Stihl 201T Mtronic Fix

Birdyman88

Well-Known Member
I posted some stuff over on OPE forum regarding possible fix for the idle issue with the 201T. This should also apply to other mtronic as well. The M0.8x5 n-but o-ring was critical because it's tiny and that hole is a tight fit. But, you use can these Orings on both V2 and V3 solenoids. If you pull the solenoid, CHANGE THE O-RING!!! They are not reusable and will not go back in properly!


The jist is that IF your saw has a V2 mtronic solenoid valve, you may be able to remove it and do this mod and get the saw back running normally. IF the valve has completely worn out and allowing fuel to bypass valve unmetered, then you just need to buy a new solenoid. For saws that are V2 version, you can replace with a V2 solenoid (weaker design), or you may upgrade to a V3 solenoid (beefed up design) without changing your coil. If you have a V3 solenoid, you must replace with V3. The solenoid change is really easy and it attaches to carb with 1 screw.

Bear in mind that you may also have other issues causing the idle problem, but it seems to be the general consesus that the V2 solenoid was a weak design and is a primary culprit. The V2 solenoids can be found for as low as $40. The V3 solenoids were about twice that last time I looked. If you don't know your solenoid version, the V2 is black and the V3 is white. Cautionary note. If you bought your saw used, or someone has worked on it, be sure you know your coil's mtronic version. I read a case where someone put a V2 solenoid on a saw with a V3 coil and it did not work correctly. V3 coil requires V3 solenoid. V2 coild will work with V2 or V3 solenoid. V3 coil is the version that steps through the RPMs on calibration. V2 coil is one where you let idle for 90 seconds. BOTH versions calibrate with 5 uniform cuts - according to the Stihl rep I spoke with.
 

Wrangler

Active Member
I posted some stuff over on OPE forum regarding possible fix for the idle issue with the 201T. This should also apply to other mtronic as well. The M0.8x5 n-but o-ring was critical because it's tiny and that hole is a tight fit. But, you use can these Orings on both V2 and V3 solenoids. If you pull the solenoid, CHANGE THE O-RING!!! They are not reusable and will not go back in properly!


The jist is that IF your saw has a V2 mtronic solenoid valve, you may be able to remove it and do this mod and get the saw back running normally. IF the valve has completely worn out and allowing fuel to bypass valve unmetered, then you just need to buy a new solenoid. For saws that are V2 version, you can replace with a V2 solenoid (weaker design), or you may upgrade to a V3 solenoid (beefed up design) without changing your coil. If you have a V3 solenoid, you must replace with V3. The solenoid change is really easy and it attaches to carb with 1 screw.

Bear in mind that you may also have other issues causing the idle problem, but it seems to be the general consesus that the V2 solenoid was a weak design and is a primary culprit. The V2 solenoids can be found for as low as $40. The V3 solenoids were about twice that last time I looked. If you don't know your solenoid version, the V2 is black and the V3 is white. Cautionary note. If you bought your saw used, or someone has worked on it, be sure you know your coil's mtronic version. I read a case where someone put a V2 solenoid on a saw with a V3 coil and it did not work correctly. V3 coil requires V3 solenoid. V2 coild will work with V2 or V3 solenoid. V3 coil is the version that steps through the RPMs on calibration. V2 coil is one where you let idle for 90 seconds. BOTH versions calibrate with 5 uniform cuts - according to the Stihl rep I spoke with.
Thanks @Birdyman88 ,great information!
 

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