Rope Wrench with shackle

Louhut

Member
I use a wrench a lot on a swivel and rock O.

Whenever I want to use 10mm cord with double fisherman’s the carabiner gets a bit full. This will normaly create two different hazards: eye of hitch falling down the spine of Biner, and the opposite eye rubbing the barrel of the biner.

The problem of the eye sliding down can be sorted with a rubber stopper but if you’re like me you like using different hitch combos frequently and this would be a pain to take on and off. Another problem is that if I used a larger biner to accommodate all the clutter, the biner doesn’t fit the swivel (I love the swivel), I’d have to put the biner on first, spin it around and then put everything on.

Question is do I ditch the swivel and substitute in a large biner where everything fits on the top part of the biner. This way the gate can fit through the ring. Or introduce a small shackle on the centre ring of hitch climber pulley. I am uncertain of using a shackle in this way because it goes against how I was taught how to use the wrench, and also things like that don’t really fly too well in the UK.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Acerxharlowii

Well-Known Member
I also started using a quickie with the tether in the middle hole. Works nice as a place for the chest harness too. You could get the one eye tether as well to help consolidate space. I used the rhino dmm at the beginning but ditched using it because of the way I like my carabiner oriented on the bridge.
 

Louhut

Member
This is the way I have it with 8mm but my personal favourite is 10mm beeline. I’d either swap my swivel for a bridge ring and use a bigger biner, or keep the swivel and carry on using an oval with a shackle but I can’t choose which. Trying to gather all the advantages and disadvantages of each
 

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Louhut

Member
This is the way I have it with 8mm but my personal favourite is 10mm beeline. I’d either swap my swivel for a bridge ring and use a bigger biner, or keep the swivel and carry on using an oval with a shackle but I can’t choose which. Trying to gather all the advantages and disadvantages of each
 

ghostice

Well-Known Member
Not sure if this will help - a year or so ago I was playing with different biners and a knot on the bottom of the Unicender. In the course of this, I fiddled with a couple of different biners having wider ends than a Rock-O or other oval biner.
The attached file shows a couple of options I use now, even with sewn eyes for my RW setups - I like the ISC biner the best, but just personal preference (it's a beautifully finished piece of metal art). Cheers.

BiggerBiners.jpg
 

Louhut

Member
Good info, I had a look at a couple different biners too, William was the best for me because of the strength and size of the top portion it has. The problem I’m facing is I can’t use any of these as long as I’m using the BOTTOM section of the carabiner as this is th part which passes through the swivel. I’ll show some photos to show what I mean.
 

Attachments

Bob Bob

Well-Known Member
I use a wrench a lot on a swivel and rock O.

Whenever I want to use 10mm cord with double fisherman’s the carabiner gets a bit full. This will normaly create two different hazards: eye of hitch falling down the spine of Biner, and the opposite eye rubbing the barrel of the biner.

The problem of the eye sliding down can be sorted with a rubber stopper but if you’re like me you like using different hitch combos frequently and this would be a pain to take on and off. Another problem is that if I used a larger biner to accommodate all the clutter, the biner doesn’t fit the swivel (I love the swivel), I’d have to put the biner on first, spin it around and then put everything on.

Question is do I ditch the swivel and substitute in a large biner where everything fits on the top part of the biner. This way the gate can fit through the ring. Or introduce a small shackle on the centre ring of hitch climber pulley. I am uncertain of using a shackle in this way because it goes against how I was taught how to use the wrench, and also things like that don’t really fly too well in the UK.

Thanks for reading!
That shackle looks OK to me- I'd use it.

I'm using a locking round hitch pin from Tractor Supply for the 2 eye tether connector with the Hitchclimber pulley. I've also tried a locking carabiner but that had too much slop and the carabiner seemed to rotate too much.

I've also had some luck using the DMM Pinto pulley + 2 eye tether + Pirate carabiner if you want everything on one carabiner. Not sure if that will help you with rotating the gate through the small swival...like @Jehinten mentioned maybe a large DMM or Petzl swival will open up some possibilities.

This existing thread may help you get a few more ideas. http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/hitch-independent-zk-2-tether.24766/
 
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Louhut

Member
Just had a eureka moment, does anyone know where to get those biners where the gate opens the other way round, this way I’d be able to keep the smaller swivel and use an hms style biner!
 

Mitch Hoy

Active Member
I also occasionally use a quickie for the wrench on the central attachment hole on a hitch climber, and it is part of a minimal gear list I have for training new climbers for a quick changeover system for hitch-based srs/mrs.
 

Louhut

Member
Thanks for the help everyone, decided to add a ring onto my bridge and use a petzl william so I am fit the bulky fisherman knot, pulley and wrench all on the top. The swivel and ring are a bit annoying when they ring but who cares
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Another way to go, that works well with a swivel, is to replace the pulley with a short double eye strap. It pushes up the hitch when single hand slack tending, once you’re in the tree, first picture.
In the second picture for ascending, the hitch and Wrench are rotated 180 degrees, and the carabiner is opened and the rope is placed through the gate. The short strap now can have a chest, neck, or over the shoulder tender attached to it. Single hand tending is also possible like this, or it can easily be rotated back.
The short legs of the Wrench tether keeps the hitch eyes together.
54B2162C-0C22-460B-916F-D20865F1184A.jpeg
7E7F13B0-AC68-42CA-96FF-0E790923F04D.jpeg
 

Louhut

Member
Wow. That’s crafty. I’m gonna try that, what have you used for the cordage in the wrench tether and what keeps the tether stiff? Also what is the tender made up of?
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
The cord is 5/32” NER’s T-100, a technora core and polyester cover. I sewed two separate double eyes, then sewed the two together. It was fairly stiff at this point, but made it stiffer by adding a zip tie to each side. Then put 10mm Bee-Line cover over it.
F7E7D2AC-188C-4EEA-8BB9-A0D491D3206B.jpeg
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Marine or boat stores, or websites would have the u shaped shackles. Hardware stores seemed to only carry bow shackles.
A short soft shackle would be my preference.

Forgot about the tender, Lou, it’s a short, sewn double eye with a 8mm RIT cover put over it. The combination keeps it stiff, so that it doesn’t collapse and squeeze the rope.
952FC713-8A13-4C26-9770-CEAB9FFF122B.jpeg
 

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