193T Help

Hi all, new to the site. I was referred to this site from some people I just met at an arborists show. I am a Stihl dealer and I had a 193t on my table and pretty much every person said that it was a junk saw with no mid range. I've spent the last hour checking out posts and seeing some tips here and there on several types of saw. All very good info since Im a tech as well and i want to have an answer for customers that want a 193 or bought one and looking for it to run. Hope you all can help!!


Active Member
I found the 193 to be very lack luster as well. I do a mild muffler mod, advance the ignition timing, and properly tune the saw. The difference is amazing for such simple mods. Not only is throttle response and spool up MUCH better, but the power and RPMs held in the cut are much improved as well. It makes a very nice saw with these simple mods.

What kind of muffler mod are we talking? I've seen people take a die grinder to the exit side of the exhaust or change the port them selves. I may have a question on a 026 pro as well.


Run about 5 tanks though it and it's like a switch is thrown to make the saw run better. Muffler modded my 193 last month and the difference is amazing.


Well-Known Member
Just reviving an older thread. So I posted yesterday about my new Echo 2511T with 12" bar. I was so impressed with it out of the box, that I thought my Stihl 193T with a 14" bar might just get obsoleted and I would need to cough up dough for a 201T with a 16" for the bigger stuff. Honestly, the 193T with a muffler mod and carb adjusted (not in cut mind you) usually gets the job done in the tree, but it does have it's limits, mainly the 14" bar. As my experience grows, I have found myself meeting up with larger wood in the tree. My ideal scenario would be to have the 2511T with 12" as light pruning, and run a 16" bar on the 193T and have a poor man's 201T. But honestly, the 193T was just making it with the 14" bar. So, it's time to advance the timing.

Spent about an hour in the shop today. I got the flywheel off using an impact wrench and tapping lightly on the crankshaft with a punch and hammer. I had some really good lighting, some 3.75 strength reading glasses, and some tiny files that I picked up at home depot last year. I was only shooting for about .022" off the key for 6* advance. I overshot slightly and got 6.6* measured at the outer perimeter of flywheel using some calipers and knowing the flywheel diameter. Reassembled, torqued flywheel nut to 18 ft-lb. Just for grins, I put the 16" bar on.

It cranked right up and I let it warm up. I noticed that the low and idle did seem off, so I started with the low, got it in the sweet spot and set the idle. I took it up to some oak logs, set the high to factory setting (all the way CCW rich) and put it WOT in the cut. Definitely too rich to start. Several tweaks toward lean (about 3/8-1/2 CW) and it finally stayed smooth without 4-stroking in the cut.

The verdict? DAMN! This is NOT the same saw. And it pulls the 16" bar just fine. It oils good too as I checked it before I started cutting. Note, I did widen the oil holes slightly a while back. The saw use to have a habit of catching and stopping in heartwood every now and then, but not anymore. It never hung once. I made about 20-30 cuts with it.

Whenever I used to run the 193T, I always thought to myself that I was never too worried about linear kickback with it because honestly, I was always strong enough to hold on to it and at least get it to bog down. Now ... uhhhh ... this is the first time I've ever really thought that this saw could actually come out of the cut, especially if I'm in a less than perfect position. I just had that heightened sense of awareness when it was running WOT. Anyway, good news is that I can now put the bigger tree saw at the bottom of the wish list.
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