Clutch/sprocket (I think) squeeling....*yet again*....any tips for getting grease there w/o removing clutch?

eyehearttrees

New member
Location
Tampa-Area
Title sums it up really, I hate having to remove clutch/sprocket assembly to get hard grease (calcium sulfonate 'marine grease' is what I usually use here) where I need it, any tips/tricks? Was thinking of 'watering-down' the marine grease with a viscous oil and applying that way!! Already tried the spray-can White Lithium but no luck with that :/

3rd time I'm dealing with this....fear it's my own fault somehow, although I long-ago ceased doing my 'solvent cleanouts' (using brake-cleaner spray to clear my clutch/sprocket area after use..that'll wash-out the hard grease quick!)

Thanks for any tips/insight here!!

(PS- for context- this is the type of on/off, minor squeeling that occurs when the saw is idling)
 

Birdyman88

Branched out member
Location
Arlington
3rd time I'm dealing with this....fear it's my own fault somehow, although I long-ago ceased doing my 'solvent cleanouts' (using brake-cleaner spray to clear my clutch/sprocket area after use..that'll wash-out the hard grease quick!)
My first instinct is if you were flushing out the clutch area with brake cleaner, then you probably flushed the grease out of the sealed bearing, and that may be what's squeaking/squealing.
 

Merle Nelson

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
SF Bay Area, CA
Preventative maintenance will handle it.

Some of my bigger Husky have a grease hole at end of shaft to needle grease gun it.

Copy that method by drilling two of your own holes. (Risk that burrs left instantly trash bearings.)
 
It is called a drive sprocket bearing or at least what Oregon calls it. It rides between the clutch drum and crankshaft.

I dont think the spray type lithium grease is going to last. Or recommended

When I grease the ones on my saws I pack them like a wheel bearing. Here is a pic of STIHL sprocket bearing grease. Part number 0781 120 1114.
IMG_20210610_224553.jpg
 
If you have an inboard clutch take the e clip off so you can remove the clutch drum. Bearing usually stays on the crankshaft, but sometimes sticks in the drum.

On an outboard clutch you have to remove the clutch.

Some Husqvarna models had a hole drilled threw the crankshaft to allow the bearing to be greased with out removing any components.

Stihl never offered anything like that. To my knowledge.
 
Most drive sprocket bearings on stihl saws dont have a metal cage on the bearing. With heat and duty cycles the can become malformed, and need to be replaced.

Husqvarna and dolmar/makita use a metal cage.

Not that one is better then the other just saying.
 

southsoundtree

Been here a while
Location
Olympia, WA
If you have an inboard clutch take the e clip off so you can remove the clutch drum. Bearing usually stays on the crankshaft, but sometimes sticks in the drum.

On an outboard clutch you have to remove the clutch.

Some Husqvarna models had a hole drilled threw the crankshaft to allow the bearing to be greased with out removing any components.

Stihl never offered anything like that. To my knowledge.
Roger that.

Thanks.
 

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