Splicing Stable Braid Question

JTree

Well-Known Member
#21
Good thing they make more, huh? LOL.

Thanks again for your help, hog. My double braid splices are going together so fast it's actually pretty scary. I'm going to have to send a few off to break - land to believe that these are really legit. Can't find anything wrong with 'em, though.
 

Worthaug

Well-Known Member
#22
Good thing they make more, huh? LOL.

Thanks again for your help, hog. My double braid splices are going together so fast it's actually pretty scary. I'm going to have to send a few off to break - land to believe that these are really legit. Can't find anything wrong with 'em, though.
I'm only gonna keep mine because I never feel like I have time to sell anything but my skills and talents...
 
#23
All Gear husky is super easy to splice, you gotta lock stitch that one right away or the bury might fall out just laying there! (kinda a joke, kinda true , just make sure you equalize the core and cover after you remove the core)

Could you clarify which splice instructions to use for this please? I did not think it was double braid, and definitely not hollow. Sampson's instructions don't seem to have this explicitly in mind. I'm just learning.
 

Treezybreez

Well-Known Member
#26
I just used the fid length chart to determine how long the fid length for a particular diameter rope needed to be along with the short fid length and transferred the dimensions onto wooden dowels. The dowels are for measuring the rope, but I use wire fids for the actual splicing. Class 1 double braid splices use one fid length's worth of rope for the bury while class two require 2. I have a couple different size awls, permanent marker, manly scissors, needle and thread. Wesspur has great splicing instructions on YouTube for double braid and 16 strand. You can glean some tips from some New England rope splicing videos too. Hope that helps.
 
#27
@Marvin Budd; Welcome to the TreeBuzz forum! Congrats on your first post, and thanks for reviving another cool older thread!

Tim
Blush! I'm a computer guy primarily, but not used to this forum. And I don't really stay tuned in to social media a lot.

Regarding Husky, I bought 200 ft of it, and a month+ ago my client knicked it with his chain saw about half way. I figure he cut four full strands. I smoothed out the rope distortion and figure I will derate the rope. But I'm wondering if it would be better to splice it at that point with http://atlanticbraids.com/longer-end-to-end-splice/, or if there is another option I'm open to suggestions. I think I can handle the splice if it is a wise option. My rough calculations are that the new rope is 18,000 lbs MBS and I should derate it to about 75% of that without a splice. Some say splices are 80-100% of the new rope strength. Am I on the right track?
 

evo

Well-Known Member
#28
I'd ax the rope at the and buy again. You can look at the bright side, you will have 3 ropes then... I have ran across a manufacture's suggestion on when to retire a line. It took into account of how many strands were cut, and how far apart they were.
I wouldn't bother with a end to end.. It wouldn't run well through a lowering device or might hang up in a block, seems to me that it would be more problems than it's worth. Only time I can see a end to end working well in treework is for a tag line, winch line, or some other static (non running) application.
 

SomethingWitty

Well-Known Member
#29
Blush! I'm a computer guy primarily, but not used to this forum. And I don't really stay tuned in to social media a lot.

Regarding Husky, I bought 200 ft of it, and a month+ ago my client knicked it with his chain saw about half way. I figure he cut four full strands. I smoothed out the rope distortion and figure I will derate the rope. But I'm wondering if it would be better to splice it at that point with http://atlanticbraids.com/longer-end-to-end-splice/, or if there is another option I'm open to suggestions. I think I can handle the splice if it is a wise option. My rough calculations are that the new rope is 18,000 lbs MBS and I should derate it to about 75% of that without a splice. Some say splices are 80-100% of the new rope strength. Am I on the right track?
Wait, is that husky 12? Or a husky bull rope double braid?

If it is the hollow braid one, splice it.
An end to end splice in a double braid would definitely be bulky (if it is even a thing. Probably is, but probably above my pay grade). The hollow braid ropes just end up a little fat and a little stiff. If you're nervous about doing it right, grab several feet of 1/4" stuff and practice first.
Be sure that you have tension on the line when you lock stitch it so that the stitching doesn't inadvertently end up with some load on it. It only exists to keep the unloaded splice from sliding apart.
 
#30
It is the double braid, unfortunately. Thanks for the advise. I try to be conservative. Just bought some 1/2 polydyne and am impressed how strong the specs look. Tech changes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TimBr

Well-Known Member
#32
@Worthaug; Interesting statement. Have you had some bad experiences with other brands of rope outside of the ones you've listed? As in, a failure below what you felt the ropes were rated for? I'm not asking you to name manufacturers, just trying to get a feel for where your recommendation is coming from.

Thanks for your patience with me, and for any answers you choose to provide. I respect your opinion.

Tim
 

SomethingWitty

Well-Known Member
#33
Everyone needs to do themselves a favor and stick to Yale, Teufelberger, and Samson for life support and rigging. DO NOT TAKE MY WORDS LIGHTLY.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
We all know that you're good with fibers.
I would really like to second Tim's request.
What is wrong with allgear? I've never used their ropes, but wasn't the RR designed to be used on their climb lines?
 

Worthaug

Well-Known Member
#34
We all know that you're good with fibers.
I would really like to second Tim's request.
What is wrong with allgear? I've never used their ropes, but wasn't the RR designed to be used on their climb lines?
No, the Allgear/ RR thing was a TS marketing ploy. Kevin designed the RR to work flawlessly on the Yale 11.7's.

AllGear is a middle man using Atlantic Braids as a manufacturer. It's junk.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
 

SomethingWitty

Well-Known Member
#36
No, the Allgear/ RR thing was a TS marketing ploy. Kevin designed the RR to work flawlessly on the Yale 11.7's.

AllGear is a middle man using Atlantic Braids as a manufacturer. It's junk.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
What about sterling? I know that is a big name in sport climbing.
 

96coal449

Well-Known Member
#39
@Worthaug your the rope guy with all the knowledge for sure! My question is regarding the Atlas brand which I believe is connected to Sterling. Read a couple of good reviews on them but those are opinions from someone I don't know. Just want to be educated. Thank you for your time.
 

Worthaug

Well-Known Member
#40
@Worthaug your the rope guy with all the knowledge for sure! My question is regarding the Atlas brand which I believe is connected to Sterling. Read a couple of good reviews on them but those are opinions from someone I don't know. Just want to be educated. Thank you for your time.
The Atlas rigging line is a tough one. Very dynamic which is good but low on the breaking strength for its diameter. Again, I'd steer you towards Yale's Double Esterlon or Samson's Stable Braid...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top