I've started using this small one I got from Wesspur, tied to a 30' piece of 11mm, going between fir tops. I traverse by letting off my climbing knot and pulling myself over with an ascender and tether on the line to the grappel. Came across a 25' gap today without much difficulty. Any tips of this kind of thing?
grappling hook
- Thread starter jeff_r
- Start date
- Location
- Watertown, WI
pics of the grapple? is it the rock exotica black one? those are like 200 bills aren't they?
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
the New Tribe Grapnel sounds like what you are talking about? is that so? http://www.newtribe.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=423 $25
Are you relying on the strength of the throw line or are you installing the climb line for the ascender. I know that an ascender wouldn't work on a throw line, just wasn't quite understanding your technique.
Are you relying on the strength of the throw line or are you installing the climb line for the ascender. I know that an ascender wouldn't work on a throw line, just wasn't quite understanding your technique.
- Location
- tulsa oklahoma
hes simply relying on the grapple 2 hang a limb. I do it as well at times. It works gr8.
D.W.H
D.W.H
- Location
- St. Paul, MN
I had a chance to use this technique quite a lot last Summer. Custom made hook. Be sure of your new (temporary) anchor point! Coolest thing I learned was manipulating the hook by rolling the rope between your palms. Also, often times it worked out better to descend a bit to find an open spot in the limbs of the target tree. Firs are a bit dense at the top, eh!
P.S. I preferred 8 to 10mm line for the traverse.
My hook was a smooth, steel, J shaped affair. Not the grappling or "Grapnel" hook.
P.S. I preferred 8 to 10mm line for the traverse.
My hook was a smooth, steel, J shaped affair. Not the grappling or "Grapnel" hook.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
now that I reread more closely, its the big folding job, eh?
Its the compact model on this page - only 3 arms, and I think 4 would be better. . .
http://wesspur.com/misc/tree-climbing-gadgets.html
http://wesspur.com/misc/tree-climbing-gadgets.html
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Rather than pull yourself over try swinging into the new location by releasing your hitch slowly as if descending.
You will lose a little height but the transition will be quicker and smoother.
The hitch on the 11mm stays stationary unless you really need to adjust your position.
You will lose a little height but the transition will be quicker and smoother.
The hitch on the 11mm stays stationary unless you really need to adjust your position.
- Location
- Fayetteville AR
You're in BC try to get with some of those toppers for helilogging outfits. They call this clawing. I want to learn this real bad but I haven't been able to get someone with exp to show the exact technique.
South coast standing stem is one company in BC they were on heliloggers www.standingstem.com. Maybe since you are there you could get them to show you. If you do PLEASE post it here!
South coast standing stem is one company in BC they were on heliloggers www.standingstem.com. Maybe since you are there you could get them to show you. If you do PLEASE post it here!
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
- Location
- Watertown, WI
reverse some of that order tho, grapple in and traverse over, safety in, pull rope, and then work
- Location
- Fayetteville AR
What I wasn't sure is if the claw was hooked on the branch or over and around the rope. I experimented a little with some homemade prototypes and didn't really find something that hooked like I liked. It had a tendency to roll off the branch sometimes. Any pics of the ones they use (I've saw the new tribe ones) but from what I've read just about all the guys that really do it make their own.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
The ideal location is on the branch next to the trunk.
Keep the swing steady and fluid without jerking or stopping.
Keep the swing steady and fluid without jerking or stopping.
- Location
- AZ
This grappling hook looks really cool, but not sure it should be used for whats discussed here
http://countycomm.com/hook.htm
http://countycomm.com/hook.htm
rawtree
Participating member
- Location
- Mid Atlantic
- Location
- Fayetteville AR
Here is a video that answered my question. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yz9ZynOIZp4&feature=channel
This guy has some other cool vids too.
This guy has some other cool vids too.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
[ QUOTE ]
Simple and effective!
[/ QUOTE ]
Bob,
Do you have any pics of the grapple in deployed position? I remember seeing other versions of the grapple without the bungee piece.
Simple and effective!
[/ QUOTE ]
Bob,
Do you have any pics of the grapple in deployed position? I remember seeing other versions of the grapple without the bungee piece.
rawtree
Participating member
- Location
- Mid Atlantic
Attachment: Hooking transfer w/ ropeman cam and single line footlock assist.
I'm working on replacing the bungee cord and will post that at a later date.
Also great for:
1.) Pulling out hangers from below you.
2.) Picking up the chainsaw or polesaw you forgot to attach to the end of your line after you're 20 feet (or whatever length you have attached to the hook) into your assent.
3.) Pulling a small tree, that you need to prune, to your position and 2 hand cutting while the cam holds it in position.
4.) Hooking the crotch of a branch that you need to cut, with 2 hands (right), so that it's temporarily held until you can chuck it with precision ( I NEVER drop anything from the tree without aiming for a target, it's good practice; heads up ken! Oh yeah, we're not allowed to say "heads up", I missed that class). It's great for those heavier limbs that you don't want to take straight to hand in order to prevent the muscle strain/back strain you might experience trying to undercut with the chainsaw and top cut with the handsaw and hold directly with the free hand. Typically, I put the cam 'biner straight to my lower SportJack 'biner and tension as needed (yeah, I've climbed with the Jack for 12 years now; I'm lazy, it's embarrassing but I still get the job done). And you wonder why I had to leave ArborMasters ...
5.) The hook can be used as a temporary triangulation point and/or adjustable (to the length of rope attached to it) re-direct. With both uses it is somewhat retrievable from a distance.
6.) It can be used as an equipment station for holding chainsaw, pole or whatever else. Unlike a sling and a "biner", you can just grab the hook and move to another limb as you maneuver to your next position.
**ON A SIDE NOTE, I never did get Epple's permission to post that pic. I need to ask the manufactures out there not to steal his idea without giving him some credit/royalty (fat chance!). Prove me wrong and call the guy up and order a couple hundred of them. Ronny is a multiple time German TCC with possibly a European title in there somewhere. He's very photogenic and would be a great endorsement in someone's catalog. Anyway, I'm sure he understands how the climbers/riggers are and that, after seeing the tool, they're likely to make some version on their own (the port-a-wrap and bollard are perfect examples). That's just how we are (I should say, you are, because I'm mechanically brain-dead - but I can keep my chainsaws running). Anyway, what's done is done.
**Okay, talked with Ronny, got spanked, he's over it, moven on...
For more information please contact Ronny Epple at:
ronny@baumkletterteam.com
New contact number: 01149-171-17-420-63
I'm working on replacing the bungee cord and will post that at a later date.
Also great for:
1.) Pulling out hangers from below you.
2.) Picking up the chainsaw or polesaw you forgot to attach to the end of your line after you're 20 feet (or whatever length you have attached to the hook) into your assent.
3.) Pulling a small tree, that you need to prune, to your position and 2 hand cutting while the cam holds it in position.
4.) Hooking the crotch of a branch that you need to cut, with 2 hands (right), so that it's temporarily held until you can chuck it with precision ( I NEVER drop anything from the tree without aiming for a target, it's good practice; heads up ken! Oh yeah, we're not allowed to say "heads up", I missed that class). It's great for those heavier limbs that you don't want to take straight to hand in order to prevent the muscle strain/back strain you might experience trying to undercut with the chainsaw and top cut with the handsaw and hold directly with the free hand. Typically, I put the cam 'biner straight to my lower SportJack 'biner and tension as needed (yeah, I've climbed with the Jack for 12 years now; I'm lazy, it's embarrassing but I still get the job done). And you wonder why I had to leave ArborMasters ...
5.) The hook can be used as a temporary triangulation point and/or adjustable (to the length of rope attached to it) re-direct. With both uses it is somewhat retrievable from a distance.
6.) It can be used as an equipment station for holding chainsaw, pole or whatever else. Unlike a sling and a "biner", you can just grab the hook and move to another limb as you maneuver to your next position.
**ON A SIDE NOTE, I never did get Epple's permission to post that pic. I need to ask the manufactures out there not to steal his idea without giving him some credit/royalty (fat chance!). Prove me wrong and call the guy up and order a couple hundred of them. Ronny is a multiple time German TCC with possibly a European title in there somewhere. He's very photogenic and would be a great endorsement in someone's catalog. Anyway, I'm sure he understands how the climbers/riggers are and that, after seeing the tool, they're likely to make some version on their own (the port-a-wrap and bollard are perfect examples). That's just how we are (I should say, you are, because I'm mechanically brain-dead - but I can keep my chainsaws running). Anyway, what's done is done.
**Okay, talked with Ronny, got spanked, he's over it, moven on...
For more information please contact Ronny Epple at:
ronny@baumkletterteam.com
New contact number: 01149-171-17-420-63
Attachments
- Location
- St. Paul, MN
The Epple Hook is what I have used. Great tool.
