treeGiant
New Member
Heres my latest video of a tulip removal making way for a new house to be built. let me know what you think/ pick my editing and climbing to pieces.
Cheers
27m Tulip dismantle, feedback wanted
- Thread starter treeGiant
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- arborkiwi tree removal
Heres my latest video of a tulip removal making way for a new house to be built. let me know what you think/ pick my editing and climbing to pieces.
Cheers
ROYCE
Well-Known Member
Nice work Mate!! I love it when you can just smash down pieces with no worries about the lawn or ground. We are doing a job this Thursday that is going to be he same as your video. Clearing trees to make room for a garage. Just smashing pieces down.
TreeLogic
Well-Known Member
I like the way you were plunge cutting the horizontal limbs and then tripping the top cut. Have to try that. Nice frisbee launch with that extra face cut material. 
The lawn dart at end.....mehh. Good vid
The lawn dart at end.....mehh. Good vid
southsoundtree
Well-Known Member
Good work. At 2:35, a narrow face and humboldt might have landed it flatter.
treeGiant
New Member
Cheers guys! I must try humbolts on big timber.
That technique is called bore & release prevents barbers chair/ ripping massive hinges outI like the way you were plunge cutting the horizontal limbs and then tripping the top cut. Have to try that. Nice frisbee launch with that extra face cut material.
Daniel
Well-Known Member
you have good falling skills and apply them to the high work well... its would have been hard to land that last bit flat, no matter how you cut it.. cutting them at 18-20% of height will result in 1.5 flips (half-somersaults) and a flat landing...
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flyingsquirrel25
Well-Known Member
Nice job.
I have found narrowing your face cuts in the tree allow the hinges to break a little sooner while the top is still at a 45 deg or higher. The butt tends to slide off and most of the time they land flat... But who really cares, they are building a house, there will be no lawn left anyhow. Right place for the right techniques.
Great job.
I have found narrowing your face cuts in the tree allow the hinges to break a little sooner while the top is still at a 45 deg or higher. The butt tends to slide off and most of the time they land flat... But who really cares, they are building a house, there will be no lawn left anyhow. Right place for the right techniques.
Great job.
Daniel
Well-Known Member
I did try landing a longer piece flat today and it worked.. Salami undercut (no notch or face) and salami top cut, slight bypass.. gave it a little push from the bucket and she half slid off as she started going over and landed flat.. good chance of bar pinch on anything too heavy though
CutHighnLetFly
Well-Known Member
i twist them off when i do that out of the bucket. ive had more luck that way getting them in the position i want before they are off the stem beginning the fall.
and i keep a pocket wedge around
and i keep a pocket wedge around
treevet
Well-Known Member
doesn't seem like you even needed to make that last cut in the tree...just flop it from the ground.
treeGiant
New Member
Aside from the whole other half of the tree sitting next to the 11kv power lines.
you often cant see the full picture from the video
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treevet
Well-Known Member
What did taking that chunk off have to do with doing the hard side? And if those wires are as close as you say, why wasn't the main lead used for lowering...given you obviously don't have a bucket or crane? Seems the way you handle a saw you are fairly new at this job?
You got any vid of you doing the other leader?
Shame that big beautiful healthy tulip had to be demolished when a house is nearby and how they gonna put another house in that spot?
You got any vid of you doing the other leader?
Shame that big beautiful healthy tulip had to be demolished when a house is nearby and how they gonna put another house in that spot?
treeGiant
New Member
Alright seems i'm going to have to explain this extensively for you to understand. I felled out that big section from the tree because where it met the other leader was around 3-4m off the ground (included also). I also didn't want to be spiking the downside of the lean with a 880. The other side of the tree was majorly done with a over center bucket. We didn't want to rig off the other leader as the canopy spread was 36m (we used a clinometer for the precise measurements FYI) so the top branches that the mwep couldn't reach where either bought back a few meters then scarfed away from the lines or rigged for the bigger ones.
The big bit doesn't have anything to do with the lines, just wanted it lower so its out of the way more and then hiab could come get some of the logs out of the way.We have 2 bucket trucks at this branch. We don't need cranes often here (New Zealand) so we rent them when we need them. Can you point out where i handled the saw that made me look new? Yes, i have some footage of the other leader but as i said the bucket did most of it (i am not a bucket operator) And yes it is a shame there is currently 2 big diggers on this site as i drove past yesterday, they a building right where i was felling stuff into.
I think i got everything let me know if i missed something. A lot of questions to answer.
Cheers
treevet
Well-Known Member
OK...so...the whole thing seemed a bit of a sham to me. All this raucous music and big production for blowing out some easy droppers. The listed fact that you had someone else finish the hard part of the tree for you. Later revealed someone with a bucket truck came in so...Question why he did not just do the easy part you did too.
The fact you put this up and ASK for criticism. The big hoorah scream and plunge cut production on dropping the 2nd to bottom limb when you just could have put a bottom cut on it and matching top cut with no barber chair in my opinion.
You said you must try a Humboldt in big timber sometime and you made one at 29 and again at 112.
Just the way you handle a saw, for example in the sequence 127 to 134 (you looked scared, not confident)(back and forth unsmooth cutting, had the top over torqued by your groundies (notice the holding wood failure) so it broke off not using hinge, missed vertex of notch with finishing cut, etc etc). Newby kinda stuff, no biggie.
And like said...given the whole tree had to be removed, why would anyone remove a great lowering point for the road side just to blow out leads for a video? But that question answered re bucket truck.
So how long HAVE you been removing trees? Am I right Mr. Giant mate?
The fact you put this up and ASK for criticism. The big hoorah scream and plunge cut production on dropping the 2nd to bottom limb when you just could have put a bottom cut on it and matching top cut with no barber chair in my opinion.
You said you must try a Humboldt in big timber sometime and you made one at 29 and again at 112.
Just the way you handle a saw, for example in the sequence 127 to 134 (you looked scared, not confident)(back and forth unsmooth cutting, had the top over torqued by your groundies (notice the holding wood failure) so it broke off not using hinge, missed vertex of notch with finishing cut, etc etc). Newby kinda stuff, no biggie.
And like said...given the whole tree had to be removed, why would anyone remove a great lowering point for the road side just to blow out leads for a video? But that question answered re bucket truck.
So how long HAVE you been removing trees? Am I right Mr. Giant mate?
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treeGiant
New Member
Because i believe credit is given where credit is due. Also i wasn't on the tree the second day i was on another job bucket truck came in because of how close the bottom branches where to the lines, inside the MADS i also did half the other side FYI.
I put it up and asked for feedback on my climbing and editing etc, because i wanted to see if anyone would pick up on anything unsafe or anything to improve on.
I yelled out wooooo because i was having a good time. Both of those humbolts where on lateral branches i said i wanted to try it on big timber EG big trunk sections
What was i doing wrong handling the saw? how can you say i look scared/ not confident? you can only see my hands mate lol. Also I was puling the saw out because it got bogged out in the timber
I have been climbing 4 years
I put it up and asked for feedback on my climbing and editing etc, because i wanted to see if anyone would pick up on anything unsafe or anything to improve on.
I yelled out wooooo because i was having a good time. Both of those humbolts where on lateral branches i said i wanted to try it on big timber EG big trunk sections
What was i doing wrong handling the saw? how can you say i look scared/ not confident? you can only see my hands mate lol. Also I was puling the saw out because it got bogged out in the timber
I have been climbing 4 years
CutHighnLetFly
Well-Known Member
Vet doesnt everyone look new when you been doing it for so long ol' man?
Said in a joking manner with much respect, i just couldnt help it
Said in a joking manner with much respect, i just couldnt help it
treevet
Well-Known Member
he wanted "feedback"...gave it all I had...I'm out.
Pretty competent work going on there...but I was right...4 years.
Pretty competent work going on there...but I was right...4 years.
treeGiant
New Member
why does 4 years matter? its completely different over here in new zealand!
Sgriff
Well-Known Member
I wasn't gonna comment cause you did fine,but its just the way you handle the saw,imo, not confident is right,as in lack of conviction in your movements and saws didn't seem so sharp. It's nothing you should take offense to,you did good,that other shit will come naturally in time.
