The hitch is basically a 4-2 VT with the second braid being an overhand knot, and an oval carabiner added, aluminum or steel work the same. View attachment 48132
First, do the four wraps, or round turns and the braid in front. You can add the carabiner now, or if it's a ring it has to be now.
Second, turn the hitch 180 degrees, bring the ends together and make sure they are the same length.
Third, tie the overhand. To tie it, the eye legs have to be flexible and compact to end up with a short hitch. Tied eyes will need a large loop for them to go through resulting in longer legs. Spliced eyes would also have to be longer because they don't bend for a few inches, again resulting in a longer hitch. Sewn eyes,or tying the eyes after the hitch make a shorter hitch.
Insert the carabiner in the front braid and bring the eyes to the front through the carabiner, and clip as usual to your harness.
The position of the overhand determines how much friction for the hitch to function. If it's lower, it will slide easier but not grab as reliably. Higher up, closer to the wraps, it will grab each time, but requires more effort to move. I have found that the hitch needs to be a little tight at first, as the overhand knot will tighten more with use and lengthen slightly.
The Bailout, with sewn eyes, on half inch rope needs to be 36" to tie the overhand.
The soft shackle hitch cord doesn't have this problem as it is flexible and can make a very short connection without a carabiner.
Sorry for the derail, and I don't climb with a rope wrench so I haven't tried it. But I have seen a climber who unclips his wrench after a change over and clips it to the other leg of rope. This also eliminates you having to take the carabiner out that holds your hitchclimber and hitch cord (or any other micro pulley)