chipper PTO leaking

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
So I have owned a woodchuck wc17 for a couple of months now, after a few initial repairs to the feed wheels it's been running great. Yesterday I had it running, about 15 mins before I finished chipping it shut itself off and I noticed a steady stream of oil leaking from the PTO. It looks like used motor oil but the dipstick says that my oil is full. I am no expert with PTOs but I have begun the process of disassembly to diagnose the problem. Has anyone had this happen before? What should I look for? And is there a safety switch that would shut the engine off due to a low fluid?

Its an older woodchuck wc17 with a 4b3 cummins diesel engine. Rockford PTO

For what it's worth the engine will not crank over at this point. There is a solenoid that clicks when I try to start it, not the starter solenoid, but a second one that is mounted on the engine compartment.

Any help would be appreciated. I will be digging into it more tomorrow to find the source of the leak.
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Definitely the rear main seal. Shut it down before it causes your clutch to burn out.
I assume you mean that the oil on the clutch will burn it up? It there something I should clean it with before reassembling?
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Will do. Thank you.

I will be working on it soon, so hopefully I'll have something to report back in a while
 

evo

Well-Known Member
X2 on break/clutch cleaner. When taking the clutch on and off it helps to get some long bolts the same thread and diameter as the mounting bolts. Cut the heads off. Take the top two bolts off (10 o’clock and 2 o’clock) first and install your headless long bolts. Remove the remaining, you will be able to slide the clutch off on the two long headless bolts. Helps a ton.
Hope this is clear, let me know if you have questions
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
I appreciate the help guys, and yes @evo that is clear. You use the two headless bolts as alignment pins, that's a good idea.

Ive got the clutch off at this point and the flywheel. I believe I see the culprit and I know you basically pry the seals out with a screwdriver however they'll come out (correct me if I'm wrong) but before I go at it with a hammer and screwdriver I want to make sure I am actually looking at that main seal. This is it with the crude arrow pointing at it, correct?
 

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evo

Well-Known Member
Looks like it to me.. I’d clean it up a bit with wd-40 and perhaps have a friend turn the flywheel by hand to see where the moving part is (if I had any hesitation). What engine is it?
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Ive continued cleaning with brake cleaner and rags and got some numbers off it. Hoping to find a replacement at the local parts store.
 

evo

Well-Known Member
Crossing my fingers for you. I hope the crank shaft hasn’t worn a groove in. And then getting it started... but you know that
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Parts are on order. Found the seal at orielly's for about $50. I'll remove the old one later this week when the replacement comes in.
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
@Jehinten you'll need to pull the bell housing off.
Are you referring to the 8 bolts that are in the last picture? It looks as if I've got it down to the correct parts, unless I'm mistaken. That housing with the 8 bolts is also the part of the engine that has the two rear engine mounts.
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
Thanks! That info will most definitely be helpful. Looks like I'll need to support the rear of the engine and take off one more part.
 
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