Stress on splices?

*useless info*

Well-Known Member
Best to make a long Bowline eye for other stuff too likewise.
Seek to offer 2 legs support totally
>>before eye and wood frictions buffer loading to then seam and single leg as supports.
>>also not expose any seam of knots or splice especially to the initial hit.
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Instead of eye, then exposed seam/splice/knot then single leg of support all tested before buffering relief of frictions of eye and wood.
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i'd also prefer a Round Turn around the Standing Part before commencing with Timber.
>>i think of as stronger and more secure 'Bull Nosed such as ABoK#1669
" If the rope is weak and the hoist is heavy, a round tum on the standing part adds
materially to the strength of the knot. "
i go with want all knots stronger, so i apply this often.
#1669 is one of faves for showing the ABoK #'s as lesson#'s of principles.not knot #'s.
i think the more you practice these things;the luckier ya git.
Seek to make these habits, that move smoother and educate eye to what something should look like (as eyes are another person inspecting what muscle memory in fingers plays out in rope)
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And find>>chap_26 pre-Ramble:
"But knotting is merely the application of certain mechanical principles, and a principle itself can hardly become obsolete. As conditions change, new applications are bound to appear. The fact that something is not required today is no reason for believing that it will not be needed tomorrow."

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Also , prefer loose splice of Timber Twirls to serve over the line, then under to pinch against wood. Spacing Nips further into greater forces towards top of spar(Equal/Opposite of original pull). ABoK shows this as more secure, calls it a fig8 Timber (#1668)
Also prefer 1 of the Nips at top for same reason >> more security from tightest Nip point.
Common Half Hitch sits at worst Nip point.
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Prefer single bearing of grip on spar have pull perpendicular to spar
>>not pull tracing parallel to host mount/spar.
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In 'Bad Pic' the Timber does bear rite on the splice
>>so can pull at it also.
>>Also, this would be stiffest to bend section of rope,
>>so would be 'weakened' more by bending
>>just like a torqued piece of metal then loaded or kinked chain.
Stiffness, twists etc. can become then leveraged multipliers of later force against the containing device(of force) of rope,metal, wood etc.
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Prefer IF any angle of pull besides perpendicular to mount
>>eye pull into the harder/higher tension section of line before 'loose splice ' of Timber twirls,
>>forcing to pull more close than open and/or not distorting Standing Part eye (as pic'd)
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Prefer if line feeds under eye before splice like 'twirls'
>>that first 'twirl' then re-enforce under as well
>>serving over first,then under, taking the longer spaced and frictioned route before nip.
>>also the over pressure before Nip part presses shelf to lock twirl higher into better nip zone.
Best Nip is to other side of support than load pull
>>Worst Nip is to same side of support as load pull
Feeding twirl over before frist tuck helps space and then shelf first Nip into better nip zone, after also providing added frictions.
 
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Tony

Well-Known Member
What the diagram should say is O. K. And Better.

I have never liked the designations of “good/bad” in these scenarios.

There is efficient and unefficient, safe and questionable, there are just to many variables. I would rather see the “bad” diagram with a well tied appropriate knot as opposed to “good” with a sloppy ass, loosey goosey porly tied knot.

Tony
 

robthetreemanct

New Member
I was just puzzled because I have had several tight eye stable slings where the splice is always loaded and rigged heavy on them with no issues.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
The best reason to have a larger eye on a splice is for rigging slings. It allows for attachment to many devices. For instance a sling with a large eye can be used on a block as pictured at the rigging point or girth hitched to a lowering device attached to the base of the tree.
 
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