RE Akimbo setting and rope

#21
This is the intended operation of the tending point.. the way it works with the DMM XSRE is exactly how its supposed to work. It will tend the device up, but once you lean back and down it is designed with an outward gate to automatically disconnect.
The tending can be a challenge using a fixed point if your form isn't spot on. On an 4SRT harness, depending on the length of the rope bridge, relative height of the connection point, position, and angle of the tending carabiner, the outcomes varies. Using a higher chest connection on a 4SRT harness is a good start, but using an adjustible neck teather or a Petzl Torse (Croll Harness) is my preference. Being able to loosen and tighten the tension of the tending carabiner helps mitigate a lot of unwanted pop outs.
 
#22
@John@TreeXP
I agree it was a challenge but after limited use on my 4SRT I've been able to tune my body position and timing of connecting the chest harness to work great. The easy down and back release is a huge plus in my opinion, and with slight adjustments to climbing its easy to get used to. It can probably be taped or heat shrink-ed closed if it doesn't work for folks.

I don't use neck tethers anymore but could imagine it would be nice
 
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evo

Well-Known Member
#24
More testing, 160-165# in my long undies with a light saddle

Used Yale Aztec mid range fuzz
Reliable D/5, C/5 (sporty), F/4 (minor creep on flat spots)

Kernmaster 11mm used but hardly any fuzz
F/5, F/4
Rope flattens and doesn’t return to shape, some slipping if same spot is used for testing

Fuzzy Imori fuzzy used(I only really use this rope DdRT/MRS cause the bounce sucks)
C/4, D/3
It’s a grippy line, any adjustment out of this range either locks or slips.

And my last hank of 20’ backup long lanyard
Tachyon A/1 smooth as silk.
Best rope I’ve tried yet, too bad I hate this bungee cord line otherwise I’d be dropping coin

Speaking of coin, just ordered drenline 150’ and a short chunk of Marlow Vega.. might have it soon as tomorrow depending on snow levels, and how long they take to sew eyes
 
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CanadianStan

Well-Known Member
#26
More testing, 160-165# in my long undies with a light saddle

Used Yale Aztec mid range fuzz
Reliable D/5, C/5 (sporty), F/4 (minor creep on flat spots)

Kernmaster 11mm used but hardly any fuzz
F/5, F/4
Rope flattens and doesn’t return to shape, some slipping if same spot is used for testing

Fuzzy Imori fuzzy used(I only really use this rope DdRT/MRS cause the bounce sucks)
C/4, D/3
It’s a grippy line, any adjustment out of this range either locks or slips.

And my last hank of 20’ backup long lanyard
Tachyon A/1 smooth as silk.
Best rope I’ve tried yet, too bad I hate this bungee cord line otherwise I’d be dropping coin

Speaking of coin, just ordered drenline 150’ and a short chunk of Marlow Vega.. might have it soon as tomorrow depending on snow levels, and how long they take to sew eyes
For a second I read that as splicing eyes into the Drenaline ... you had me excited for a second there.

If it stops snowing today I may go out and try out the new akimbo buttttttt it looks pretty awful for climbing right now.
 

evo

Well-Known Member
#27
For a second I read that as splicing eyes into the Drenaline ... you had me excited for a second there.

If it stops snowing today I may go out and try out the new akimbo buttttttt it looks pretty awful for climbing right now.
I’m sure it COULD be done, there is a plethora of ugly kernmantle splices
 

CanadianStan

Well-Known Member
#28
I’m sure it COULD be done, there is a plethora of ugly kernmantle splices
Well it's not even traditionally spliced from the factory ... they sell it as a slaice. Not sure how that affects the splicing but no one is currently selling it with an eye splice

my local splicesmith is working on creating an acceptable replacement with the same inner dyneema sling ... currently in the process of breaktesting his prototypes
 

evo

Well-Known Member
#30
Well it's not even traditionally spliced from the factory ... they sell it as a slaice. Not sure how that affects the splicing but no one is currently selling it with an eye splice

my local splicesmith is working on creating an acceptable replacement with the same inner dyneema sling ... currently in the process of breaktesting his prototypes
Look up the splicing instructions for the “fly” rope. There are a number of kernmantle splices, but most are a epic pain in the ass, so they don’t bother offering them.
Kernmaster is also this way, but takes a modified double braid splice just fine due to the braided core. It can’t be done in a production setting with any profit margin. I think a few suppliers would offer it spliced for double the cost of others
 
#32
Weight: 150lbs (no gear)
Ropes, Condition and Device Settings
KMIII Max:good condition with some minor areas of fraying/fuzz
A,2
KMII: great condition, >1yr of use, A,3 or A,4

No tips just yet , but some observations after 3-4 hrs of tinkering / fiddling in the shop, some short ascents and descends:
1. Akimbo likes smaller diameter static ropes, like KM3 and KM3 max, did not like Drenaline - even with bollards all the way opened up, the break on the top arm was quite heavy , not smooth at all

2. That roller bearing on the lower can/bollard makes tending suuuuuuper smooth

3. Akimbo doesn't abruptly stop when you suddenly let go of the upper arm while descending - it seems to gently ease you into a stop, some rope slips through even after your hand has left the device. It isn't a significant slip , maybe only 1.5-3 inches. I prefer this over a device that doesn't have this type of functional cushioning

4. It's incredibly compact , light weight, carefully and thoughtfully designed, and very sleek looking. Looking at the akimbo in the 'open' position is like looking at a piece of art, or some alien technology from the future. It's an elegantly constructed, robust piece of equipment.

5. It was 350$ so I bought a small Pelican Case for it. It's got a hard outer shell and customized foam inside to fit whatever object you're trying to protect. It's a little over kill, I know, but I've waited 2 years to get my hands on this device and I cherish it.

That's all for now.

"If you can't even clean up your own room, who the hell are you to give advice to the world?"
- Jordan B. Peterson
 

Z'sTrees

Well-Known Member
#35
I'm finding alot of the same things Wyatt is saying. Tried drenaline, scandere, km3 max so far and the max is by far the best. The thicker ropes are just too on/off with descent, and hard to release at all on any setting.
I'm still experimenting at this point but the thinner km max runs really well. Coming from a bulldog bone it's damn near as smooth, lighter, more compact, and tends better. I also really like the gated attachment point.
 

Merle Nelson

Well-Known Member
#38
[QUOTE


5. It was 350$ so I bought a small Pelican Case for it.

"If you can't even clean up your own room, who the hell are you to give advice to the world?"
- Jordan B. Peterson[/QUOTE]

Harbor Freight has at least 3 modest size Pelican knock offs now.
 

evo

Well-Known Member
#39
I'm finding alot of the same things Wyatt is saying. Tried drenaline, scandere, km3 max so far and the max is by far the best. The thicker ropes are just too on/off with descent, and hard to release at all on any setting.
I'm still experimenting at this point but the thinner km max runs really well. Coming from a bulldog bone it's damn near as smooth, lighter, more compact, and tends better. I also really like the gated attachment point.
You guys are like gerbils on speed with your attention spans. Weight and settings, weight settings and rope
 
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