New (possibly) knee ascender

Brocky

Well-Known Member
#21
The trouble with strapping the ascender just below the knee is trying to get the rope to fairlead into it. Stiff static rope makes it worse by cabling up after loaded.

My first double bungee rope walker system was two handled ascenders, the upper part of a fall arrest harness, foot loops, a single bungee, and the plastic pulley in my previous picture, made to separate two clothes lines, hooked to the chest harness. It was always under tension, even when not in use, which bothered me, so I switched the pulley to a hand ascender to get the bungee off me.

I think someone mentioned in another thread that you can get the roller chest harness at On Rope.
 

FreeFallin

Well-Known Member
#23
Don'the know how I missed this video. Two things that strike me:
1. Look how high the "knee" ascended rides, more like a waist ascender.
2. No multicender to gum up the works, just rope 4 rope grabs and a chest pulley during ascent.
 
#24
That is very similar, minus the bungee. It is not surprising that someone has done something like this before, as it is a simple setup. Thanks for finding that, you seem to have a reference for just about everything discussed on here. I know I have studied a few of your hitch drawings in the past when trying to tweak a system. I appreciate the info here and in other post. Thanks again

As for the working in unison, it is very natural (at least after using a rope walker setup) for the required action to make this work. I've had a SAKA since they were still being sold at treestuff, so its possible that it is a little more intuitive for me to pick up that sequence than maybe someone who is trying it out for the first time.
You guys have a look at the ProTips section here? Ascending video is a rope walker setup I've been using for a long time.
http://portal.treebuzz.com/pro-tips
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
#31
Yes, it needs to be attached to the boot. Only the bungee cord is looped to double the pull power. A single stronger bungee could also be used. The feet just seesaw through the pulley, with the foot ascender aiding the knee ascender. A solid rope might also work?
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
#37
Just another thought on this. If one were to make a version with two ascenders on it, one side down low like a foot ascender and the other side up by the knee, with rated carabiners all you would need for a powerscender would be the $10 HAAS connection plate on each spur. This would work well for anyone who wanted to avoid having a foot ascender constantly on their spur while working. You could make your own detachable foot loops for when pruning.
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
#39
She is using a more traditional method that was used before foot ascenders came out. The right foot croll, as well as the knee ascender need bungees to advance. She has both ascenders working independently with separate cords. The regular double bungee system connects the two ascenders so that they help each provide tension.
When using a foot ascender, only the knee ascender needs tension provided.
I use a similar system when using 9mm to eliminate toothed ascenders.
IMG_0761.JPG
 

FreeFallin

Well-Known Member
#40
One area where a lot of rope walking systems can improve is the amount of distance between each foot in an upward motion, and fully engaged in a downward step.
I see a lot of videos where people look like they are aggressively pedaling a unicycle slowly up a tree, this is caused by the amount of slop before the foot engages.
Mark's protip video has the least of this I have seen, so I can assume the upward tension on each foot was really dialed in to minimize the amount of slop.

I say this because I am questioning how much movement is in my own system, even a tight foot ascender can have 4-5 inches of slop between up and down. With both feet I am probably climbing 2 feet for every 1 I move up the rope.

Could the old school ascenders that float above the foot be more efficient?
 
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