HH2 Hitch Length

Bob Bob

Well-Known Member
This timestamp video should give you a good look at the cam teeth on the SAKA mini.

I've only had problems with cheap-no-name-brand ebay ascenders picking rope due to excessively sharp teeth. I've never had a problem with CMI or Petzl teeth causing damage with normal usage.

Also I've never felt the need for a back-up tether when using the HH1 I own. Dial that hitch in at low altitude and your confidence will soar!

 
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LordFarkwad

Active Member
This timestamp video should give you a good look at the cam teeth on the SAKA mini.

I've only had problems with cheap-no-name-brand ebay ascenders picking rope due to excessively sharp teeth. I've never had a problem with CMI or Petzl teeth causing damage with normal usage.

Also I've never felt the need for a back-up tether when using the HH1 I own. Dial that hitch in at low altitude and your confidence will soar!

Ah - it looks like that when the cam is really in the position of applying a lot of lateral squeezing pressure to the rope, the teeth are more orthogonal to the rope's direction, versus angled down into the rope.

Thank you.
 

LordFarkwad

Active Member
Okay - SAKA mini, Hitchhiker holster, and ISC Stryder are on their way.

I tried to make a neck tender for my HH2 a few days ago out of coathanger, but that went over like a fart in a diving helmet, as they say; geometry was such that it would 'catch' on the body of the HH2 and bend the wire loop out of shape, which would lead to more catching and bending, etc., etc. Figured the holster was the way to go...
 

Scratch

Member
I have the holster too, it works very well. I just use a bit of webbing as a chest harness, Works great but you could also use your lanyard over your shoulder.
 

LordFarkwad

Active Member
If I’m using the chest ascender and hitch, the HH2 isn’t used. Likewise, if using the HH2, the hitch and chest ascender aren’t used. The Oval VT hitch I use can be used to descend, unlike most other hitches.
The chest ascender pushes up the hitch when ascending, so another type of tender isn’t needed. There’s no sit back with it, and when not in use it is still a part of the suspenders to hold up the harness, don’t have to take off and store on harness if not in use.
Is there a definitive thread on the oval vt, other than the 'srt on a prusik' thread?
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
There is somewhere. It’s an excellent hitch, but has to have a longer hitch cord to be able to tie the overhand knot and the overhand knot has to be loosen to adjust it. I recently came upon another hitch that is much easier to tie and use. It performs similar to the Oval VT, perhaps breaks a little easier to descend, and can use standard length cords. The Oval VT is on the left and the new one left. The new one uses a smaller chunk of metal and the legs just twist in the back. Moving the ring adjusts the tension in the wraps. The sizes of the rope and cord determines what size ring, bow shackle, etc needs to be used.
3E3B20E1-925A-4C93-9D14-1132E722BB29.jpeg
The twisted section can’t elongate too far, like using an oval carabiner, as it will quickly start to bind up. The confined twist keeps this from happening.
 

LordFarkwad

Active Member
There is somewhere. It’s an excellent hitch, but has to have a longer hitch cord to be able to tie the overhand knot and the overhand knot has to be loosen to adjust it. I recently came upon another hitch that is much easier to tie and use. It performs similar to the Oval VT, perhaps breaks a little easier to descend, and can use standard length cords. The Oval VT is on the left and the new one left. The new one uses a smaller chunk of metal and the legs just twist in the back. Moving the ring adjusts the tension in the wraps. The sizes of the rope and cord determines what size ring, bow shackle, etc needs to be used.
View attachment 58150
The twisted section can’t elongate too far, like using an oval carabiner, as it will quickly start to bind up. The confined twist keeps this from happening.
You have a name for the one on the right, and/or a thread? Man, that's nice.

I have some small aluminum DMM rings that I wonder if they'd work for this.
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
I’m naming it the Stitch Hitch, no other thread, this is it’s first appearance. It came up while I was trying out how a stitch plate would work for the Oval VT. Replaced the overhand knot with the twist in the back.
28120DBB-D370-46FF-97BC-C83C421CA521.jpeg
B663E650-B60C-4E8C-A424-E6C417251B93.jpeg
Some things that can be used. You might have to go with the large ring, or the thin 1 1/2” ring from hardware store would be a cheaper way to try it out.
This might be the most secure and safest way to go!
F8DA1B03-461A-45F6-98D4-73421511AB20.jpeg
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Like the Oval VT, this hitch can be tended by itself. A pulley or the small double eye strap really makes it easier, though.

I use my lanyard SRT, but it took me awhile to figure out to put a hitch like this on it.
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Just notice you do the wraps opposite of how I do. It seems to work the same, but requires a little more cord length, and it lengthens the hitch slightly, definitely a variation.( Another specimen for the collection!)
 

LordFarkwad

Active Member
My new setup next to my old setup...thanks Brocky.

View attachment 58170
Is the advantage of using this on your lanyard, that you can now descend on your lanyard in SRT form if need be?

Also, are you using the pulley (in the top setup) in lieu of the short section of cordage that Brocky uses in his, to maintain the tighter radius - and thus, friction - around the bottom of the ring?

Edit: I keep reading your name in my head as "the aryan climber". I can't stop seeing it!
 
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LordFarkwad

Active Member
Just notice you do the wraps opposite of how I do. It seems to work the same, but requires a little more cord length, and it lengthens the hitch slightly, definitely a variation.( Another specimen for the collection!)
Brocky, do you have any idea of the relative distribution of stress/weight/heat/etc. with this hitch? Just wondering how one goes about evaluating a hitch's suitability for SRT descent.

You reckon it's best to use this with steel hardware?
 

therianclimber

Well-Known Member
It's going to take some experimenting. I found a pretty smooth combination with Beeline but it's not as compacts as I'd like. I added another braid at the top of the ring to prevent the top wraps from locking up. Pictures don't seem to be uploading right now for me...

And no I am not a Nazi, that was just an unfortunate name I came up with in my youth when I thought being a good climber meant turning into an animal in the tree. Not sure if I can change the name as it seems to rubs folks the wrong way.
 

LordFarkwad

Active Member
It's going to take some experimenting. I found a pretty smooth combination with Beeline but it's not as compacts as I'd like. I added another braid at the top of the ring to prevent the top wraps from locking up. Pictures don't seem to be uploading right now for me...

And no I am not a Nazi, that was just an unfortunate name I came up with in my youth when I thought being a good climber meant turning into an animal in the tree. Not sure if I can change the name as it seems to rubs folks the wrong way.
haha so I'm not the only one who has said that about the name? Man, there are more messed up folks in the world than I give it credit for...

Don't change it, I'm just messing widja.

I'll have to play with that hitch to digest everything you are saying about it...
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
The hitch has to release easy to descend, easy to control when descending, grab when the hitch is released, and doesn’t bind up with use. The finish below the wraps shouldn’t be too tight that it doesn’t allow the wraps to grab.

Beeline doesn’t work good with either hitch. The cover is too loose and wedges between the cord and rope. HRC and Icetail also wouldn’t work for me.
 
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