How do you attach your chainsaw to your lanyard & saddle?

Worthaug

Well-Known Member
#23
Teufelberger AntiShock to the back ring on the TM with the supplied double action, single locking carabiner. The working end is girthed to a triple action, double locking DMM O which clips into the metal ring of the 540. The plastic ring on the saw is what it gets hung from on a DMM Vault on either hip. I can stow and deploy with one hand and either hand. This is my pruning setup and the lanyard is a very nice length extended and compressed for pruning. My removal setup uses the TreeStuff lanyard and I have the buckle loops on the common saws. I ground the stock ring off it and installed old Petzl Ring Opens just forward of the buckles on my 200, one handed stowage and deployment. This lanyard’s stationary end clips to the belt material hole just behind the right D because it is shorter. Rear handled saws hang from the rear or too handle in the Vault depending on bar length. The rear attachment and longer lanyard allow both side use for pruning positioning which tends to be more conditional whereas during removals on spurs it is much easier to position yourself in a repeatable manner for cuts and the saw is more one sided.


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#24
I have a old hitch cord looped and tucked in the webbing of my treemotion. Basically a bridge in the rear from right butt cheek to left butt cheek. I find this helps to switch from right hand to left hand cutting keeping full length on either side.
The laynard it’s self is home made out of 1” webbing. It has a big ring about 4” from where it attaches to the saw for easy stowing, and then a loop for a locking biner to the bridge. I’m not personally very concerned with saw snatch, but I’ve had a few roll outs resulting in dropped saws.
I have been thinking about this idea and how I could incorporate this to my fairly new TM. Your definitely on to something pretty great! I think this will become something you see on other saddles in the near future. I like my saw to always be tethered with the breakaway option. On the occasion when unhook my saw to make a cut it becomes really easy to forget you just unhooked the saw. Don’t ask me how I know this ! Thanks for sharing your idea Evo


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evo

Well-Known Member
#25
I have been thinking about this idea and how I could incorporate this to my fairly new TM. Your definitely on to something pretty great! I think this will become something you see on other saddles in the near future. I like my saw to always be tethered with the breakaway option. On the occasion when unhook my saw to make a cut it becomes really easy to forget you just unhooked the saw. Don’t ask me how I know this ! Thanks for sharing your idea Evo


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I can't take full credit. A few years ago there was a thread on this, I just simply liked the concept, and adapted it to work on my saddle. Looking at it closer I took the hitch cord apart and respliced it shorter, I'd guess it's about 16-18"
 
#26
I use a Teufelberger anti-shock lanyard. When not in use, the ring on the lanyard is clipped to a Petzl Caritool on my New Tribe Onyx. The end of the lanyard is attached to a loop on the left rear with an ISC Gator
 
#27
Hello all,

I have been climbing for about 5 years (2 recreation and past 3 in production). I have never felt that my chainsaw connection is great, but it does work. I climb with a Treemotion and use a Husqvarna T540xp with the rear plastic loop on the back. I clip my Buckingham tear away lanyard to the small metal loop and back it up with a DMM micro carabiner. The other end of my lanyard is girth hitched to the back green ring of my Treemotion. Overall I feel like this is a decent set up for me, but it does seem to feel clunky and gets caught up in my saddle and in tight spots in the tree.

Does anyone else have recommendations to improve my setup or please just shoot me pictures of what your set up is!

Thank you.
Don't clip, clips suck,
Jeff
 
#28
I recently acquired and use the reecoil full reach lanyard for my top handle. I love the amount it stretches, because with my other lanyard I'd always have to move where it's attached while working for that extra length.

I attach the lanyard to the saw using the top handle configuration. This keeps the saw close to my hip to avoid snags, swings, and chewing up my boots/pants. I use a wiregate accessory biner for the connection to a small caritool on my left hip (which is also where I have my handsaw), although I am thinking a screw gate would be better than the wiregate due to too many gates interfacing with each other. I use a locking carabineer to attach the terminal end of the lanyard to a rear loop on my saddle. I have plans to replace this carabineer with a swivel snap, connecting them with a soft shackle or split ring, because I'll sometimes get twists in the lanyard. If my saw gets stuck in a falling log I'm hoping the accessory loop of my saddle or swivel snap would fail soon enough to prevent catastrophy.

For heavier, rear-handled saws I use a regular ring-n-snap lanyard that I'll be connecting to my right side with my new dmm vault, terminated to a side accessory loop.
 
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therianclimber

Well-Known Member
#29
I've always liked the Buckingham bungee tearaway lanyard with compact biners (autocorrect changed this to boners... awkward :whistle:) on each end. Perfect length for me and they're crazy durable.

Shembiner, they're pretty great.

Lately I've been using this hillbilly MS200T hack. All it's missing is the camo duct tape, but it's slick to use. I had this hammer holster that I originally used for a hatchet when felling until I modified a tape measure holster to hold it more securely. I've tried rings and biners in the past for quick on and off the harness but nothing compares. This provides a huge slot to slide into the shembiner or a snap.

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