Rigging Gear

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
I've been shopping slings and such. I think I'm over thinking it. My shopping cart is very full. Probably more than it should be. Knowing the difference between a kboom and a stick crane, what have you guys bought to get your kbooms up an running for crane work? Sling lengths, strengths? I don't feel like there is a one size fits all. Sometimes the boom length dictates a shorter sling and obviously the load chart for the fly jib is much different than the first extension boom. So for instance do you have a pair of short slings with lower wll when working off the fly and heavy duty for the first extension? I was thinking getting 2 sets at the max wll for the fly and one set for the max wll of the lower. I'm good to go and dead eye balancers. I'm thinking about when I get into main trunk wood and such. Any insight would be helpful.
 

flyingsquirrel25

Well-Known Member
Maybe my mind looks at it differently but I would take the same approach to setting a crane up that I do setting a rigging system up. The rope needs to be the weakest link. My thought is if something is going to break I would rather it being a $100 sling than 300k crane. But in all reality we want nothing to break.
Normally our set up has one tuflex (short) and spiders for tops. Heavy tuflex slings 16' in length are really nice for wood. Once in a while we use the 6' tuflex sling for extension on big wood. And of course high quality Clevis' for each sling (no chinese steel). That's just how we roll, there are any number of options.
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
That is along the lines I'm thinking. Thank you. Time to start collecting a new cache of stuff. Was gonna start with tuflex then the spliced stuff later as money comes in.
 

climbhightree

Well-Known Member
I went with teulfenberger crane slings for brush, and eye to eye straps for wood. I like them both, but if I'd do it over again I'd get round slings versus they eye to eye. Though I have not used them yet on my setup (round)...I just like them at Crane School.

As to working load ratings - I wanted all my straps to have a slightly higher capacity then my crane max (with jib on) which for me is 6600 lbs. I don't take my jib off (least not yet) and didn't want to have to check strap capacity every time I grab one. If the crane can lift it, I know the strap can too.

Maybe once I upgrade to a longer main boom crane, with a better capacity rating on it, I'd have a double set of straps (in separate boxes or in a box with a divider) for when jib is removed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
That's where I am. I'd also like to have slightly lighter rigging gear for lighter wood. The max I could lift with the fly is 9300 so that would be the basis of my light duty stuff. If I had to tak the jib off to take monster pieces I'd need 22700 at 12' from the crane. Not likely I'd ever do that but I think that would be th base setup for the lower boom. The question is lengths. The longer the sling the higher above the piece I'd need to be. Sjtreeguy ises 18' slings and we took some reasonably fat wood with those.
 

climbhightree

Well-Known Member
That's where I am. I'd also like to have slightly lighter rigging gear for lighter wood. The max I could lift with the fly is 9300 so that would be the basis of my light duty stuff. If I had to tak the jib off to take monster pieces I'd need 22700 at 12' from the crane. Not likely I'd ever do that but I think that would be th base setup for the lower boom. The question is lengths. The longer the sling the higher above the piece I'd need to be. Sjtreeguy ises 18' slings and we took some reasonably fat wood with those.
Eye to eye I have two 6', two 12', and two 20'

I've only broke out the 20's a couple of times. I like the 6' for the smaller spar wood, and yo extend my teulfenberger slings.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

climbhightree

Well-Known Member
Eye to eye I have two 6', two 12', and two 20'

I've only broke out the 20's a couple of times. I like the 6' for the smaller spar wood, and yo extend my teulfenberger slings.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Hmm but you will have a grapple saw for all that small spar wood. Duh!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
We can mill small stuff here. The firewood guy will pick up stuff 6" diameter and bigger but minimum 11' so some companies like my current employer put logs out on everything. This guy picks up anything no matter how shitty it looks so with them it'll be a lot of traditional crane work on wood.
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
I priced through westec and 6 slings and 4 shackles with one extra pin a piece is about 2k. Anybody buy from j Henry holland? We have one down here. Wondering what the price looks like. I also may take a basic rigging course if I start doing stuff other than trees. Holland offers the classes also
 

islandedge

Well-Known Member
We use 2 6' eye to eye most of the time. I have been looking at the teulfenberger crane slings but there over $500 for the set of 3.
 

climbhightree

Well-Known Member
Looks good to me.

I keep looking at the lift-all hooks, but they aren't as idiot proof as shackles.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
I have the crane slings. I was just thinking of slinging wood. I like the hooks but for now they're too expensive. In all my years I've never dropped a pin but I love that idea. I was actually thinking about that with deep sea fishing swivels.
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
Just trying to not blow all my cash at once. I have some tools to buy, electronics, soft goods. It adds up pretty damn quick.
 

climbhightree

Well-Known Member
Climbhightree do You use the teulfenberger crane slings more for balancing/ keeping minimal movement?
For brush picks, I only use the teulfenberger slings (no other slings with them). The same is true for slanted/bowed big limb/spar wood wood. Yes, I do this to help balance the piece and make any movement minimal (or at least predictable).

Spar wood that is fairly straight, and that has no need for balancing, I use a single eye to eye...or round if I had them. If close to building etc then I'll double eye to eye sling to prevent tipping.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

Magnum783

Well-Known Member
We safety wire a ton of our shackles latched. Super easy and quick once you learn how. I do the same thing when I tie into a shackle on a ball and wouldn't have it any other way. I can make a video and send you Steve if you want.
 
Top