Bandit feed wheel springs.

image.jpg It looks very simple but I'm realty not sure if these springs are suppose to be adjusted or not. Are they as tight as they go now or are they as loose as they Go?? I find the feed wheels really spin on small pieces of brush and don't really suck in the Brush very well. It doesn't have hydraulic up and down feed wheels
 
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Jeff

Well-Known Member
Right now, you have them set as tight as they'll go. If you read the manual (who does that???) they say to set them there for small brush, one of the two intermediate holes for most branches, and the lowest hole for large logs. They actually imply that you should adjust them as the job progress. Right. We have ours on the tightest setting and adjust them… when they break or we're doing some major repair/maintenance work.
 

Pelorus

Well-Known Member
Stanley garage door springs from Home Depot are on my Bandit 65 and they work nicely. Just sayin'
The real McCoy alternative from the Bandit bandit (Nortrax) probably would have been spendy, and not stocked, of course.
 

craneguy1

Well-Known Member
Set as tight as they go yes...but might not be the proper length for that machine....if they were original theyd be painted...replacements are not....unless your dealer does it for you.
 

Jeff

Well-Known Member
but might not be the proper length for that machine.
I was wondering that myself. If they are too loose, you could always tension them another 2" by putting the upper pin across the top of the spring pocket, rather than through the top hole. If you're worried about it sliding around, take your angle grinder and make a small depression for the pin to set in.
 
That's a great idea. Maybe I will stretch them out a bit more and put the pin ontop. As they sit now they do have a lot of free play in them
 
Oh really. That is very interesting. I'll order some from my local bandit dealer and hopefully see them in 6 months of I'm lucky!
Thanks for all your help guys. I love this site for this kind of stuff.
 

craneguy1

Well-Known Member
When im back around the shop i could measure the length needed for a 150/200 if that helps. Wouldnt be until sunday though.
 

Merle Nelson

Well-Known Member
Will pull a spring and measure it on my 90XP in an hour or so. Spring tube hole patterns are the same but round tubes on mine purchased last year.
 

Merle Nelson

Well-Known Member
14 3/8 inches outside distance coil to coil. 17 1/4 O.D. spring hook to spring hook.

I'll bet that is going to measure the same as yours. I put the pin in the top adjustment hole like you have yours pictured, slid the bottom pin back into place, and I can still move the spring up and down about 3/4 of an inch. (No spring tension comes into use until small brush lifts feed wheel more than 3/4 of an inch.)
 

Merle Nelson

Well-Known Member
I thought about this a bit as I was pulling the spring and realized that there are other factors that come into play. For instance I have an older Bandit 65AW that was slipping more than I wanted and I felt the feed wheel to have rounded teeth. I took a 4 inch angle grinder and cleaned those edges up to make them crisp again. This helped some, but not as much as I wanted.

Ultimately I found that being finicky about keeping a sharp edge on the cutting knives made the most difference in pulling in small, or any, brush. I only run clean material through the chipper and I dress the knives every four hours of chipping or so with a hand sharpener/dressing tool.

Also on the 90XP there is a dead zone of about 12 to 14 inches between the knives and the feed wheel. Stuff, especially small brush, will get wedged in there and start to bring other lifting and wedging forces to play. I have lift and crush on my 90XP so I reach over and bump that first. Sometimes even that is not enough and I reverse the feed wheels and run the material in again. On some brush and some days that is not enough either and I make sure I keep selected branches with bigger wood off to the side to put through with larger amounts and the last of the small brush.
 

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