Breaking mini carabiners on footloop of SAKA mini?

LordFarkwad

Well-Known Member
You gonna use something stronger to connect to the foot loop now?
I may switch the bottom biner to one of those slightly larger Metolius-looking ones, but right now I'm going to keep an XSRE on there and see if just girth-hitching and or making a corner trap solves it. I'm sure either of those will, but I also would like to get a minute of footage and see if it's something I'm doing to exacerbate the issue too.
 

LordFarkwad

Well-Known Member
Haha maybe I'll regret it but it's difficult to see how - I could probably spend an hour climbing with any one of you dudes and double my knowledge.
 

Birdyman88

Active Member
Maybe use the little 4kn for the bungee and get something beefier for foot loop... looks like Swingdude is using the 22kn on the foot.
4kN break is 880 lbs break. 88 lb WLL at 10%. I agree to put them on the bungee, and not the foot strap side. I use 25kN for the foot side and some really small cheap aluminum things for the bungee.

Also there is a difference between resting your weight on connector and stepping your weight on the connector. The latter is treated like an impulse and the max force is different than a resting force. Just like negative blocking a load.
 

LordFarkwad

Well-Known Member
Also there is a difference between resting your weight on connector and stepping your weight on the connector. The latter is treated like an impulse and the max force is different than a resting force. Just like negative blocking a load.
Gotcha - and that was part of my suspicion that the ascender getting caught (creating slack) could potentially play a role in this breakage, due to the subsequent step into a slacked loop and associated impulse load to the biner.

Man...880lbs, or thereabouts tho? That is fantastic, especially considering that both arms and opposite leg are bearing part of my bodyweight still, at the time this impulse is imparted (that is to say that the total load is still distributed amongst other load-bearing elements along the rope; I'm not solely climbing on that one knee ascender, or even both feet).
 

JeffGu

Well-Known Member
Easy corner traps can be made out of ordinary surgical tubing... FeeBay or Cramazon always have it... I buy 1/4" ID and 3/8" ID in BLACK (better UV resistance) and use the smaller tubing for smaller 'biners (LEFT in pic) and the larger for quickdraw 'biners and larger (RIGHT in pic)...

You make them by cutting off a piece about 1-1/2" long and then squeezing it flat and using scissors to cut a half-moon cutout in the middle.

RubberTubingCornertrap.jpg
 

LordFarkwad

Well-Known Member
Regular ol' girth hitched the biner on the foot loop - works like a boss. It is held very securely in place, preventing it from changing orientation.

Couldn't get anyone to come shoot video of me, but I was all kinds of mucked up anyway, so no loss; foot ascender needed to be adjusted since I was climbing in new boots (Scafell Lites that actually fit). The additional girth of the boot ended up putting the ascender in a nose-up attitude, which caused it to not bite the rope consistently (rope would slide through when I applied weight due to cam being pressed open). Toe-slightly-down orientation helped it catch, as did loosening the bottom foot strap so the ascender sat higher on the boot and in a more level attitude.
 

LordFarkwad

Well-Known Member
So, of interest here, potentially, and would like to hear some of y'all's opinions/experiences/feedback...

I am using an ISC Stryder foot ascender, and had the issue described yesterday, wherein the rope would slide through the ascender as I placed my weight on it, due - I think - to the angle the rope was taking through the ascender. Pointing my toe more downward fixes it, but doesn't feel great/right.

Here's a screen cap from WesSpur's photo of the Stryder, where you can see plainly that in order to angle the shell parallel to the rope, with how it's oriented on the boot in the photo, the toe would need to be pointed downward. Otherwise, the rope stands less a chance of engaging the teeth of the cam, and more a chance of pressing on the top of the cam, which would open the cam up. This is exactly the way it wants to lay on my boot. Maybe that's a fitment issue, and I simply need to move the straps around or play with their lengths (move the rear one upwards on the heel).

1.png

Now, check the CT foot ascender out - the way the rope channel lays vertical, along the natural lay of the rope. IMO, that seems like it would be more conducive to the cam grabbing instead of running a chance of being pressed down upon by the rope and opened up.

2.png
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
So, of interest here, potentially, and would like to hear some of y'all's opinions/experiences/feedback...

I am using an ISC Stryder foot ascender, and had the issue described yesterday, wherein the rope would slide through the ascender as I placed my weight on it, due - I think - to the angle the rope was taking through the ascender. Pointing my toe more downward fixes it, but doesn't feel great/right.

Here's a screen cap from WesSpur's photo of the Stryder, where you can see plainly that in order to angle the shell parallel to the rope, with how it's oriented on the boot in the photo, the toe would need to be pointed downward. Otherwise, the rope stands less a chance of engaging the teeth of the cam, and more a chance of pressing on the top of the cam, which would open the cam up. This is exactly the way it wants to lay on my boot. Maybe that's a fitment issue, and I simply need to move the straps around or play with their lengths (move the rear one upwards on the heel).

View attachment 61582

Now, check the CT foot ascender out - the way the rope channel lays vertical, along the natural lay of the rope. IMO, that seems like it would be more conducive to the cam grabbing instead of running a chance of being pressed down upon by the rope and opened up.

View attachment 61583
thanks for highlighting that, I was going to get a Stryder, mainly becazse of the removable and supposedly foot-operable catch. Might go for the CT instead.
How do you like the Stryder other than the angle?
 

LordFarkwad

Well-Known Member
thanks for highlighting that, I was going to get a Stryder, mainly becazse of the removable and supposedly foot-operable catch. Might go for the CT instead.
How do you like the Stryder other than the angle?
Besides the angle (and heretofore, let's be clear, I've not had an issue with the rope not catching. I think it relates to a technique that is shifting, exacerbated by the boots and how the device sits on the boot), the Stryder is great. Rope stays in the thing solidly, which is more than I can say for 1/2" Vortex in the Notch Jet Step. It would jump out multiple times per ascent with that thing. Kind of annoying. Not sure if anyone else has the same issue with the NJS, but that's what got it bagged, for me.

I'm going to try a Climbing Innovations Footie and a Climbing Technologies Quick-Step and see if those solve the issue.

Also - disclaimer - this is all coming from a climbing layman. Maybe the angle has jack to do with how often the rope doesn't engage the cam's teeth. But, it seems highly coincidental that angling the foot differently solves the issue.
 

climbstihl

Well-Known Member
Besides the angle (and heretofore, let's be clear, I've not had an issue with the rope not catching. I think it relates to a technique that is shifting, exacerbated by the boots and how the device sits on the boot), the Stryder is great. Rope stays in the thing solidly, which is more than I can say for 1/2" Vortex in the Notch Jet Step. It would jump out multiple times per ascent with that thing. Kind of annoying. Not sure if anyone else has the same issue with the NJS, but that's what got it bagged, for me.

I'm going to try a Climbing Innovations Footie and a Climbing Technologies Quick-Step and see if those solve the issue.

Also - disclaimer - this is all coming from a climbing layman. Maybe the angle has jack to do with how often the rope doesn't engage the cam's teeth. But, it seems highly coincidental that angling the foot differently solves the issue.
I think the angle is the likely cause, I know hand ascenders will disengage whe you pull back on the handle, twisting the entire thing the same direction as the stryder.
 
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