Pain in hands after climbing

Mwelander

New Member
Location
Karlstad Sweden
Hi, I started climbing a few months ago and since doing some more advanced moves out on limbs etc where I held the rope quite a bit with one hand for balance (double 12mm rope) I've had ache in the outside part of my hands (like down along the bone from the pinky finger and the one next to it. Think the pain is between those two bones).

I was wondering if you experienced climbers have a name for it, or know any tricks what to do about it. It feels like my hands (or the two smallest fingers) want to go inte the gripping position when they are at rest. Should I actively make them not bend? Stretch or exercise them in any certain way?

Or is it just some hereditary reumatism sneaking up on me in a most untimely manner?
 

misfit

Active Member
Location
Baton Rouge
That sounds like ulnar tunnel syndrome to me, but I am not a doctor, nor have I even played one on TV. The ulnar tunnel and the nerve that runs through it controls the pinkie and pinkie side of the ring finger. It gets inflamed when you either repetitively move your hand side to side or hold your hand to one side for a long time. So you need to be aware of your hand position while climbing and try to keep it in line with your forearm.

In my younger years, I played piano a lot every day and had ulnar tunnel all the time. Because of good hand position, I never had carpal tunnel syndrome. That's because I could keep my hand level with my forearm while playing, but could not possibly avoid bending side-to-side as my hands moved up and down the keyboard.
 

rope-a-dope

Well-Known Member
Location
Asheville
Maybe an over-gripping thing? Some muscles when put under new strains have a hard time relaxing again. I recommend getting a little bouncy ball and rolling it along the tensed up areas to try to get some to release. Your hands are now athletes. They will need good training habits to stay healthy! Warm up your grip and wrists before your climb and keep them flexible with ball release work and stretching for down time.
Oh and while your at it, give your shoulders the same love.
 

rico

Well-Known Member
Location
redwoods
Yea my back, hands, knees, elbows and shoulders hurt like a mofo, but its that big chunk of saw dust that's been stuck in my LEFT EYE for a week thats driving me fucking Nutz. I sure hope it works its way out of my eyeball on its own or I might be forced to dig it out of there with a dessert spoon?

 
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Serf Life

Well-Known Member
Location
Maine Island
Hi, I started climbing a few months ago and since doing some more advanced moves out on limbs etc where I held the rope quite a bit with one hand for balance (double 12mm rope) I've had ache in the outside part of my hands (like down along the bone from the pinky finger and the one next to it. Think the pain is between those two bones).

I was wondering if you experienced climbers have a name for it, or know any tricks what to do about it. It feels like my hands (or the two smallest fingers) want to go inte the gripping position when they are at rest. Should I actively make them not bend? Stretch or exercise them in any certain way?

Or is it just some hereditary reumatism sneaking up on me in a most untimely manner?
Check out some past threads on the topic. Hand/wrist/shoulder pain etc searches will provide a bunch of info. Lots of input on diet and some supplements which have helped folks. Also, lots of conflicting opinions on rest vs. "man-ing up"...
 

RopeShield

Well-Known Member
Location
Ontario, Canada
pull your top eye lid over your lower eye lid and blink and roll your eyes
works almost all the time for me.
ash saw dust is the worst lichen sticks to yuour eyball like glue and this technique seems to work
and if that doesn't work you can use a neutral contact lense wash with the fine squirt tip to pwr wash the bit out;)
 

Mowerr

Well-Known Member
Location
Ny
pull your top eye lid over your lower eye lid and blink and roll your eyes
works almost all the time for me.
ash saw dust is the worst lichen sticks to yuour eyball like glue and this technique seems to work
and if that doesn't work you can use a neutral contact lense wash with the fine squirt tip to pwr wash the bit out;)
A doctor prescribed this technique to me too
 

Burrapeg

Well-Known Member
Location
Puget Sound
After a good climb (and being 66 years old), I am often rather sore just about everywhere. I soak in the bath tub that evening for about 45 minutes with the water as hot as I can stand it and 3 to 4 cups of epsom salt in it. The epsom salt is cheap in bulk at Cosco. Works great for relieving a lot of the soreness and I go right to sleep that night, then wake up feeling fantastic the next morning.
 

trenchfoot

Member
Location
Boston
One simple technique that helped me was to straighten my arm out completely when tending slack. Your inclination is to flex your bicep when you’re gripping the rope and trying to cinch up your hitch. Fully elongate your arm, elbow at 180 degrees. Way less exertion anytime you’re holding your place with your fist.
 

TimBr

Official Well Known Greeter
@Mwelander; Lots of interesting and useful advice in this thread. I'm not sure whether or not dehydration plays a part, but the use of electrolyte powders in your drinking water, or just buying ready-made products like Pedialyte, can prevent or relieve muscle cramping.

I'll leave a link here so that you can see the product I'm talking about. You'll have to find something similar available in your own country. Similar products are also sold in powder form, that you have to mix up yourself. It can be a lot less expensive purchased that way, if you find yourself wanting to use a lot of it. On a hot day, I might consume two or three one liter bottles worth of the stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Pedialyte-El...rds=Pedialyte&qid=1563796681&s=pantry&sr=8-18
 

moss

Well-Known Member
Hi, I started climbing a few months ago and since doing some more advanced moves out on limbs etc where I held the rope quite a bit with one hand for balance (double 12mm rope) I've had ache in the outside part of my hands (like down along the bone from the pinky finger and the one next to it. Think the pain is between those two bones).

I was wondering if you experienced climbers have a name for it, or know any tricks what to do about it. It feels like my hands (or the two smallest fingers) want to go inte the gripping position when they are at rest. Should I actively make them not bend? Stretch or exercise them in any certain way?

Or is it just some hereditary reumatism sneaking up on me in a most untimely manner?

I’ve been getting something similar lately, for me it’s doing notch/face cuts with a top handle, wrists can end up in extreme positions. I’m waiting it out and trying to improve my hand/wrist positions running a saw in a tree.
-AJ
 

Gibstbor

New Member
Location
England Coventry
I don't go as regularly as I did back in the day for climbing and the result is the same as yours. Sore hands and pain everywhere. I deal with it with painkillers and massages mostly. Climbing is really a passion for me, and I've never stopped since my teenage years to achieve new milestones. Back in the day we didn't have natural ways to deal with fatigue and pain but now with marijuana in the scene things have changed. However, I don't like buying it and I grow it myself in my little garden like 2 or 3 plants. I decided to start that after reading an article on https://herbceo.com/autoflowering-vs-feminized-seeds/ about seeds and all.
 
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