F8 Revolver Advice?

VoodooViolinist

New Member
Location
SW Washington
Basically a newbie in that I am picking this up for fun and tentatively some side work with arborist friends, that being said with limited funds at the moment I have been checking out this F8 Revolver as opposed to dropping on the rope wrench quite yet with SRT. So I have used this method on a thinner rope (8.7mm) with a Edelrid Carabiner (with the Steel running edge) and a 1.5" inner diameter Aluminum ring and the friction/slide on the decent was smooth, but still created enough of a bite to slow descent. Now here is the catch, I finally got REAL climbing rope for a steal (200 ft of Blue River Safeline for $60 brand new), but it is 12.5mm, which means my ring is WAY too small. I found a link that was able to fit the line, but even then with the biner, it end up creating an occasional kink when descending, and it's opening was 2.25 inches, but also shaped like a Link, not a ring. I love the simplicity of this for helping on descent, so hoping someone may have experience with the F8 Revolver on some BIG line, XD.
 

seedy j

New Member
Location
winnipeg
I used to use a figure eight with a biner. That's probably more than you'd want to spent, if that's all you'd be using it for.
 

Jonny

Well-Known Member
Location
Buffalo
Best advice is hurry up and secure yourself a rope wrench, or check out that Sticht hitch thread someone linked on the other thread. But still get the wrench, you’ll never regret it.

If your ring has a 1.5” inside diameter, that’s a large ring. There might be bigger ones but I’m not familiar with them. Message me with an address and I’ll send ya a Figure 8 though, I got a CMI one that I’ll probably never use again, the big hole on the F8 is at least 2” I think.
 

VoodooViolinist

New Member
Location
SW Washington
Best advice is hurry up and secure yourself a rope wrench, or check out that Sticht hitch thread someone linked on the other thread. But still get the wrench, you’ll never regret it.

If your ring has a 1.5” inside diameter, that’s a large ring. There might be bigger ones but I’m not familiar with them. Message me with an address and I’ll send ya a Figure 8 though, I got a CMI one that I’ll probably never use again, the big hole on the F8 is at least 2” I think.
For real??? Well sir you are a gentleman and a scholar! I have figured out something stitch hitch like after that thread was revealed to me, but yeah, that thread also blew my mind in terms of variants. I am actually working on modifying a Petzl Bobbin to be a rope wrench too, I think I can modify it to achieve the same function and then also be functional as a traditional bobbin for whatever application viable.... This is what I got so far for the stitch hitch though
 

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VoodooViolinist

New Member
Location
SW Washington
I know this, but before there was mechanical, there was physics! And I am flat broke for a while, like I don't do arborist work, I just got a perfect job for my needs, but as a hobbyist, I am investing where prudent. I will probably get a hitchclimber or pinto pulley in the future, because they are awesome, but 7 bucks on two rings, each rated 14kn and some cordage to get quite a responsive system, well shit, XD, I can play AND save for the good stuff! Which I am totally open for insight and suggestions, as I will most likely get to investing EVENTUALLY!
 

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Brocky

Well-Known Member
Location
Michigan
You might have too much friction than needed by using the loop, any reason you prefer them over a single cord?
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Location
Evansville
I agree with others about buying the wrench (if the stitcht hitch doesn't work out) but that said if you wanted to cheap out you can build a wrench that will work better than a f8. I tried out the wrench briefly with a diy wrench made from gate hardware, I already had a HH2 at this point and wanted to try a wrench. Ended up not using it more than a couple of rec climbs and bought a rope runner to have two SRT devices.

Edited: here is a picture of the one that I made. The tether is 12 strand hollow braid with a piece of 1/8" lexan taped to it for rigidity. Soon after this picture I swapped out that removable pin for a rope wrench slicpin for a more secure attachment.
 

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southsoundtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Olympia, WA
After the box wrench RW, there was the wooden RW, now there are easy DIY RWs with a strap hinge.

Wooden ones are easy to make and effectively free. Not midline attachable.
 

VoodooViolinist

New Member
Location
SW Washington
This seems like an appropriate place to share! First off, thanks Brocky for eagerly wanting to share wisdom, hell thanks everyone here who all are so open to share a new level of freedom for a normie like myself. The F8 Revolver just seems fun and fluid, how I feel life SHOULD (although we all know fun is a matter of how you look at things), so while I wait for the opportunity to put this little thing into action in a tree, I feel like I found something here. It uses the second hole of a figure 8 to tie a bottom leg of a friction hitch onto my cord, the reduction in friction from the f8 and the hitch in this configuration seems to lock like a normal hitch? I was able to use it was a foot anchor hanging from my ceiling, with hand keeping me upright (sorry for the bad second shot, trying to not spin with changing camera angles provided an interesting challenge), but there is the thing, the green line acts like the normal F8, so normal setup like descent, the thing is (and I am working on what will be function from this, hope we can all play) but at the moment it seems to be able to tend me for a 2:1 pulley from my tail in limb walk config, anchor me with my foot, yet still tend up with little work to the line (not much knot tbh, but yeah, it held a bounce to lock in for me (155 lbs)). The thing is, the orange line, if ran like the green, becomes a bite than the green (more friction if you desire, on the F8 still) and to ease off between the green and the orange tension levels (ie you want to not get full stop, but you think the green is too fast, you hang some beaners on the orange line in the gap between the f8 and the biner, effectively creating a wedge to minimize full deployment. There is a sitback to the descend more, for the f8 to be pulled to the line parallel (so hence the wedge to stop that a bit), but then the F8 running parallel forces a larger bend). I found this was A LOT friction, so I honestly had been playing with friction hitches like crazy, between 1.5" inner rings, the oval carabiner worked wonders, but the thought then occurred, why could you add a hitch to this config? I added a single leg over itself that tightens when pulled. This with the F8 Revolver held me bouncing into it. SO I know this is probably not a life supporting stitch hitch application, but it has made this capable of foot ascending and even 2:1 pulley of my weight up the line, so kind of cool. I see the once thing is if yanked too hard, it might slip, but again, not life support. I see the worse would be, located above friction hitch, yanking on it like a 2:1 pulley, you pull too hard and send it down the line into your hitch and your slide back on it, as long as you have the green anchored still, you have slow down descent if your hitch fails and ideal it should catch on the slow? Still feel this just makes things safer as option, but yeah, has this been done before?
 

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moss

Well-Known Member
After the box wrench RW, there was the wooden RW, now there are easy DIY RWs with a strap hinge.

Wooden ones are easy to make and effectively free. Not midline attachable.

As it turns out "Not midline attachable" is not much of a problem, I often intall my Rope Wrench/tether/Hitchclimber pulley combo on to the end of the rope, then tie the hitch and attach it to the system after I've pulled the tail through. Likewise with my Rope Runner, I can count on one hand the number of times I've attached it midline in hundreds of climbs.
-AJ
 

VoodooViolinist

New Member
Location
SW Washington
SO I ASSUME NO ONE HAS EVEN TRIED THIS. Honestly, rope wrench doesn't work as a foot anchor or have the ability to attach a pulley to it for 2:1 purposes, so this change makes this more functional than a RW... and cheaper...

"edit" Not trying to sound snarky, I realize this is working season and as someone looking to make things happen on a budget, ie use what I have so I can spend money on things I need, ie food, rent and savings towards fixing my home/ vehicle. Simplicity is my aim, one for the notion of less things to mess up and two for the simple idea of being able to keep the basics on me at all times and when the need calls, GO. I realize the rope runner and rope wrench are great tools for the purpose of climbing, but again, this is cheaper and while maybe not as inherently fluid, it offers two in one for the purpose of one tool, and it does both features without any changeover, like rope runner isn't letting your attach a foot anchor or pulley to it? You'd have to attach an additional friction hitch or piece of equipment. This you just utilize the second tail and the original descending feature is more or less unchanged with the addition of the second hitch, if sized appropriately, it tends itself, It can jump to the top ring, but that just creates a stop, nothing like a catastrophic failure. Like the second tail even acts as an emergency brake in the event your harness hitch fails? I just see so many possibilities out of a simple configuration addition.
 
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moss

Well-Known Member
SO I ASSUME NO ONE HAS EVEN TRIED THIS. Honestly, rope wrench doesn't work as a foot anchor or have the ability to attach a pulley to it for 2:1 purposes, so this change makes this more functional than a RW... and cheaper...

"edit" Not trying to sound snarky, I realize this is working season and as someone looking to make things happen on a budget, ie use what I have so I can spend money on things I need, ie food, rent and savings towards fixing my home/ vehicle. Simplicity is my aim, one for the notion of less things to mess up and two for the simple idea of being able to keep the basics on me at all times and when the need calls, GO. I realize the rope runner and rope wrench are great tools for the purpose of climbing, but again, this is cheaper and while maybe not as inherently fluid, it offers two in one for the purpose of one tool, and it does both features without any changeover, like rope runner isn't letting your attach a foot anchor or pulley to it? You'd have to attach an additional friction hitch or piece of equipment. This you just utilize the second tail and the original descending feature is more or less unchanged with the addition of the second hitch, if sized appropriately, it tends itself, It can jump to the top ring, but that just creates a stop, nothing like a catastrophic failure. Like the second tail even acts as an emergency brake in the event your harness hitch fails? I just see so many possibilities out of a simple configuration addition.

What you've got looks interesting but I don't know what you mean when you say the Rope Wrench or Rope Runner "doesn't work as a foot anchor" or "doesn't have the ability to attach a pulley to it for 2:1 purposes". Please elaborate on what you mean by "doesn't work as a foot anchor". As far as mechanical advantage goes, either can be quickly converted to a 2:1 (MRS) or 3:1 (SRS) by several possible simple configuraitons.

Before you say "The Rope Wrench or Rope Runner can't do this or do that" you need to understand the full functionality of the devices.
-AJ
 

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