Me likeySometimes I will take as many wraps as I can, the more friction on the base anchor (near the tip) seems to drastically reduce forces on some type of trees (conifers). Also when the odd limb snaps it’s more likely for your line to fall tight in the whorl below v sliding outward from the crown (western red cedar).
I use to do it and then base tie with a bowline. Since then I now just base tie with a backed up running bowline, and place a alpine butterfly a few feet up the line (add a rescue loop).
I dig that. I'm going to try that this week. Thank you for sharing!I just learned a trick from a fellow climber, this is so simple but really helps a running bowline cinch on a trunk. Instead of wrapping the end of the rope around the working end once, you wrap it around twice. Once it comes under load, it really holds the knot well.
Others I work with start their basal anchor with a half hitch before the running bowline.
I will be using the first method from now on, it’s a little bit easier and requires less rope.
This is a great explanation. It makes sense, that's why we throw half hitches into the mix when rigging. Extra squeeze and changes the knot angle a bit. Does it reduce the knot strength when utilizing a standard bowline with no wraps?i think there is a whole science to making at least 3x180 arcs (Round Turn) to allow more of a 2 dimensional grip on host in my mental imagery. On a scale of kinda workable to mechanically positive shrinking eye around trunk to up and over a branch redirect to load is not to high end of scale.
The 2D structure from centers of each 180 compressing INTO the tree(as all or rest of rope forces trace AROUND tree) does not exist until 3x180arcs and more arcs, then expands on the ideal if add more 180s.
This angle of pull up trunk is what ABoK references in exclusive topic on 'lengthwise' pulls as the worst angle to pull any knot, and the "impossible not to be expected" (opening pre-ramble of chapter_22). Right angle to host is the most proper angle of pull, lengthwise pulls are literally a different dimension.. If pulled a Running Bowline at this angle dragging a log, can be like dragging a wild cat flipping around, preceding tho with Half Hitch can calm this beast to drag politely as does throwing Half before Timber for lengthwise pull to make Killick.
Placing simple 1x180arc Running Bowline basal works some because of the buffer of the redirect turn at peak/would be TIP between load and hold. But, i still think is most mechanically proper to upgrade to 2D grip potential of 3 or more 180arcs, and the top redirect/buffer just extra frosting, not main.
A pre-fixxing with a Half Hitch allows the formation. This allows the standard right angle pull on host and then also the 2D form to extrude pulling away from rope structure or MAY conspire to self crossing hitch as like rope version of can't lift self by own bootstraps trap. The extra geometry of the more arcs allow forces to self moderate to get wider usage range.
Though a 180 Turn redirect to load leg buffers force timing to Timber/Running Bowline/simple shrinking eye; I would not favor trusting whatever force passed indirectly that would not trust whatever directly passed to same support geometry, and then only with care, especially in life risk situations, especially on even miniscule receding taper. Varying bark slickness also a player here; to such a global offer.