Captain Hook Setup Questions

Birdyman88

Well-Known Member
Location
Arlington
Finally picked one up on sale from Bartlett Arborist supply for $131, and am trying to decide how to set this thing up. The primary use I see for it is secondary work positioning device when I'm way out in a spready tree, when I'm on something skinny, or when my main line doesn't have clear run from TIP and the angles are not favorable. I've been doing it the hard way for a long time just so I don't have to set a secondary system, but this thing just looks too simple to not use in these scenarios.

1) Have any of you used a quicklink from rope eye to hook, and have you ever had any issues with the link snagging on little stubs?
2) Have you found a hitch cord and rope config that works decent (for work positioning purposes) without using an SRT device like RW or HH?
3) What minimum rope length have you found that works for you?
 

Burrapeg

Well-Known Member
Location
Puget Sound
I have had a small oval SS quicklink on mine ever since I bought it. This lets me detach the rope if I want to, without messing about with the bolt in the little shackle that comes with the device. Doesn't seem to snag or otherwise be a problem. The rope is a 30 footer and has been OK for me since I found that with a longer rope I was such a bad shot that anything much further away than about 25 to 30 feet simply took too many shots and wasted energy.
 

Bob Bob

Well-Known Member
Location
somewhere
Here are some thoughts from a recreational tree climber.

1. I've used a large SS quick link to connect the hook to a sewn eye. Attaching the hook directly to the eye will obviously give you the lightest and most streamlined set-up but is very convenient to be able to easily remove the hook if needed. I've never had a problem with the quick link snagging on anything. I don't recommend a carabiner since they are bulky and there is a chance of side loading.

2. I use a Trango Cinch and it's great. I've tried hitch set-ups but a SRT device works so much better and captures more of the progress (no sit back). Sometimes it is nice to descend a bit on the hook line too. Trying to fine tune your position and descend on a single line hitch is a pain and a lot of work. Can you use a hitch? Yes. Is a SRT device better? Yes.

3. No less than 35' and no more than 50'. If your feeling lucky you can always use the tail of your climbing rope.

Lots of set-up ideas here: https://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/dmm-throw-hook.30556/
 
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Brocky

Well-Known Member
Location
Michigan
Make a twist of the back braid will make a working Sticht. How it grabs and slides can be adjusted by the distance between the wraps and ring.
27”, but it has an experimental, more reduced volume splice than typically done, so more flexible for the bends of the twist.
 

Birdyman88

Well-Known Member
Location
Arlington
Hey @Brocky thanks man. Just tested the Sticht with several cords on my 11mm HTP. So far, 5 wraps with 30" Sterling Flex 8mm is doing pretty good. Good enough to get me going anyway. 8mm Beeline and OP are also promising, but my 26" lengths are too short to conclude anything solid. HRC is a no go for me. Funny how I always keep going back to Beeline and OP on just about everything.
 
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Brocky

Well-Known Member
Location
Michigan
With the adjustability of the hitch, I’m finding that the many types of cords, and different diameters can be made to work.
Using a 5-6 foot piece of cord with a stopper makes for a compact hitch.
489EF97F-5B9C-4A32-A09D-B0EFE6FAA50F.jpeg
There’s a thread on the Sticht on the Stationary Rope forum for further info.
 

Merle Nelson

Well-Known Member
Location
SF Bay Area, CA
Hanging a bunch of extra stuff on The Captain looks like it might detract from one of the features I love about mine in the kit form from Tree Stuff. If my throw was bad but the hook firmly caught on something I can pretty easily unhook it by rolling slack into the line and throw again for the desired hook up.
 

Burrapeg

Well-Known Member
Location
Puget Sound
Hanging a bunch of extra stuff on The Captain looks like it might detract from one of the features I love about mine in the kit form from Tree Stuff. If my throw was bad but the hook firmly caught on something I can pretty easily unhook it by rolling slack into the line and throw again for the desired hook up.
Mine seems to work OK in that regard, using the small stainless oval quick link. The link is no larger in section than the shackle on the hook.
 

evo

Well-Known Member
Location
My Island, WA
I don’t use mine much, and I like splicing.

I have a 20-25’ piece of velocity on it and use it like a second double ended laynard.

Trango on the hook end, distal on the other.

I’ve thought about going for 30-40’ of 10mm to see if that improved my throw, but I can’t throw to well anymore since the days of old school ddrt are long past
 

Birdyman88

Well-Known Member
Location
Arlington
I know I'll probably never switch the hook to another line, but if I did, that nylon lock nut is a one use nut, and it's important. Just one more thing to have to source out in that event. But I do like the steamlining of not having a QL in the system. BTW, they sent one extra nut.
 

Lignotuber

New Member
Location
Socal
Does anyone else just pop the rope through and tie a barrel knot as a stopper? Not as balanced but easy and less likely to get caught up on something.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Location
Lancaster, PA
I use mine on my lanyard (I like a 20' lanyard) almost more than any other method. I tried a dedicated rope, but it just got in the way. Now, should I need more length than my lanyard offers, I tie it to the end of my climbing line.

The croll on the suspenders of my Ergo Pro and the ever-present foot ascender, allows me to traverse. The HMS carabiner and a munter hitch allows the opposite.

Tony
 

Z'sTrees

Well-Known Member
Location
NW NC
I use 50ish feet of 8mm double braid spliced to the hook. 8mm HRC tied in a michaocan with a couple extra wraps. Then use a small thimble to tend.

The small rope is great to throw but hard on the hands. I use my foot ascender to do the brunt of the work.

The hitch works srt just fine for me an the whole thing fits in a small ditty bag. I'm not big on having a bunch of stuff hanging off my saddle.

I mostly use mine in view pruning. Can go up one tree and traverse across several moving my tie in as I go. Good tool for that, otherwise it's decent for getting out to the tips on rainy days.
 

Birdyman88

Well-Known Member
Location
Arlington
Here's the hitch setup I ended up going with on 30' of 11mm HTP. 5 wrap 34" Sterling RIT 8mm, sewn eyes, SMC small rings, HC pulley. I really, really liked it with a pinto pulley, placing the eyes inside sheave, but that did not give me the extra hole to clip chest harness if I ever needed it. FWIW, I used 5 wraps with same length of OP 8mm and it worked just as well. I just like the aramid sheath of the RIT better for this. The Sterling Flex 8mm was good, but had a little more variability in the grab. I spent about an hour outside testing doing various work positioning simulations and it worked almost as well as my 8mm Beeline RW setup. To finish it all up, I will put an eye on the HTP and use a 9mm quicklink to hook.
0810201049.jpg
 

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