Grapple: "log" or "brush" style?

evo

Been here a while
Location
My Island, WA
To add to this: with practice with a BMG you can also grab a vertical stem.
I’ve heard this and have extensively tried. Best I can figure is to pop the grapple by quickly going in forward then reverse then forward while squeezing?
I use the low flow for the grapple, and reserve the high for the winch.
 

Reach

Been here a while
Location
Atglen, PA
I’ve heard this and have extensively tried. Best I can figure is to pop the grapple by quickly going in forward then reverse then forward while squeezing?
I use the low flow for the grapple, and reserve the high for the winch.
Yes, that’s basically the idea, you have to get the jaws swinging and run them into the stem while they’re pointed forward.
 

Jehinten

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Evansville
I’ve heard this and have extensively tried. Best I can figure is to pop the grapple by quickly going in forward then reverse then forward while squeezing?
I use the low flow for the grapple, and reserve the high for the winch.
Grabbing near vertical wood is pretty easy without swinging the grapple around.

As far as vertical goes, if you don't mind to grab at ground level (which is a stronger position anyways for the mini/low and tight) open the grapple and set on the ground. Reverse and tilt down until its horizontal in front of you, then drive forward to grab the wood.

It causes a little turf damage where it drags the ground moving forward, but your already trying to pickup wood that landed vertically, so some damage has already occurred. Once tightened you can lift to get the wood and grapple out of the dirt.
 

flushcut

Branched out member
Location
Delavan, WI
I’ve heard this and have extensively tried. Best I can figure is to pop the grapple by quickly going in forward then reverse then forward while squeezing?
I use the low flow for the grapple, and reserve the high for the winch.
It's a timing thing as well. A quick move forward allowing the grapple to swing forward followed by closing the grapple quickly.
 
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southsoundtree

Been here a while
Location
Olympia, WA
To add to this: with practice with a BMG you can also grab a vertical stem.
High idle, lurch forward with open grapple, let the machine stop and grapple swing forward, grab with good timing.





Older (6 y.o.) BMGs allow a special maneuver where the tines can be carefully "parked" on the heel plate, not the loader arms.


Can help for pushing with the spikes. In tight situations.





If you have a large log to roll, and don't want to drag the grapples due to the surface, is a specialty, low-use trick. You can push with the boom, rather than spikes.
 

flushcut

Branched out member
Location
Delavan, WI
I've used all those tricks and they all work wonderfully. Tho you have to be careful "parking" the grapple on the heel plate or you can tweek the grapple tines. I know first hand. Heat and beat.
 
I've had a bmg for 5 years, I'm amazed by how it's held up over the years. We abuse it everyday, move huge amounts of brush and big wood and it just keeps going. The only scenario a root rake beats a bmg is in land clearing imo....and that's only for brush cleanup
 
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evo

Been here a while
Location
My Island, WA
High idle, lurch forward with open grapple, let the machine stop and grapple swing forward, grab with good timing.





Older (6 y.o.) BMGs allow a special maneuver where the tines can be carefully "parked" on the heel plate, not the loader arms.


Can help for pushing with the spikes. In tight situations.





If you have a large log to roll, and don't want to drag the grapples due to the surface, is a specialty, low-use trick. You can push with the boom, rather than spikes.
I think part of why this doesn’t work so well for me is I have the grapple plumbed on the low flow side, and the winch on the high flow side.

Down side of the winch is that it is very vulnerable when using the pushing spikes, and I have to be VERY carefully if pushing with the upper boom.

In time I’m planning on making a blade that slips in like the bmg rake. Not unlike a farmi skidding winch, I also designed the winch mounting plate to easily come off (two bolts for now but pins later). And plan on mounting it on a receiver tube and the receiver plate will also have a blade. The grand plan is to only have the winch on the grapple itself where taking it on and off is not practical.
 

Fivepoints

Branched out member
I've taken to driving it in and out. I'll likely be building my own to fit on the BMG, I understand that the round pipe makes sense for mass production but it bends too easily with regular use. I'm thinking a square tubing or even square stock
Mine tore up as well. Several other people's I work with have as well. Building a heavy duty one is on my to do list.
 

southsoundtree

Been here a while
Location
Olympia, WA
What size square tube fits the grapple? Mine round tube is egged out, and needs rebuilding/ reinforcing?




I was considering slipping a small 5/8" hitch pin- compatible pipe inside the round tube and weld it in place, if stock square tubing doesn't fit???

It might need an access hole cut into the round pipe for welding.
 

Jehinten

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Evansville
I was considering slipping a small 5/8" hitch pin- compatible pipe inside the round tube and weld it in place, if stock square tubing doesn't fit???
I've considered this as well, if it were me I'd only weld the outside. Cutting an access hole would likely weaken the round tube much further.


I haven't measured for the sq stock yet, I know I read that the round pipe was used because the square stock would not fit due to the weld inside the existing frame. Production wise it cost too much to get rid of that internal weld. I think for ones own equipment either that weld could be ground flat, or grind a channel down the towing adapter to allow it to fit.
 

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