.

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Those of you running the original HH can further improve its tending by running the tail of the hitch cord through the lower slot. It will limit the throw and tighten up the tending. The HH2 has shorter slots designed in already so this will not work with it.
2015-01-09 08.03.33_resized.jpg
 

diogenes

Member
When the hh and biner are kinked or not lined up adequately, the rope gets bound up and you can't tend slack.
Ok, I read your first question incorrectly. Must have been tired. Yes, it helps keep everything aligned if you don't mind the extra hardware.
 

fireman33

Member
When the hh and biner are kinked or not lined up adequately, the rope gets bound up and you can't tend slack.
Your right, when the Biner rotates and gets side loaded in the slot you can’t tend slack and it’s a pain, and no the pulley doesn’t help in the fact that it will still move in the slot. Pulley only help when everything is lined up properly.
 

theatertech87

Well-Known Member
For those of you running a pulley with your bridge ring, I tried it for the first time today. How are you making it easier to attach? by that i mean it's just awkward to line up the rope, the biner, the pulley and the ring all at the same time with only 2 hands. any tricks?
 

southsoundtree

Well-Known Member
Its awkward.
Don't just use your hands. You may have to use your abdomen a bit. Size of bridge ring make a difference.

Been meaning to try it with the larger diameter ring on my MCRS, to test for fit, but haven't had the pulley on hand.
I ordered a DMM Ring, but might have one too small in outer diameter. The pulley rubs my bridge.
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
For those of you running a pulley with your bridge ring, I tried it for the first time today. How are you making it easier to attach? by that i mean it's just awkward to line up the rope, the biner, the pulley and the ring all at the same time with only 2 hands. any tricks?
There is a trick. You need to gently squeeze the side plates of the pulley together until they grip the ring and the pulley will stay on without help. Doing that makes it incredibly easy to set things up.
 

Jehinten

Well-Known Member
For those of you running a pulley with your bridge ring, I tried it for the first time today. How are you making it easier to attach? by that i mean it's just awkward to line up the rope, the biner, the pulley and the ring all at the same time with only 2 hands. any tricks?
I saw somewhere, where a climber cut out part of the sideplates of the pulley, so that it could be clipped onto the HH carabiner.
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Cutting the pulley side plates works but not as well and is not as robust as just squeezing them. Get it right and the pulley snaps onto the ring making for fumble-free use.
 

vertigo

New Member
For those of you running a pulley with your bridge ring, I tried it for the first time today. How are you making it easier to attach? by that i mean it's just awkward to line up the rope, the biner, the pulley and the ring all at the same time with only 2 hands. any tricks?
I had fumbles with the fixed side plate pulleys, tried quite a few, found most to be awkwardly short and hard to twist while half on the carabiner getting the rope in and ring on. Tried a lanyard tending pulley with loose side plates, liked the easier installation but still a tad short (rope pinched on bridge ring sometimes due being squeezed in tight by short pulley). Tried an ISC RW pulley was okay but bulky and still a bit fiddly. Bought a Camp Andry pulley for the long side plates and gently straightened the originally curved plates in a vice, rounded off all the shear edges with a chainsaw file.

Two steps and No loose parts. One side stays on the carabiner permanently including while clipping/unclipping the bridge ring, (one step). The extra length and loose side plates makes swinging the free side on/off the rope and the biner real easy.(the other separate step).

Way easier than the ISC pulley to install, about twice as fast which is odd cos the ISC is only 6mm-1/4" shorter from pulley centre to the back of the biner hole but the hole is narrower there so doesn't give as much twist available which makes all the difference. Otherwise the ISC is a good choice as others have already noted earlier, and needs no modification and has much higher load rating..

So far no issues with the rope coming off the side of the pulley when being pulled on angles, wider-flared cheeks at the pulley end would probably increase the odd angle range though.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

DSMc

Well-Known Member
That is a nice looking pulley. Do you run it the way it is set up in the picture with the HH2's open side facing you?
 

vertigo

New Member
That is a nice looking pulley. Do you run it the way it is set up in the picture with the HH2's open side facing you?
Yes, only for the fact that the bungee neck- chest tether releases the carabiner in the lower slot way better as it's a direct pull in line with the direction of the lower slot :- lifting the carabiner away from the spine. With the HH the other way round the pull can be 90 degrees across the slot so not much disengagement force and a much harder pull to raise the HH. This may not be such an issue if I go get less stiff climbing line, I don't know yet, still experimenting, just trying to get unnecessary energy out of the system.
 
Last edited:

Muggs

Well-Known Member
I absolutely love my HH2 but the biner will not stop rotating, which binds everything up and then I can't tend slack. So frustrating. I'm running it the fixe pulley below, just like in Dave's picture above.
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
There is a technic needed with using the HH without a carabiner keeper of some sort. Simply put, it is the combining of movement with slack tending. This is actually how our climbing systems are designed to be used. Introducing slack above the HH is almost guaranteed to cross up the carabiner. Conversely, if as you move about the canopy you keep your line tended and tight by tending slack from under the HH, the carabiner almost never crosses. The same thing for rope walking, hand ascenders above the HH will introduce little ripples of slack that will screw things up.
Even so, I too will get the occasional out of alignment carabiner but it is not often and always self-corrects if loaded suddenly.
 
Last edited:

vertigo

New Member
I absolutely love my HH2 but the biner will not stop rotating, which binds everything up and then I can't tend slack. So frustrating. I'm running it the fixe pulley below, just like in Dave's picture above.
Does the carabiner rotate in either direction or always in the same direction ? If you turn the carabiner so the gate is on the other side still with nose down, does it rotate in the same direction as before or no ?
 

diogenes

Member
Using the hh2 with a swivel(pulley) has made it so much more better. I use the rook and it's perfect. Also, Sterling flex 8mm has been Great. Thank you Sterling, it's worked with 12.5 16 strand, db 11.7, 11.5, 5 wraps. And thanks @yoyoman for showing that rook/hh combo
 
Last edited:
I've been running the HH2 for a couple months now and really coming to enjoy it. Normal setup has been Vortex and ocean poly 10 mm, 5 wrap hitch. That's been really great, tends very well, but I was running my hitch a tad loose so I had to set it once in a while.

Today tried running velocity with 8 mm bee line. I like it but have to run the hitch nice and tight or it's too jerky descending. Gonna try a few hitches before settling but I am pretty happy so far after hearing the HH2 doesn't like 11 mm rope.

Also, just got around to adding a fixe pulley as a fair lead, same setup that most of you run. I've only got a little time on that particular setup so far, but my impression is that the system tends slack better without the pulley. Without the pulley, you tend slack upwards and the rope engages and pulls the carabiner upwards. I think this extra contact keeps the carabiner from side loading. I am pretty sure that the smaller diameter rope does allow for a little more lateral movement of the carabiner though.

I really prefer having the ability to take several arm lengths of rope between tending when coming in from a limb walk. I will probably do a comparison this weekend to see if the system performs better with/without a fair lead when using a 3to1 on limbwalks.
 

Cereal_Killer

Active Member
Hey guys, what's the smallest Ø rope the HH will run on?

Just got back from my first tree-camping outting with the HH and, well, let's just say the site access was MUCH more challenging than I was expecting and rope weight is now a larger concern of mine...


I'll only be using this for specialized remote-location recreation climbing so it doesn't have to run as smoothly as the 11.7mm and 1/2" lines I use already but I was hoping maybe I could run some 9 or 10mm kernmantle rope? I'd really like to hear if 9mm HTP would work, maybe with 6-7mm cord?
 
Top