OP splice tips

Arborist1

Active Member
Location
United States
image.jpeg Well it was even worse than I thought it was gonna be. Was about to give up but managed to get one eye done. After several failed attempts to bury the core 2/3 of a fid length I had to settle for only 1/2 fid length. Once I muster up enough will power I'll throw another eye on the other end and then break test it.
 

ARLO

Well-Known Member
If it is giving you trouble I suspect you may be doing one of two things. Either you are not keeping enough tension on both sides of the splice when doing the bury, or you are not doing a long enough taper on the tail. Either of those things will make it difficult to complete the bury.

One thing you should consider is that 5/ 16" Ocean Poly is only rated at 4,950 lbs, which does not meet the 5,400 lb minimum for life support ropes. I am not sure what the the safety gurus might say about that. There are other 5/16" cords that test well above the minimums (e.g., Bee Line), so I generally use those.
 

Arborist1

Active Member
Location
United States
If it is giving you trouble I suspect you may be doing one of two things. Either you are not keeping enough tension on both sides of the splice when doing the bury, or you are not doing a long enough taper on the tail. Either of those things will make it difficult to complete the bury.

One thing you should consider is that 5/ 16" Ocean Poly is only rated at 4,950 lbs, which does not meet the 5,400 lb minimum for life support ropes. I am not sure what the the safety gurus might say about that. There are other 5/16" cords that test well above the minimums (e.g., Bee Line), so I generally use those.

The final bury didn't give me any troubles, it was burying the core from the crossover through the throat of the splice that was the difficult part. As for the safety concern from what I've heard op 8mm is shy of the 24.02kn in straight pull, however in a closed hitch it far exceeds the minimum ANSI requirement
 

Ragnar

Member
Location
Texas
I read a tip on here that helped me a lot, might even have been from ARLO....

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/splicing-velocity-and-tachyon.27903/

Why are you trying to bury the core so far? Samson's instructions say just 1/3 fid.

What is the finished length you are going for?

Shortest one I have made has was 32". The "theoretical" 5 fid min throat to throat for 8mm is 34" and 37" for 10mm.

Tree Stuff sells 28" spliced eye to eyes for both 8mm and 10mm OP so I would like to be able to get one down to 26" throat to throat. Need to figure out the tricks to making short ones.

i-sPNhNgn-M.jpg


i-zLB5B5c-M.jpg
 
Last edited:

Arborist1

Active Member
Location
United States
I read a tip on here that helped me a lot, might even have been from ARLO....

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/splicing-velocity-and-tachyon.27903/

Why are you trying to bury the core so far? Samson's instructions say just 1/3 fid.

What is the finished length you are going for?

Shortest one I have made has was 36". The "theoretical" 5 fid min throat to throat for 8mm is 34" and 37" for 10mm.

Tree Stuff sells 28" spliced eye to eyes for both 8mm and 10mm OP so I would like to be able to get one down to 26" throat to throat. Need to figure out the tricks to making short ones.

i-sPNhNgn-M.jpg


i-zLB5B5c-M.jpg

Hey thanks for the response,

Well, I went for a 2/3rds bury because I was going off of teufelbergers instruction since they are the manufacturer, but seriously I think it's impossible lol. I settled for half a fid which is what Yale uses. I've never done any of my double braid core burys using only 1/3 even though I know that's what Samsons directions are it just seems so short. Although with how hard the throat came out on this OP I'm sure it's more than fine.

As for the length I was shooting for right around 34". I can't conceptually see how it would be a problem to make it shorter. In fact in TreeU splicing series, Nick makes a 32" eye to eye out of 10mm epicord and it didn't seem to present any issues.

Also thanks for the link that is actually the strategy I use to bury my core already and have found it very helpful on tighter braids.

-chizmin
 

Ragnar

Member
Location
Texas
One end is easy assuming you are just working with the end of a long piece. The issue I have with making them sort is pulling enough of the core out to get to mark 3 on the second eye. I can only push the cover so far back against the already made eye.

Been debating buying that series, just haven't seen any reviews. Would you consider it worth it? Does it contain more than a visual presentation of widely available instructions from manufactures?
 

ARLO

Well-Known Member
These are 30". I used a long fid bury. I have not tried shorter versions.

OceanPoly.JPG
 

ARLO

Well-Known Member
I read a tip on here that helped me a lot, might even have been from ARLO....

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/splicing-velocity-and-tachyon.27903/

Why are you trying to bury the core so far? Samson's instructions say just 1/3 fid.

What is the finished length you are going for?

Shortest one I have made has was 32". The "theoretical" 5 fid min throat to throat for 8mm is 34" and 37" for 10mm.

Tree Stuff sells 28" spliced eye to eyes for both 8mm and 10mm OP so I would like to be able to get one down to 26" throat to throat. Need to figure out the tricks to making short ones.

Be careful about using the Samson Class 1 splicing instructions to splice Class 2 ropes. Although OP has a Class 1 core it has a Class 2 cover, and I suspect that may be why the manufacturer suggests a longer bury.
 

Arborist1

Active Member
Location
United States
image.jpeg

Just finished it, it runs 32" from the end of each eye and I did have just barely enough room on the second eye. The one with white tape uses 1/3 fid length core bury per Samsons instructions and the other end has 1/2 fid length per yales instructions. I'm gonna break it and see which end breaks first and at how many pounds. Arlo those look great, I can't believe you were able to bury the core a long fid, your skills are much greater than mine.

As for the splicing series I think it's well worth the 50bucks especially for me since I've only been splicing for like 6months. The series is far from perfect and they're many things I wish they would have done differently. Maybe I'll write a lengthy review on it one of these days to expound on what I mean.

I'll post pictures and data once I break this splice.

-chizmin
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 30

Ragnar

Member
Location
Texas
Be careful about using the Samson Class 1 splicing instructions to splice Class 2 ropes. Although OP has a Class 1 core it has a Class 2 cover, and I suspect that may be why the manufacturer suggests a longer bury.

Interesting. From my readings here I had the understanding OP was just a standard Class 1 splice.

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/ocean-polyester-eye-and-eye.23821/

Still very new to this but I thought a class 2 rope/splices involved brummels (like your beeline video) or a special kind of whipping. I didn't see any mention of what type of splice to use on Teufelbergers site.

Still a lot for me to learn.

Looking over the NE/Teufelberger splice instructions, I dont see any mention of class 1 or class II eye splices, just double braid.

http://www.teufelberger.com/en/products/splicing-guide.html

Looking at an ABR spliced sample, the core bury looks to be approx 2.75" (whipping right at end of the core).

i-qpJ7t8r-M.jpg


Might have to purchase a class 2 splice sample so I can see one in person.
 
Last edited:

Arborist1

Active Member
Location
United States
Interesting. From my readings here I had the understanding OP was just a standard Class 1 splice.

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/ocean-polyester-eye-and-eye.23821/

Still very new to this but I thought a class 2 rope/splices involved brummels (like your beeline video) or a special kind of whipping. I didn't see any mention of what type of splice to use on Teufelbergers site.

Still a lot for me to learn.

Looking over the NE/Teufelberger splice instructions, I dont see any mention of class 1 or class II eye splices, just double braid.

http://www.teufelberger.com/en/products/splicing-guide.html

Looking at an ABR spliced sample, the core bury looks to be approx 2.75" (whipping right at end of the core).

i-qpJ7t8r-M.jpg


Might have to purchase a class 2 splice sample so I can see one in person.


Class 2 just describes the fiber that the rope is made up of and usually class 2 fibers (vectran, Kevlar, dyneema, technora, etc.) require longer burys per the manufacturers specs. Ocean Polyester and Epicord both are made up (partially) of class 2 fibers but can be spliced using class 1 double braid instructions designed for class 1 fibers(polyester,nylon,olefin).

I must say it is a bit confusing on how long our core burys should be for both epicord and OP. I would say the safest bet would be to use the 2/3rds bury that teufelberger(the manufacture of both) recommends. It's funny though; on this step of 10mm epicord on the tree-u splicing series Nick says to bury a "short fid" or 1/3rd, the text that pops up on the screen says a 1/2 fid, and the video actually shows him doing a long fid(2/3rds). So which one is it? Lol
 

jfox8807

New Member
When I do my 10mm op splices I do class 1 eye splice for used rope saves time and hassle. I have never had any sign of failure. with that being said I don't think it matters a lot weather you get 1/3 of a fid or 2/3 of a fid bury on the core be cause it works well with out any of it being buried.
 

Phil

Well-Known Member
Location
Oak Lawn, IL
View attachment 40189

Just finished it, it runs 32" from the end of each eye and I did have just barely enough room on the second eye. The one with white tape uses 1/3 fid length core bury per Samsons instructions and the other end has 1/2 fid length per yales instructions. I'm gonna break it and see which end breaks first and at how many pounds. Arlo those look great, I can't believe you were able to bury the core a long fid, your skills are much greater than mine.

As for the splicing series I think it's well worth the 50bucks especially for me since I've only been splicing for like 6months. The series is far from perfect and they're many things I wish they would have done differently. Maybe I'll write a lengthy review on it one of these days to expound on what I mean.

I'll post pictures and data once I break this splice.

-chizmin
5 year old thread so shot in the dark here, but did you ever break test this?
 

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Kask Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger Tracked Lifts Climbing Innovations
Top Bottom