Yale Kernmaster splicing

Discussion in 'The Splice Rack' started by roxy, Jan 28, 2014.

  1. bonner1040

    bonner1040 Well-Known Member

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    I can't say without looking at the reports but suffice it to say its over 5400 lbs.
     
  2. MooseHead

    MooseHead Active Member

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    I'd love to see some of the results if that's cool. Ill pm you on Facebook.
     
  3. oceans

    oceans Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    It can be hand spliced.

    Use a longer core tail than usual. Make a loooooong smooth taper on the core and taper it BEFORE you pass it through the cover.

    It is totally do-able. It looks AMAZING when done. It seems like it should be impossible, but when I finished the second one, I was a believer.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ok, Nick from WI... I can totally see how it's doable. It's just really, really difficult. I'm most of the way through my first attempt. This splice makes me want to build an honest to goodness splicing station.

    When you say loooooong, you mean it for sure. Like 6" or 8" worth. So I just gotta ask; Does your method involve tape or lube on the core tail?
     
  4. MooseHead

    MooseHead Active Member

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    I didn't use any lube on mine. Used tape like any other splice by keeping the ends from unraveling.
     
  5. RajElectric

    RajElectric Well-Known Member

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  6. oceans

    oceans Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I wonder if these instructions would be relevant. I've use this a few times on some non life supporting kernmantle.

    Heavy Duty Kernmantle eye Splice.

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/use...ntle+Eye+Splice

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Those instructions come straight out of New England's Guide. Unfortunately, they won't apply here because Kernmaster actually has a braided core and not straight kerns like other kernmantle lines.

    Moosehead, I've had luck with most BD splices without tape, but some just need it. I only have a wire fid, and no real proper work station. Is it time for me to buy a Toss Wand?
     
  7. MooseHead

    MooseHead Active Member

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    I use the homemade wire fids. I have toss wands but rarely use them and my work station is my coffee table. Ill be converting part of the garage soon
     
  8. bonner1040

    bonner1040 Well-Known Member

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    I found that I was a WAY better splicer once I got to a bench, and off my couch. Its amazing.
     
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  9. oceans

    oceans Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I use the homemade wire fids. I have toss wands but rarely use them and my work station is my coffee table. Ill be converting part of the garage soon

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Wire fids and no tape on Kernmaster. Wow, Jay. Please let us all know how you're working it that way. Sounds like you're using The Force or something.
     
  10. MooseHead

    MooseHead Active Member

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    Get a good taper on the core. It'll go!

    I can't wait to have a proper work station. I know ill be able to produce a lot more with a decent bench.
     
  11. Marden

    Marden Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I'm heading to Fids & Fibers again this year, thinking I'll take that for my entire baggage and see if we can't make it happen.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Roxy,

    Instead of 200', why not just cut off a 15' piece to take to Fids & Fibers for practice and make a lanyard out of it...
     
  12. oceans

    oceans Well-Known Member

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    I appreciate that, but how on Gaia do you keep the core from folding back on itself and bunching up during the bury? Or do you just let it fold back? How does that not turn into a frayed mess?
     
  13. MooseHead

    MooseHead Active Member

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    The taper is long. Maybe 10" long so it doesn't unravel easy. I tapered over half of the strands out and let the fid fold it over.
     
  14. oceans

    oceans Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info, Jay. I got 8" taped up to pass, but I knew a pro would have an easier way. When you taper, are you marking and removing what few strands there are to choose from in the core? Sounds like the first point of entry is the tough part with folded yarns going into a 32 carrier jacket.
     
  15. MooseHead

    MooseHead Active Member

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    It's tough to start but it will go. I plan on knockin out a handful soon so I can get a better system for it.
     
  16. Bill_N

    Bill_N Member

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    This is interesting, when I first convinced Shelter Tree to order Kernmaster I spoke to Jamie Goddard at Yale and he said that one of the reasons they didn't sell it for tree work so much was because it was not spliceable, not even stitched. I'm curious to why he would say that. I tried to ask him about it since but he never responded to the last few emails I sent. It sounds like some of you are having success hand splicing it and I know a lot of places that stitch it. so why would Yale say it can't be done, espeially stitched that never made any sense to me. ??
     
  17. evo

    evo Well-Known Member

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    So I did it. I'm still waiting some sort of confirmation from yale on measurements. Oceans thanks for the help. This is the 11mm and I did a 6 1/2 core bury. Is a little deeper than the mark on the cover, I entered about 1/2 to 3/4 up the rope with my wire fid. I have the slightest amount of bunch on the cover in the eye.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. oceans

    oceans Well-Known Member

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    I like the work, evo. It looks real nice. That bunching in the eye looks to be the firm nature of the jacket, unless there's slack in there, which doesn't appear to be the case.

    I looked back at Nick's photo of the Safari Kernmaster, but the eye is in a dark shadow...kinda hard to really tell, but both look great from what I can see.
     
  19. DBT

    DBT Member

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    i actually think its a pretty easy splice once you get the core out..
     
  20. oceans

    oceans Well-Known Member

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    Getting the core out is a challenge compared to 24 strand, for sure, but I also had quite the challenge getting the core to tuck through the jacket and bury.

    Have you found any significant differences between splicing 7/16" and 1/2" Kernmaster?
     

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