Yes, but you can still use an additional depth gauge after the sharpen if you prefer.Is the 0.025" offset the only choice?
You can change the file size in less than 15 seconds. I drop down in size as well on worn chains.I move down in file size toward the end of the cutter
This thing really is just a file guide that just happens to have a depth gauge file built in, and some big fat handles setup to 30 degrees that a blind man could get right. The depth file can be removed pretty quickly if desired. You ARE limited in how low into the cutter you go because of the guide rails, so if you want more hook, you may be SOL without going to smaller file. If you don't like 30deg angle, you can put a line on the handle or the rails to get another angle.Good guides will allow you to sharpen accurately to their settings, only.
Found this evident too...Reviving this thread to post something I ran across using the 2-in-1 sharpener.
It is important to make sure that the round files in the 2-in-1 are able to turn somewhat freely within the sharpener. Meaning if you take your fingers and try to rotate the round files, they should actually rotate somewhat freely. I have found several scenarios where the round files get locked up, do not cut the metal consistently, and the cutter may not be sharpened correctly.
1) When the filings and gunk get down into the hole that the round file occupies, it can stop the file from rotating. I usually blow the 2-in-1 out pretty routinely with compressed air at the shop, and I hit the holes then. In the field is where I have seen the issue because we're just brushing the filings off with a brush and not clearing the holes. You know it because it feels like the file is not cutting any metal. Once you clear the holes and files rotate freely, you feel the file starting to cut again.
2) Using the wrong length files. I switched from Stihl files over to some aftermarkets, and they were just slightly longer. I found that a plastic tab inside the flip open handle was pressing against the file for ONE SIDE and keeping it from rotating. This caused a chain to get sharpened unevenly from one side to the other. The result was that the cut began to drift. We didn't really notice until we got into some bigger wood longer than the bar. These were stump chains that had been resurrected on site using the same number of strokes on each side, but after closer inspection, it was obvious each side had not been sharpen the same. The BETTER side corresponded to the file that was rotating freely. Once we corrected the file by eliminating contact with the plastic tab, everything appeared to correct itself, and we got the chains evened out.
3) The plastic handle system separates from the metal guides, and you put it back together SHORTER than it started. My 3/8P just started coming apart one day. We popped the handles back into place until they were snug. Apparently, this made the 2-in-1 shorter, and the ONE round files began to bind inside the flip open handle. Fortunately, we caught this pretty quick as we couldn't get the round files cut the metal very well. Once we separated it some, and the files rotated properly, they began to cut the metal properly.
Anyway, love the 2-in-1 system, but just be aware of these quirks.