I screwed up and my Husqvarna 560 is now dead

#1
On my Way to a job this Morning, i new i only had a bit mixed gas left, so becaus of being late i borrowed a Can of gas from one of my employes, asked him if he was sure that it was Oil mixed. He Said it was.

All my saws was gassed up and sharp and Ready for work, so i used my Ground saws taking Down 5 smaller trees and Chopping Them up, stoppes when i ran out of gas. Then went onto working up in the trees with my top handle saw, stem Got to Big for my little saw so asked my Ground guy to gas up my Husqvarna 560 and send it up to me.

I forgot it wasnt my own gas and i hadnt checked if it was actually mixed, i feel so bloody stupid.

So i Got my saw up, blocking Down the tree with my new safeblock(awesome product btw),
Almost at the bottom my saw seized and died fast.

I cant pull the start string, it Wont move an inch. so Im assuming that cylinder and piston is dead.

What Else should i expect To change before my beloved saw is back to life?

Best regards

Ben
 

JeffGu

Well-Known Member
#2
The gas.

Ok, sorry... couldn't resist...
Aftermarket cylinder/piston kit should fix you up. It's unlikely anything else was damaged, but it wouldn't hurt to put a micrometer to the crankshaft and inspect the lower rod bearings/surfaces before you throw it back together.

That's a hard lesson, my friend. I've been very lucky that I haven't done that, but I'm really paranoid about it, and I never fill my saws from anything but my own cans, which I label very prominently. I've helped friends get their saws back together a couple of times when they straight-gassed them. It's easy to do when you're in a hurry or distracted, or just not thinking clearly that day.
 
#4
I am also very particular about the fuel in my saws. The top handles and stick saw get pre mix. The rest get the same high test from the same source... PERIOD no exceptions.

Jeff is right though don’t forget to dump the tank out and put fresh MIXED fuel in. I’ve seen that done a couple times. Fix it, start it and seize it... and now you might as well have bought a new saw.
 
#5
Thx for the replies

No worries, i adverticed my own stupidity... Rolfmao, changing the gas Do Seem Very important.


Jeff, I have never even done a muffler mod Can, so Can You elaborate on putting a micrometer to the crank, What should i(or mechanic) check for.

I also thought i was anal about gas, my Van always has a Can of, Black Can 20l is diesel, green Can 10l is 95 octane, red Can 5l is 95 mixed.. and offcourse a small Can of stihl Oil for mixing if need be.
it turns out that Im not anal enoughf :tonto::tonto::tonto:.
I havent read much Good about aftermarked piston cylinder kits, something about Them not being nikasil coated or have bad Chroming.
I want something that isnt a downgrade from husky parts.
Is brands i should Hunt for or What brands Do Good aftermarked kits?

Best regards

Ben
 
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JeffGu

Well-Known Member
#6
Most guys just pull on the connecting rod and wiggle it around.. if there's no slop, it's probably ok... but if it feels loosey goosey or isn't running smooth on the crank, then the bearing or the crank may have got pounded too hard when the piston froze up. The friction from no oil can score up and damage more than just the piston and cylinder lining. Both rod bearings can damage the wrist pin and the crank from this. You can pull the lower rod bearing and look at them... the damage is usually as obvious as a scored cylinder lining. You can mic the crank to make sure it's in spec for diameter and didn't wear badly or get scored up. I've only seen that kind of damage on a saw that the owner let cool down after straight-gassing it... refilled with premix and went on using the saw until it died again and seized up. The saws are pretty tough and usually only the cylinder lining and piston/ring are damaged from straight-gassing.

Meteor piston/cylinder kits are.. depending on who you ask.. either great or junk. Just like the OEM parts. I know several saw builders who use them, and I've never had any trouble with them, myself.
The price of Stihl and Husky OEM P/C kits is ridiculous. The Meteor kits are lots cheaper. Pistons are made in Italy, they use Caber rings, and I'm not sure where they source their cylinders.

Maybe some of the saw builders who port performance saws will jump in with other options.
 
#7
Most guys just pull on the connecting rod and wiggle it around.. if there's no slop, it's probably ok... but if it feels loosey goosey or isn't running smooth on the crank, then the bearing or the crank may have got pounded too hard when the piston froze up. The friction from no oil can score up and damage more than just the piston and cylinder lining. Both rod bearings can damage the wrist pin and the crank from this. You can pull the lower rod bearing and look at them... the damage is usually as obvious as a scored cylinder lining. You can mic the crank to make sure it's in spec for diameter and didn't wear badly or get scored up. I've only seen that kind of damage on a saw that the owner let cool down after straight-gassing it... refilled with premix and went on using the saw until it died again and seized up. The saws are pretty tough and usually only the cylinder lining and piston/ring are damaged from straight-gassing.

Meteor piston/cylinder kits are.. depending on who you ask.. either great or junk. Just like the OEM parts. I know several saw builders who use them, and I've never had any trouble with them, myself.
The price of Stihl and Husky OEM P/C kits is ridiculous. The Meteor kits are lots cheaper. Pistons are made in Italy, they use Caber rings, and I'm not sure where they source their cylinders.

Maybe some of the saw builders who port performance saws will jump in with other options.
I put a Meteor kit in my 288 xp, which is ported and polished with exhaust done up and have had no issues at all. Originally the porting was done at Walkers saws on the island, but I sent my saw to a buddy ( hot saw hobbyist ) he said the porting was messy, there was poor compression so I gave it to him. he put the Meteor rebuild in after gussying up the cylinder and re porting. Now shes a beast! Has been for 3 years! gotta stand on the handle to start it!
 
#8
Thx for the replyes

Thx jeff, that sounds simple enoughf, ill Do that when time is right.

Meteor doesnt make a cylinder for the 560/562, only a piston Im afraid.

I did however find a website http://www.hlsproparts.com/default.asp
, does anybody have experience with this compagny?
Genuine Husqvarna cylinder and piston for 126 usd, a hell of alot cheaper than i have seen on European sites.

Offcourse shipping and import customs Will steal some of the sawings, But still a Good looking deal to me.

Other options are Very wellcome!

Would love a ported saw, just isnt really a Big thing here, so i dont Know where to get it done.
Except, if i buy a cylinder in the states and have it shipped to a saw modder in the states.

Is it possible to get a Good result of a porting, if the saw modder only has cylinder and piston in his shop?

Best regards

Ben
 
#9
Thx for the replyes

Thx jeff, that sounds simple enoughf, ill Do that when time is right.

Meteor doesnt make a cylinder for the 560/562, only a piston Im afraid.

I did however find a website http://www.hlsproparts.com/default.asp
, does anybody have experience with this compagny?
Genuine Husqvarna cylinder and piston for 126 usd, a hell of alot cheaper than i have seen on European sites.

Offcourse shipping and import customs Will steal some of the sawings, But still a Good looking deal to me.

Other options are Very wellcome!

Would love a ported saw, just isnt really a Big thing here, so i dont Know where to get it done.
Except, if i buy a cylinder in the states and have it shipped to a saw modder in the states.

Is it possible to get a Good result of a porting, if the saw modder only has cylinder and piston in his shop?

Best regards

Ben
Absolutely! A good modder can do a complete number on a used saw! You send em the saw with no parts, they strip it and examine the parts and order what’s needed. Then they do the intake and exhaust ports, maybe remove the element in the exhaust and open the pipes up. It comes back to you with greater compression, higher revs, more chain pulling power and way friken louder! The last part may not be a good thing in a city? You can still port and polish without the exhaust mod and still see a fairly good increase in performance.
All that said, new saws these days come out of the factory more than capable and more often than not the deciding factor in performance boils down to how tuned the user keeps his or her chain!
 
#10
Hello Stephen, Thx for replying.

I wasnt clear enoughf on What i meant.
I havent heard about any saw modders in Denmark, where me and my saw lives so its hard for me to hand in my saw to a Good tuner.

i gotta order a new cylinder and piston so if i order from a us shop and get it shipped to a saw modder, is it possible to have it modded well without having the rest of the saw in the shop for measuring and so forth?

Im sure i Can mod the exhaust myself with a little guidance if i wish to, and my machine mechanic Will be able to put it together for me.

Best regards

Ben
 
#11
Yes, if I understand you correctly, can you have the top end modded and shipped to you for installation? The thing about porting is what you are trying achieve is maximizing the intake time and exhaust time during the stroke as well as clean up the milling and casting flaws for better flow. If they don't know the stroke length, they cant determine how much material to remove. What can happen is an overlap of the exhaust and the intake ports if too much is removed. I would say that without he bottom end it would be guessing. There needs to be a hotsaw guy in your country. Look up loggers sports in your area, I know you have them there because my friends go there to participate, and find a few local contacts there or in Sweden.They should be able to point you to a builder.
 
#12
Yes Thats What i meant.

Okay if i Do so, Best case Im gonna end up with a conservative porting, worst case Will be a useless cylinder.

You are right, there is some Racing saws for Timber sports, just havent run into people using modded saws for work here. Sweden might be different, ill find a swedish forum to lurk on for a bit.

Thx

Ben
 
#14
What the fuck, pardon my french and all that, took my saw apart and the pictures below is What Met my eyes.

Some kind of burned plastic was stück in the crank/rod, its melted onto the piston side, top and cumbustion chamber.

Other than that cylinder Walls looks Good to my untrained eyes, piston Walls same, crank and rod doesnt jiggie with it, seems fine, Nothing is blue and crank,rod, cylinder is still greased.

Again this is to my un trained eyes.

But did i straight gas my saw and Can i save piston and cylinder or do You Think i still need new one?

26694D11-96A9-4467-A681-31A51A0B90FB.jpeg B5D78A7D-7BD4-4B58-B3E5-87648CD56458.jpeg B5D78A7D-7BD4-4B58-B3E5-87648CD56458.jpeg F021DD53-04EC-4579-B265-5BA7A221CFF8.jpeg E31EDE30-DA23-4C83-BCF5-7375026F3F2F.jpeg
 
#16
Yes that shit has covered the ring so its stuck, seems like a Good time to change Them.
Yeah i Will take it completely apart and clean it throughly.

I hope some bad ass chain Angel has made a how to assemble a 560 video and put it on youtube, if no:muyenojado::muyenojado::muyenojado:.

I also found some wire that needs to be changed as its isolation is work through.

Any Bright ideers on how to remove all that melted plastic from piston Walls and cumbustion chamber?

Best regards

Ben
 
#17
You can likely just pry it off with a knife. Try not to scratch the cylinder wall though, be gentle! Blow the whole saw out, then gas off the parts, replace any worn or damaged stuff, re assemble. You can photograph the dis assembly and just reverse the process. While your at it, you may want to shine the guts up- do a porting job on it?
 
#20
I have no clue What it is, so it could be a gasket. Of some sort.

I dont Think i Can get it of the piston side with a knife without doing some damage, its no biggie if i have to buy a piston.

I would love to Do a “Real” port job on it, But dont know alot about it. was thinking of cleaning casting ridges and Matching exhaust port to heatshield, gasket n exhaust. The simple stuff i Can so with dremmel and a drill press.

Thx for the tip, ill have a look on ope.

Best regards

Ben
 
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