Smaller top handle recommendation needed

evo

Well-Known Member
I have almost decided on the 150. What mods are best for it? If any.
Mine is stock (-muffler screen) . I do plan to do a muffler mod in the near future, beyond that I think the only other thing to be done is advance the timing a hair. No porting
 

JeffGu

Well-Known Member
My 150 has the timing advanced and a muffler mod. The Echo tophandle saws really only need the muffler mod.
 

monkeylove

Well-Known Member
Does the timing advance still help with the newest computer controlled versions. Mine has not had the timing advanced yet but mine is a few years old so I know helps them.
 

TimBr

Well-Known Member
@Benjo75; I think they're just drilling a hole in the mufflers, but I'd like to hear back from the folks who've actually done it. There may be threads on this forum that show photos of the process. It requires the search utility.

Tim
 

Benjo75

Active Member
Thanks for the info. I used to drill holes in the 046s and 066s I used to cut logs with years ago. I never knew what everyone else did.
 

chiselbit

Well-Known Member
I use a metal bur bit and grind out inside the deflector and through the baffle wall, then reinstall the screen. Here in California I want that screen in place and it’s required when cutting on federal land. Having used both 150 and 2511 I’d recommend the 2511. More power less weight. My wrist is getting funky too so i can relate
 

Benjo75

Active Member
Thanks. I've been doing this 25 years. I've done way more one handing than I should. Especially out of a bucket where it's all day long. My wrists are staying a little sore the past few months. I've narrowed it down between the 2511 and the 150. By the time I have the 2511 shipped from Baileys it's only going to be about $100 cheaper than the 150. There is a Stihl distributor 5 miles from me. That's about the only plus. There's not an Echo dealer for a long ways. Everything Echo would have to be ordered. I'm still weighing the good and the bad of both.
 

evo

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I've been doing this 25 years. I've done way more one handing than I should. Especially out of a bucket where it's all day long. My wrists are staying a little sore the past few months. I've narrowed it down between the 2511 and the 150. By the time I have the 2511 shipped from Baileys it's only going to be about $100 cheaper than the 150. There is a Stihl distributor 5 miles from me. That's about the only plus. There's not an Echo dealer for a long ways. Everything Echo would have to be ordered. I'm still weighing the good and the bad of both.
Not taking brand loyalty into account at all, but I’d go with the 150 for $100 more even if the echo has more umpf based on the local dealer.
 

Birdyman88

Well-Known Member
Man, I finally pulled the trigger on a Echo CS-2511T. Picked it up online for $315 total from a reputable dealer in AR. Bought it yesterday after lunch, UPS delivered at 10:00am this morn, of course I am only 80 miles away. Came with the 12" Echo bar, and .050" Oregon 91PXL045X chain. I run 93 non-E in all my stuff. Out of box, assemble, gas and oil, prime, 3 pulls for first hit, crank on next pull, never hiccuped afterward. Responsive throttle, nice powerful sound, not too muted.

Soooo .... holy cow!! This thing is small, light, balanced, sexy looking, and it just flat out rips! I have a well broken in 193T with a 14" bar and .043" chain with muffler mod (no timing advance yet) that I thought did pretty good, but honestly the 2511T smokes it in the cut. Seriously. I just put 2 tanks through the 2511T playing around with some small firewood and it laughed at it. So, I took it over to a 45' red oak limb with 18" butt that I brought down in large sections with the 193T the other day and tested it. The 2511T laughed a little at that too. I mean, it ain't no large saw for sure, but it never hesitated. It was either going all out, or it was stalled. There was almost no in between. I buried it pretty good on some cuts. Most of the sections you see in the pics were just done with the 2511T.

The one thing I will say is that I did notice the kick back tendency and mild jerking in the cut with the .050" chain on the 2511T when I was in the heartwood. The .043" on the 193T is definitely smoother, but it also tends to catch and stop more than the 2511T when in heartwood. My guess is that a 2511T with a .043" chain would be the holy grail for pruning. All in all, I am very happy. I imagine now that this saw is gonna see more saddle time than the 193T.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Z'sTrees

Well-Known Member
The chain is responsible for that grabbiness and chatter. Try hitting it with a file, it'll smooth out a bit. Awesome saws. I'm super impressed by the power and weight.
 

otismcfeely

New Member
I've read about the muffler mod. Any advise on what to do there? And timing is something I haven't messed with.
You just pull the spark arresting screen out. I`m not sure what you have to do about the timing as that part is digitally controlled. I would just adjust the carb if you aren`t worried about EPA.
 

Birdyman88

Well-Known Member
There are tons of write ups and videos here and on the web that will walk you through the muffler job and the timing for your saw. Just make sure you've researched your saw, or have a pretty good mechanical background before jumping on that timing job. It requires more precision than the muffler job.

No matter what you do, retune the carb after these changes. Search bsnelling on the web. He has some excellent videos and info for tuning.
 

Stephen Moore

Well-Known Member
Not trying to derail the gassers, but much of the fatigue comes from vibration, the new Husky electrics, with the smaller battery to keep the weight down, work extremely well with a properly sharpened chain. I run 2 on my truck with 2 x 200ts for slightly bigger trees.
 

flyingsquirrel25

Well-Known Member
Not trying to derail the gassers, but much of the fatigue comes from vibration, the new Husky electrics, with the smaller battery to keep the weight down, work extremely well with a properly sharpened chain. I run 2 on my truck with 2 x 200ts for slightly bigger trees.
They suck with the smaller battery. We found the motor stops to allow for cooling when in larger cuts, 6” or so. The bigger battery in the saw weighs more than the 150 (but doesn’t stop for cooling until the battery is dead). Also a huge plus for us on the 150 side is that 1/4” chain and carving bar. It makes better cuts in tighter crotches hands down. When doing reduction pruning this is pretty important to us. The bar and chain should be an easy option for the husky electric... but it’s not available :confused:
 

Jimmycrackcorn

Well-Known Member
As much as I've cursed the Echos & their throw away under powered / heavy designs... I've got to say, that newer small one has my eye on it.. I have a feeling id have to have it modified for me to accept the power level & give a thumbs up... but never the less.. the minature size is very appealing..

With that said.. I'm not sure how heavy the battery powered ones are & i can't see them having power on par with gasser, but you absolutely touched on something when you mentioned the fact that the motor shuts itself down after a certain temp/workload.. That's absolute BS.. As a professional, you should not have to deal with that.. shit.. not even at a consumer level.. but these companies are so quick to jump on the Green wagon they push these products out there with these defects as if they are there newest proven technology.. I'm sorry but if i have to stop & wait for a peice of equipment (not just any peice of equipment but my main tool), i consider that tool heavily flawed.. Yes, i believe it's a flaw/defect even though it's programmed to do it.. as it's not a desireable trait to have a tool that doesn't work.. most would call that broken.. kno what i mean?

The shutting down has probably been around forever but I've only recently experienced it when swapping out this old cordless drill that refused to die.. It was so old & batteries have come so far in the meantime that i figured I'd be getting some primo tool compared to what i had before.. With the old one, it would just die... then i recharge & boom done.. no problem, no drama.. However this new one, i have to stop in the middle of what I'm doing & freaking wait?? Are you kidding me?? That's absolute BS. I was very irritated when I found this out.. I'll tell you straight up, there's plenty of low cost high power/high drain capable batteries out there.. why their not in these tools beats the hell out of me.

If the B-Saws are acting the same as my drill, i hate to imagine the potientially dangerous/destructive situations they can put me/you in.. To have a scenario where your cutting & you let off the trigger & the next time you pull it nothing happens?... well.. i don't think i have to say much more ...

Steve.. what happens with that? Do you have any warning it's about to happen?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Top