Isc rigging rope wrench tips, tricks, and uses

Barc Buster

Well-Known Member
@Merle Nelson requested a thread be started on the use of this device. So here we go I'll kick things off.

I don't typically take pictures so I don't have a lot of in tree pics to illustrate how to use this device. I found it helpful to think of it kind of like a hybrid between rings and a block. Friction kind of like rigging rings but ability to put some lift on the load. The new isc version has the added benefit of being midline attachable.

I mainly use it like a retrievable ring sling during pruning but it can handle light negative rigging. I am by no means an expert with this device. I've only been using the older singing tree version for around a year, and I just got the newer isc version a few weeks ago.

You can attach this thing just like a block to about any sling you like. Here I have it on a 1/2 inch ultra sling.
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20200529_143006.jpg 20200529_143011.jpg

Rigging rope goes through the sheave like this
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Then through the wrench like this.
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It has nice illustrations on the side to show you how to set it up, which is a nice feature.

I used the rigging wrench to flop a small spruce top today to illustrate about the largest I like to rig with this thing. Definitely not my first choice for this but it worked well. 20200529_150425.jpg

All the standard practices of block use apply here. I positioned the rigging wrench off center to mitigate potential for it getting pinched after the flop. Sorry forgot to take a pic. Here is a pic of the top to show size.
20200529_150644.jpg

That's it for now. I'll try to add pics as I think to take them. In the mean time if you have one and love to use it post up some pictures and show how your using them. Pass on that knowledge to arborists not familiar with this excellent aerial friction device.
 

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Jonny

Well-Known Member
Location
Buffalo
Honest question @Barc Buster , not trying to give you a hard time and like you said, it’s not a big piece; how easy do you think it’d be to exceed the safe working load on that 30kn pulley when negative rigging? Think this piece is as big as one should go? The old RigNWrench might’ve been a bit stronger, yeah?
32A94978-B164-4D44-9776-F41B272495D7.jpeg
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Location
Evansville
No pics at the moment but I like to use mine at the base of a hand tightened speedline and I've also used it on a high line to add friction to allow the other rope to lift and then haul instead of dragging material up the hill.

I'll make a drawing of the highline setup to clarify how it was set.
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Location
Evansville
I'll make a drawing of the highline setup to clarify how it was set.
Here is a quick drawing of how we used it. The blue rope was tensioned and locked off on the porta wrap, the yellow line was pulled by a mini skid. Below the rig-n-wrench is a carabiner and omni bloc. Without the wrench in this setup you would need a hold back line to keep the omni in place while lifting and then you'd release the hold back line while matching the pull line speed. The wrench eliminated the need for that hold back and then pulls back down the hill with minimal effort.

20200530_003554.jpg
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Location
Evansville
And what does it do for you on a hand tightened speed line?

We were tensioning a speed line with a Rope Jack today.
I'm a fan of the rope jack, but I wouldn't want those cams engaged while adding dynamic loads, of course it depends on the size that you are rigging.

The wrench by itself does not add any mechanical advantage for tensioning, but once its tight you can relax your grip because the wrench engages and takes some of the weight.

It'd be easy to add a friction hitch and pulley and make it a 3:1 as well if more pulling power was needed.
 

Barc Buster

Well-Known Member
Honest question @Barc Buster , not trying to give you a hard time and like you said, it’s not a big piece; how easy do you think it’d be to exceed the safe working load on that 30kn pulley when negative rigging? Think this piece is as big as one should go? The old RigNWrench might’ve been a bit stronger, yeah?
View attachment 68262
For negative rigging I personally wouldn't be comfortable going any bigger than this, but flip it around (positive rig) and any ground helper off the street can handle picks like this all day long.
 
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TimberSmith

New Member
Location
Sydney
Here is a copied message of some notes I wrote to a friend on the rig n wrench.

Hey mate so I've got an old rig n wrench and it stays in my rigging bag 99% of the time but when I use it is bloody handy to have.

The only times I get it out is when I'm rigging static loads where

1. There is no where convenient for the ground crew to install a friction device.

2. I'm doing tip tie lifting loads (over an obstacle) where I want the ground crew to lift a piece without friction but its heavy enough that friction will be applied to the load by the RnR when the piece is cut through.

3. I only have one groundy available for rigging in a tight drop zone. I can install the RnR he can hold the piece, when it is cut through I can take the rope from him and he can manoeuvre the piece into the drop zone.

4. On the ground to apply tension to a light duty speedline.

The device is a bit finecky it only likes certain rigging ropes (and not old beat up ones).

Its great to have friction at the top rigging point but no resistance when pulling back up the rope. But don't pull the rope up too far coz it's a drag to pull out slack again.

Small loads can be easily handled by small crews with this device. Coz you can take the rope in the tree it frees your groundys up.

Light loads can be easily pretensioned or lifted.

Oh yeah and some of the lighter pieces can be difficult to run on the device you need to either unclip the wrench part prior to loading if you can reach it or help drag the piece down by pulling on the rope.

Generally it cuts the weight of a piece to about a 1/3
 

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