reaching the ground (and even if there's not) to remember to tie a figure 8 or some such about three or four feet above the end of your rope so if you ever do hit the knot, you don't go off the rope and you also have enough rope left you can get back on your foot ascender and go back up. My 2 centz.
Friends don't let friends use figure of 8 stopper knots.
It's a double overhand or nothing for me, especially on the stiff kernmantle lines I use.
Or an EStar if I want to be fancy and ensure that I get it stuck in a union.
 

Lupin_IV

Member
Location
St Paul
They can be a beast to tackle... I don’t climb them often but I usually just set multiple lines after dividing the tree into work segments hoping only one system is necessary. It can just be too ridiculous sometimes setting the ideal redirects in those things... Use just enough rope. A 75 foot MRS system tied to the tail is easy to pull up and ditch.
 

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